JoeH

Is this a fully mechanical fuel pump, or vmac II or vmac III fuel system? A picture of the right side of the engine would give the guys on here an idea of what exactly you're driving so they can tailor their responses. Have you changed your fuel filters? Did you get bad fuel from a transfer tank or gas station? When you change your fuel filters dump the fuel in the old filters into a mason jar so you can see if you're sucking water. The water and fuel will stratify, meaning the water will be on the bottom and the fuel on top. You'll see a clear line between them. I think some engine setups run a pressure relief valve on the return side of the fuel in order to keep fuel pressure up. You could have a failing relief valve? You could also have the Dreaded Piece of Trash floating around in your fuel tank, blocking the suction line. Some idiots try to seal a leaking fuel cap with a plastic bag (super dumb) and sometimes people unknowingly let the foil seal from a bottle of fuel treatment go into the tank. Either one can cause you this headache.

Paging @SkippyMack the old timers want an update on the truck

I ran the following Legacy category search: And was rewarded with about 100 different books to sift through including what you asked about (in paper format or digital file for free) You can just punch 8-501 into the emedia search box and go straight to this.

The appear to only have the one form of electronic schematics, nothing older. However if you run a broad search like this: Then you'll be rewarded with about 4 pages of different books for different years. Off on the left they list a few different age categories of trucks, I didn't search the Legacy category to see if there was anything there. You'll be rewarded with things like this: That have an SKU that's completely useless to the dealer til they find it in the emedia search function themselves.

No, at my Dealer, Bergeys.

Can't speak for your truck, but the bottom picture looks like every pair of rear mount bushings we've had. Torch or undo top of bolts, jack up the trans high enough you can chase out whatever remains of the old bushings, and then drop two rubber bushings and washers into the top two holes on each side in the frame bracket, lower trans most of the way, then put the bolt/washer/bushings in from the bottom and pit the nut on top. Its kind of a two person job. Can't speak for the front engine mount bushings, the engines I have use a rubber donut around the front of the timing cover at the crank hub.

Snap a picture of the brackets you have and we can yay or nay one style or the other for grommets.

So I bought Mack Part Number "23-021". Its awesome. Cost me about $176. Its a flash drive with wiring schematics of every Mack model/option from about 2000 to 2021 build years. Even lists some Australian trucks. It is almost 4GB of data. Open the flash drive, open folder "src", then open the program launcher. Launcher window has 2 drop downs, one for build year the other for truck model. Pick those 2 then it gives you a series of system choices: engine controls, transmission controls, HVAC, lighting, after treatment(emissions junk) etc etc etc. All the wires in the schematic (or at least for my 2003) are labelled. For anyone who has a truck in this year range, I can't recommend this enough.

What's the application? Tell us more about these 30-40% grades. considering 45% is halfway to straight up, I have to question the accuracy of the grades. Is this once in a while to come out of the pit at a quarry?

Clarify what engine is in the donor granite, it's either AI-400 or ETECH 400. It shouldn't be an E7 though. Difference is the fuel system. That aside, assuming ETECH 400 or AI-400 everything should be identical other than minor turbo differences based on AI vs AMI. Only difference between AI(and AMI) and ETECH is the camshaft has extra bumps on the exhaust lobes in order to open the exhaust valves a hair during exhaust stroke to suck emissions back into the engine. The turbo and exhaust manifolds are also a bit restrictive to create back pressure to facilitate the dog eating it's own vomit.

Sounds like you have an interested party in idaho

Depends how good you are with a clutch. What year is the truck? The vmac III engines the computer will assist by maintaining idle as a minimum. On a hill from a dead stop, you have one foot on clutch, one on brake. Use lowest gear you have, which on an 8LL is LL. Ease the clutch out til you feel it make contact and start to grab just enough to hold truck from rolling backwards, then your brake foot moves to accel pedal and gives it an extra couple hundred rpms at most while your left foot eases the clutch out the rest of the way.

