JoeH

I died laughing when Trump called Joe "Brandon". Anyone else catch that?

It's entirely doable, but it's a big task.

2001 onward the EECU has been moved up on to the intake manifold area on the left side of the engine, a much safer location for it.

Stay away from highway trucks with the AC ASET motor. An ASET AI motor is ok, you can delete the internal EGR components and the computer is none the wiser. Cam has extra bumps on exhaust lobes to suck a little exhaust back in during intake stroke, and exhaust manifold/turbo are a bit restricted to create back pressure. There's a thread on here that goes through this motor very well with part numbers to replace. 1998-2000 the EECU is on the right side of the engine under the heat shields below the turbo. Fuel is pumped through it to keep it cool. If engine mounts are worn or you aren't careful when handling transmission removal/install the EECU can tap the frame and the EECU is junk from a minor dent. Personally I'd hunt for an E7 mechanical engine from the mid '90's. Fuel, air and you're good to go. No computers, no wiring. No computer gremlins and glitches to bother you.

Best thing is to have the donor truck on hand with all necessary parts, wiring, computers, etc. What year E7-460 are you planning to swap in? Worth mentioning, if it's vmaciii, 1998-2006 or so, the VECU and ABS module gets mounted by the passenger's feet, and the windshield gasket can fail and leak water and destroy VECU. It's not waterproof. If you're going to do all this headache then replace your windshields/gaskets, and make sure the sheet metal is good. Hope you have the trans to match the 460, that's a big jump from 300, need to make sure whatever trans you have has the torque rating to handle that engine. Also driveshaft. I've noticed on our Mack's, 300hp motors get a skinnier driveshaft that 350's and up. So you may want to check that too. Other than that, as long as you have a donor truck to supply engine mounts and miscellaneous brackets you should be good to go. But it's going to take a good bit of work.

On the old VIN system, RD is double frame I believe. A single frame would just be an R. We have a single frame R686ST under this VIN system. On the new VIN system, there is only an RD, and it's used for both single and double frames. I had a 2001 RD688ST, which was a single frame 400hp tractor with 38k air ride. We also have 2 other RD's on the new VIN system, an '88 RD690S and a '95 RD688S. Both are double frame triaxle with 44k rears. The 690 is an EM6-300L maxidynes, the 688 is an E7-350.

https://www.tillmantools.com/Kent-Moore-J-44004-King-Pin-Cap-Tool-Kit-p/kmtj-44004.htm Joey got me straightened out! I was thinking 22002, but it was 44004. This is the kit my local dealer lent me, it was fantastic. Might buy this set next time I have to do king pins. The + fits nicely into the caps, you can put an air wrench on it, then run the thread chaser in to clean up threads after you get the cap out.

That's exactly it. Their argument in 2020 was "anyone but trump" but now they have to admit how horrible Biden is. Doesn't mean they have to like trump, but they have to admit Biden's mind is gone.

I borrowed one from local Mack dealer a few years ago, I think it was at least 3/4" drive. Brand name started with Ken, came with 2 sockets and the matching thread chasers. Worked fantastic.

FYI if the truck was originally operated in Canada then it may have a "Canadian spread" axle spacing, so longer camelback springs, longer driveshaft between the intermediate axle and rear axle.

RD in 1981 will be a double framed R model 685 will be a 237hp Mack ENDT675 engine (The "6" above is the standard frame profile) The S after 685 indicates 6 wheel truck, typically using 44k lb rear tandem. I expect it's a Mack camelback. ST is Six Wheel Tractor, usually 34-38k rear tandem. SX is Six wheel Extreme duty rear tandem, typically 55k springs, potential to go up to 65k supposedly, or even 100k I think if i remember reading something about it once, but that would be on an RD800.

Someone else can chime in, I thought the kingpin socket was a Kenmore tool #22002, but I can't find it anywhere online. What brand is it??

The grease cap on the top of the king pin hole usually gets spot welded on, otherwise greasing them pushes the caps off.

Spend your money on the king pin nut tool from Kenmore, it comes with both size sockets for all Mack steering axles as well as thread chasers to clean up the threads. We do same as Joey. Crib up the axle beam, disassemble hub, balance an old king pin on from the previous king pin job, and beat the hell out of it patiently. Doesn't usually take us too much beating, these pins are tapered. Once they pop they come right out, unlike a straight king pin that can be gummed up the whole way out. Sidenote, I'm a scrawny 5'11" 150 pounder. I can swing a 6 pound sledge a lot harder than I can swing an 8 pound sledge. Use the tools you can control.

At 40k you won't even know you're loaded. We have a 1979 with an endt676 (283hp 2valve heads) that still runs strong at 50k+.

I'll take mean tweets over pooping on stage in front of the world... Absolutely outrageous the image we project with this guy...

A buddy of mine voted for Biden and stands behind the vote. Thinks Biden is awful, but couldn't stand trump's outcries against election gerrymandering and mean tweets. Personally I think the mean tweets were Trump's flashlight to shine on all the rats swimming in the swamp!

My suspicion is that the wire end and possibly sensor melted a bit, and got deleted.

Wound up being real easy: Double check on my Mack Flash Drive P/N 23-021 (has every wiring harness of every Mack chassis from 2000 to about 2020/2021) to compare the switch circuit/wire codes from the 2000 MR688 donor truck to my 2003 I'm working on. Circuit identical. Found wire VJ1-10-0.8 on the 2000 harness which is on my shelf. Appears to go to parking knob area. Got 2000 MR688 dash panel out of storage box, park knob has 2 sensors on it! Went to my 2003, only has one sensor, but has a plug in other port! Found wires nearby, VJ1-10-0.8 is intact, taped to its pair 17-A-0.8 which has been cut short and the end electrical taped. "Borrowed" a sensor from the 2000 dash park knob which I hate doing, but I used the label maker to leave a note for future use; repaired wire end 17-A-0.8 plugged it all together and ran the test light. System functional, I'll be heading to the dealer hopefully today to get the software side cleaned up! Will post results later!

Once again shame on those around Joe. Came across a news article he may have crapped his pants on stage in front of the French president? Absolute shame on everyone around him parading him around when he's this far gone. I get it most of us don't like the guy in the first place, but we at least should recognize his human dignity and call out the people puppeting him around. Retire him and surround him with his loved ones and call it a day. Give the reins over to VP Llama already.

Best bet is to find a truck online with the setup you want, and borrow the VIN to order the part from a Mack dealer in Venezuela.

Then it's back to the dealer for them to try again.

Even if this were a manual trans with a clutch I couldn't switch set the idle without VJ1-10-0.8 receiving parking brake signal. It can enter the reprogram mode without the park brake signal, but can't program a new idle without it. Worst case scenario I just have to plumb in a new park brake switch receiving power from 10amp circuit breaker #17 to one side of a park brake switch, and wire VJ1-10-0.8 on the other side of the switch.

They can't change anything til the VECU registers that the parking brake is set. I need to trace wire VJ1-10-0.8 to find the missing parking brake sensor. I found the wire by the VECU, just need to cut a boatload of zip ties so I can follow it.

Is this even a Mack engine? A little more info on year/engine would be helpful