JoeH

You posted two pictures of that part of the frame. I see the crack in one but not the other. It could be just how the light reflects off it, but it could be a crack as well.

Second thing I don't like: It looks like the frame has cracked where the base of the hydraulic ram rests on the frame. This would be a major red flag, truck needs a frame if it's actually cracked there. This is a high stress area, I don't think I'd be welding that spot back up.

Looks very clean, a minor amount of rust jacking just starting, but a lot of life left in that frame. Only thing I don't like is that they welded the lift axle to the frame in a few spots. Don't think that'll cause you any problems, but welding on frame rails is something you're not supposed to do...

Note that the rust cancer used to be part of the frame, so the worse it is the more material thickness you've lost from the frame.

there's some rusty frame pictures in this thread from a few years ago. Gives you an idea of what the rust can do. It pries the flanges apart until they crack horizontally, junking the frame. Twice now we've rehabbed trucks by pulling one side out at a time, separating, sand blasting and painting, reinstalling, then doing the other side. Its labor intensive and time consuming, but the end result is about as "like new" as you can get without dropping $20k for new rails.

That's a tough call, I personally wouldn't buy something without putting eyes on it, or having someone I know third party putting eyes on it. Where is the truck? Maybe you'll get lucky and someone on here lives nearby. Garbage trucks tend to be spec'd heavy, beefier trucks will hold up better and require less maintenance than an underspec'd truck.

Is that right on the steer axle? 24,000 lbs? Pictures please; how is the frame? That'll be the biggest concern is Rust Jacking. Also, I'd look for any hairline cracks in the frame behind the cab, where the vertical part of the frame rails bends to start the flange.

There will be a port on the top of the oil filter stand to tap in for your dash oil pressure gauge.

There's a few different arrangements for these. Id agree with Matt, scrounge around for a filter bracket from an endt-675/6. They at least come in 2 or 3 filter setups, it boils down to an option the truck was originally ordered with: ESI or ESI+ (extended service interval) the ESI oil pan was a mid size, with 2 oil filters. The ESI+ was the 3 filters with a huge oil pan, something around 56 quarts, 14 gallons. The bigger the pan/filter arrangement the more miles you could get per oil change. Not sure if there was a single filter option, all mine are 2 or 3 filter setups.

Would that be an ETECH 460 with the EUP's (electronic unit pumps) or a mechanical e7-460? I would think a '99 would be running an ETECH motor.

Short of selling it as a parts truck, the other option would be to buy another truck similar year and keep old one for parts.

Your tonka loader is in better condition than mine.

So put em in cars too.

Whys it gotta be either or? Why can't it be both?? Unqualified to run a Costco food court AND he believes in open borders!

Someone wrote on here a couple years ago that the engine model should be stamped into the block just forward of the injection pump.

What's the data plate say? It is a 2 valve, I'd bet E6 as the intake crossover tube and turbo/exhaust manifolds look a wee bit different than my endt-675's.

I've been watching them for a couple months now. In a world of insanity, they do bring common sense to the table. Where they may fail is getting product to market fast enough. Their plan is to make like 5 of these, put them out in the field to work out the bugs, which there probably won't be any, before ramping up production. By the time they get their production going their competition will already be making comparable setups. Me being me, I'd still buy one of theirs first. $90 generic headlight at the local parts store sure outweighs the $1,700 special one on back order. A lot of thought went into this rig. Air ride battery tray. Differentials mounted so the motors are protected in both forward and reverse. Easy/comfortable access to the dash and electronics. Fault code system that displays what the fault is instead of some B's code you need a $$$$$$ computer program to read.

That's a shame. Sedan driver fleeing the scene is weird, wonder what he did that caused the FedEx truck to hit that bridge pillar.

Smart enough? Maybe, maybe not. But if you keep hitting your head against the rock long enough, eventually it'll submit to your will... 💩

Havent dived into it yet. No obvious damage to any wiring yet, and the engine did fire up momentarily so the tow truck could turn the steering wheel, but it starved for fuel and didn't run for more than a few seconds. Driver side wiring appears ok, so does the passenger side. But the wiring runs up along the radiator grill and jumps into the cab right along the top of the charge air cooler. I'm concerned the cab "bruised" the wiring harness at the top of the CAC from the passenger side hinge breaking and the cab shoving back against things. At this point I'm just stressing out about unknowns.

I've never had to deal with vehicle harnesses. Because the cab ripped off the passenger side hinge, and all the harnesses go through the hinges, I'm concerned that there's damage to the harnesses. I have never had to deal with harnesses before. Depending on how things go, if I get the chance I'd love to just put new harnesses in, but I'm not sure how easy that is to do. Engine harness I could see being the easiest, but what about the harness that goes from the frame rails up into the cab?

I'm hopeful that a cab swap is really all this truck needs, apart from miscellaneous air and fuel lines that ripped. Biggest fear on the cab swap is wiring.

No, we pull the drive shaft off the damper wheel and pull the pump/mounting plate. I told the driver a few weeks ago "if you ever roll a truck over, GET THE ENGINE SHUT OFF IMMEDIATELY!" so that was playing through his head as he was going over. He was a bit disoriented, but says he found the key at some point quickly. It ripped fuel lines off at the lifter pump when the cab shoved back, so even if he didn't get it shut down quickly it would have starved out pretty quick. Wiring is my biggest fear. All the mechanical swap stuff is childs play. Out of curiosity, outside of the engine sensors and eecu, how many plugs does the engine harness have and what do they plug in to?

Assembling a list of books and dvd to order from Bergeys this week:

According to my vmac 3 book, the bulkhead plug connector for the MR is located on the driver side of the front crossmember. I see no indication of it being any different one year to the next.