How fast do you want to get up that hill? You just set it in low low and keep the engine revved up, you'll get to the top eventually.

These are 11 liter engines so they really just don't have much potential for engine braking.

What's your other truck? The Jake brake on these isn't much use for anything other than shifting, but it makes a world of difference as a shift aid.

New gaskets are a must. This is an ENDTB, so it has Dynatard not jake brake? Does the Dynatard use a riser under the valve cover? The Jake does, so you need 2 valve cover gaskets per head, one for the riser and one for the valve cover. I've never had a Dynatard so I don't know how they're set up.

These don't have a valve cover groove.

While I've only had to replace one head on these engines, we've had the valve covers off plenty of times. Last time was to delete the jake brake, we have a weak valve springs on one cylinder and the disk on top of the valve stem that the jake actuator pushes on kept popping out, so after the 2nd time it popped out we pulled the plug on the jake.

Trust me. Absolutely nothing. Don't use hi tack, don't use silicone, don't use anything. Check the valve covers for "straight" sides, the mating surface bows outwards when you over tighten. Wipe the mating surfaces down real well so there's no oil residue or anything else on them, put the gasket down, cover on, make sure the gasket is sitting right under the covers, then torque them up. High tack and rtv silicone and anything else will lubricate the gasket and it will squeeze out. You will never get them to seal properly for any length of time unless you do them dry. Our '79 endt676 we could never get to seal up. We tried high tack and rtv and it always leaked. Then we did it dry once and we've been leak free for years now.

If he wants to total it I'll tell him "BS, I can fix it for 80% of that." That's typically the cutoff point where they total it. If it's totalled, they auction it off and I have Last Right to buy it at auction price. So I'm expecting them to value my truck at $30k even though I have $70k into that chassis. Then some exporter buys it at auction for $10k, I gotta buy it back, and I get $20k for my $70k investment. I will have no problem fixing the truck for -80% of $30k.

Throwing my $0.02 at a 13 year old post, the "Low" position effectively sets all the gears "down" one gear. 2nd acts like 1st, 3rd like 2nd, 4th like 3rd, etc. In my opinion, you couldn't ask for a better setup for local driving, if you had a jake brake. Hill shifts are no problem, with a jake. Shifts smooth and easy, and not too many gears to wear out your shoulder. My Eaton 8ll is a PoS, occasionally it hangs up in gear for a second even when the shifter is in neutral. Always has been since we bought the truck 13 years ago, but I haven't blown it up yet so we keep running it.

Same here. They're either concrete pumps and $100,000+ or garbage trucks and beat to heck. Part of what's frustrating about the whole thing, ours was a bit of a gem compared to anything else as old out there!

On the frame he thought a couple of the places where the frame changes depth and also splays out around the engine/trans were kinks from the accident. He also thought the frame would be twisted, which yea on a dump truck I'd expect that. But this mixer bolts rigid at the back, and mid and front mounts are spring-hold bolt mounts, which only allow about 2" of twist deviation from the mixer body, which has its own frame that adds rigidity to the truck.

@Joey Mack got the mixer body off on Black Friday, had my cousin Pete "The Crane Man" bring one of his cranes over to lift it off. Insurance guy came to look at truck more than a week ago and he tried telling me the frame got tweaked. BS. There's not a thing wrong with this frame. He sounded like he was ready to total the chassis, but I told him we're not totalling anything til I get the mixer body off and get a truck collision guy over to look this thing over. I think I'm gonna get away very lucky, only needing a cab and miscellaneous hoses and brackets, tie rod & ends, maybe kingpins and drag link ends too, just to be safe. Axle shifted about 1/4 inch on the passenger side, so it could be into springs as well. Just need to lock in on a decent parts truck and we can get this truck back together.

I've only had to do a head on these once, I did it by the book. Torque to 200, drive around got an hour, retorque. Its a pain to have to deal with all the intake tubing, and those valve covers are horrible to seal. Gotta do them dry and do not go above torque spec.