Jump to content

JoeH

Pedigreed Bulldog
  • Posts

    2,283
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    14

Everything posted by JoeH

  1. He's a narcissist. He loves the center of attention. Some people villainizing him galvanizes others to love him even more.
  2. My brothers and I all learned to drive on my dad's 1979 R686ST. Video e it for 6 years while we built a volumetric mixer for a 95 RD688S triaxle we bought. Now I've been driving that for 9 years, and we're phasing the '79 into backup/retirement. I like R's. 🤓 Though I do like that Pete, that's the body style I'd chase if I bought a Pete. Though the hood fenders don't have good off-road clearance. Mack's were built for on and off road. Sat up higher.
  3. A nice coat of paint and that'll be a sharp looking Pete. What else does it need other than tires? Does it have braided airlines or synflex?
  4. Even just a picture of the R by itself is ok ... 🤠
  5. Don't you mean 4th term? Someone's gotta be pulling the strings while Biden eats ice cream...
  6. "Deleted" you'll be on your own to fix, dealer probably won't want anything to do with it, so be prepared to work on it yourself.
  7. Generally Mack's and "deleted" is nothing but problems, but I have no experience in the matter. Just what I've heard. Personally I cringe at the thought of buying an MP engine, but the reality is it's gonna have to happen someday. Injector cups are a regular maintenance item or so I figure from a lot of talk about them in the past. Timing gears are all on the backside of the engine I think, which sounds weird to me. Not sure how others feel about that.
  8. What year? The ETECH and AI/AC engines have a fuel gallery drilled through the block, and there's a plug at the front end of that gallery that's inside the timing cover. This plug can come loose and let fuel into the oil pan. But you need to give us more specifics on engine year so we can know more about what you're working on.
  9. As long as there happens to be an R model posted with it I think a blind eye will be turned to the Pete...
  10. Wow that is clean. That truck is a gem. I'd expect the engine and transmission plus mounts to match, but I don't know what engine/trans you have, I'm unfamiliar with a 747. Frame I'd assume would match an RW700, I think the first number digit indicates frame profile, though maybe not because the dm600 frame is way different from an R600, though I think they share engine/trans mounts. The U600's have the same frame as R600's though. I borrowed a U model frame rail front half to splice into our '79 R686ST that cracked vertically. Didn't have to drill a single hole. Those doors look awfully similar to R model doors.
  11. I will add that our DM was overheating running the blower motor for unloading cement. Swapping over to the fixed fan made a world of difference. Old fan clutch was probably worn out. This truck is a good worker for you, I'd swap the fan clutch and see if that helps.
  12. Which cabover model do you have? Just curious what radiator it has. Our MR688 has a monster radiator. Tons of cooling. Probably half again the size of a typical R model, and the same engine.
  13. Also what kind of fan clutch do you have? The heat activated type or a fixed fan? If fixed then you're getting all the air flow possible out of the fan, and if heat activated then it is possible the clutch is worn out and not pulling enough air. You should hear the fan roar to life when it kicks on. My 1980 DM686 has no thermostat installed and has a fixed fan. It's just a yard truck now for unloading our cement trailer. Runs at 1700 rpms for about an hour to unload, and the engine temp stays between 150 and 180. Side note on thermostats, I always make sure they have pin hole drilled in them to facilitate purging air out of the system. Hate imagining an air pocket trapped against the thermostat and not getting hot enough to open.
  14. I think the brass fitting cracked that threaded into the intake manifold, and it has some sort of a filter screen in it and it was seized into the manifold, so we just deleted it. This truck doesn't have the transmission torque switch, but we had an identical truck one year newer that did. My dad says you'd hear a click when you shifted into 5th and the truck would kick you in the butt. The transmission switch is unnecessary. The whole system is unnecessary at this point.
  15. You get black smoke til the turbo hits 10-15 psi. Then it clears up. No big deal. I have one truck that's still roadworthy with this same engine, the puff limiter just stopped working a couple years ago so we just capped it off, which I believe just involves pulling the aneroid valve (reversing relay) off the rear intake manifold and putting a plug in instead.
  16. My CAC testing kit. Two 3 inch PVC pipe caps from Home Depot, one with a wheel valve stem for pressurizing. Third fitting is a 2 inch cap wrapped in electrical tape to make the difference to the 3" required by my MR688S. Uses a different size CAC outlet than my RD688S. Just tossing this out there into the Abyss of BigMackTrucks info.
  17. Just had my plugs out the other day, I forget if it's 3 or 4 inch, schedule 40 PVC pipe caps from home Depot. Plugs right into the rubber boots on the CAC. Drill one and put a wheel valve stem in it. Should be good for 35 psi, if it leaks you'll know quick.
  18. What cab is this truck, RD690? You could have a fatigue crack on the charge air cooler, my 95 e7-350 had one running most of the way down the passenger side. My truck made 25 psi ever since we bought it in 2009, ran hot on the pyro too. Last year it started dipping closer to 22 psi max. Found the cracked CAC, put a new one on and now I get 34 psi on a good pull, and cooler pyro temps. Rarely over 900 degrees now.
  19. If you're doing the heads yourself, DONT SWT THEM DOWN "RIGHT SIDE UP"! The injector nozzles stick down into the combustion chamber, you'll crush the tips! Either set them down on cribbing or set them down on their side.
  20. He is working on an E7 mechanical, not sure if the heads are the same as the E7 ETECH engines. Do the older E7's have this exhaust stud issue too?
  21. Not sure what the E6901 is. Is this an E6 engine? Or an endt675/6 engine? The ENDT engines use plastic fuel return leak off lines that jump from injector to injector and then run back down to the injection pump/fuel return I believe. These lines get brittle and crack eventually, and 99 times out of 100 I'd bet this is the cause for draining off fuel when sitting. Easy enough to buy a coil of this stuff from your Mack dealer and replace any that are damp.
  22. Not level to the ground or not level to the hood assembly? Ground would be frame twist/uneven spring packs I'd expect, and to the hood assembly I'd be out of my league.
  23. On the ETECH motors I think I've heard that the lower exhaust manifold bolts are open to the pushrod passageways, so you can get oil coming through the stud threads. Probably not part of the issue, but maybe?
  24. Up the idle speed to 650 rpms where it belongs. Should just be a screw stopper on the fuel pump that the throttle lever stops against. Micro switch for the engine brake may block your view of it.
×
×
  • Create New...