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JoeH

Pedigreed Bulldog
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Everything posted by JoeH

  1. Maybe; the spokes have the holes for them though.
  2. That truck is done up nice! Interesting they've ditched the steer axle brakes!
  3. I'd buy a superliner with an E9-500. But somehow I don't think that's the right answer! Not sure what weights you're hauling but unless you're running an E9 then Mack has you limited to 12 liters until you go newer than 2007, and after 2007 you're into all sorts of wonderful Volvo gadgetry. I'd probably snoop around for a Pete or Kenworth with a Cummins.
  4. Have you tried backing off the high idle screw? That's how we upped one of our endt676 motors from about 1800 to 2100...
  5. I'm sure she appreciates the effort! We get pizza a lot, and it's gone up probably 30% the past year. Let's go Brandon!
  6. Thanks, hoping we don't set something on fire trying to get it to start lol! It has a switch in the cab to shut power off, red wires labelled RD-A(B through G)-19.0. I'm guessing they're general component power for the power distribution. Wires A and AB are down by the starter going to a Klixon circuit breaker that looks sketchy.
  7. My dad bought a giant 3 binder set in the mid 80's when he bought our first Mack, the 1979 he's still driving.
  8. Pull out any 92/93 book and look up inter-wheel in the table of contents. Its there. I believe mines dated 1986.
  9. Checked the oil pan for water today, had a little bit of accumulated condensation from sitting for nearly 10 years. Drained that out. Oil level is maybe a gallon high, might drain a bit out. Coolant reservoir is good. Untangled some of the rats nest of harnesses, air lines, fuel lines etc that were coiled on top of the transmission. Dragged the battery cables out. Before I gut this cab to make way for all the wiring etc from our 2003, we're gonna dip the fuel lines into a bucket of fuel, toss a couple batteries in and see if we can get this motor to fire up! Just want to know it's a runner before we pull anything apart. We did bar the engine over a couple turns and it was tight. Good compression, barely broken in.
  10. I would not put a 2800rpm give spring anywhere near this motor, all it takes is one screw up and you're floating valves and smashing them against pistons and now you're into needing that spare motor.
  11. Are you sure you can't back off a travel stopper bolt? Much like the idle adjustment screw.
  12. 2100 is your maximum governor target. The precursor endt676 motor which is pretty much an E6 with a 2 valve/cylinder head, allowed 2300 when shifting, but was governed around 2100.
  13. I think the frame side of the trans mount is the same, but the trans bell housing side is different. Uses the same rubber donut isolators I believe. I'll still hold that a donor parts engine/trans combo is a good idea. Even if you don't need the spare parts engine, it'll have the flywheel and housing to match the transmission.
  14. What's a common application that would have been buying the inter-wheel locks? Fire trucks? Municipal Plow trucks?
  15. I've seen 112/113, 150/151, 200's mentioned, what are the differences? The 92/93 book mentions the 112/113's. Are they weight ratings? Generations? Housing differences to accommodate taller ratios?
  16. Obviously you'll have to have a new driveshaft made up as the trans will likely be a different length than your current one.
  17. I think if you had a strictly mechanical auto trans to put in there you'd be ok to swap transmissions, but you'd likely need to come up with a flywheel and possibly flywheel housing specifically for an automatic. You'll have gear control over the auto, so you can cap it at 1st, 2nd, 3rd for speed control to keep your engine speed up to keep your air compressor pumping for your brakes. Finding a donor engine/trans from a firetruck that matches your current engine is a great idea, though you don't have to swap engines. Just flywheels etc. Never hurts to have an engine for spare parts!
  18. The service manual on the 150/151 carriers shows an air cylinder with a wire pigtail for alarm sound in some of the pictures for the CRD1501/1511 inter-wheel locking differentials, but the CRD92/93 book is largely lacking on showing any possible variations in the carrier housings to accommodate any sort of air actuated differential lock.
  19. In my hunt for off-road traction for my concrete trucks, I've come across some interesting info. Older CRD92/93 rear carriers apparently had a limited slip style differential option, and those carriers would be CRD921/CRD931. The newer CRD1501/1511 version uses an air cylinder with fork to slide a locking clutch through the differential to lock it. Does the CRD921/931 do similar? In the CRD92/93 service manual it seems to imply that it's an automatic torque biasing cage with wedges much like the automatic inter-axle power divider. Does anyone on here know anything about these rears? I suspect trying to aquire a pair of these differentials would be like trying to bottle unicorn farts.
  20. I was more so thinking that they hacked the rear frame down at an angle because they have some steep jumps to drive over, and the trailer would otherwise interfere with the rear of the frame. It certainly does look like the trunnion may have been slid back, there is some weird metalwork involved on the rear of that frame.
  21. E7 boasts being about 16 lbs lighter than an E6 on account of having a smaller, more refined water jacket. The E7 is a wet/dry cylinder sleeve assembly. Top half of the sleeve is wet, bottom half dry. I forget how many quarts less it holds, but it's enough to make the E7 with coolant lighter than the E6 with coolant, even though dry the E7 is heavier. The E7 is a 12 liter displacement engine vs the E6 is an 11 liter displacement.
  22. If you ever have to do wiring repairs, every wire has a code printed on it that tells where it goes. Example in the wiring diagram for this vss sensor, VJ2-12-1.0 indicates it originates at VECU plug J2, pin 12, and the wire size is 1.0.
  23. Didn't like the first picture, it was a bit blurry.
  24. Do yourself a long term favor, buy Mack Book part number 8-211, it's a list of all fault codes, plus their possible solutions. Here's page 1 of code 4-1: it shows under Additional Symptoms that reduced power option may be enabled.
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