MackTech

OK, at the plant I went through an issue with a truck. First off, ride height is measured from the bottom if the frame rail to the center of the spline for the yoke on the axle that the leveling valve is attatched to. You also need to find the angles of each drive axle. If they are off they can cause an issue. The angle is determined with a load on the rear with a digital protractor. Zero it on the frame rail and check the angle on a machined surface, usually the yoke spline or the part that the "straps" for the yoke bolts to. I would have the driveshaft balanced first if it's definitely missing weights, that will cause a problem for sure!

OK, at the plant I went through an issue with a truck. First off, ride height is measured from the bottom if the frame rail to the center of the spline for the yoke on the axle that the leveling valve is attatched to. You also need to find the angles of each drive axle. If they are off they can cause an issue. The angle is determined with a load on the rear with a digital protractor. Zero it on the frame rail and check the angle on a machined surface, usually the yoke spline or the part that the "straps" for the yoke bolts to. I would have the driveshaft balanced first if it's definitely missing weights, that will cause a problem for sure!

I know back when we made R models and DMs at the plant in Macungie they use to use this archaic device to bend the door to close properly when it didn't line up right. It was a simple device it went over the top of the door and the bottom and there was a ram centered on the door with a big wheel. As you turned the wheel it pulled the top and bottom inwards. The doors wound up closing much better then. You might be able to do something similar with a ratchet strap and a block of wood. Just need a very strong one. Oh and best bet would to put something on the door to distribute the force against the inner door like a metal plate.

How about at the Mack museum in Allentown?

Nothing like that made in Macungie

There was no fire in Macungie, I do know we're having issues getting hoods and roof fairings from Rene, not sure of reasoning though, lots of rumors there LOL

That tip is just an option, you can change it and not worry about emissions

That's how Mack use to do it..... There was an aluminum block mounted on the carrier with a line to each spring chamber

That's how Mack use to do it..... There was an aluminum block mounted on the carrier with a line to each spring chamber

Another place is where the light assemblies are bolted to the hood sometimes wires get pinched there and short out.

Do you have fog lights? If so you may have a relay issue.

You can take the plugs out of the Bendix SR7 valve and run the hoses direct to the spring fittings, no need for Ts

You can take the plugs out of the Bendix SR7 valve and run the hoses direct to the spring fittings, no need for Ts

RD800s were still available when I started at Mack in 98, I remember building them.

Cabs are still painted at Macungie currently, there are rumblings that they are going to come in pre-painted though. The hoods and fairings are starting to come in pre-painted, but I don't think all of them are, as of yet, haven't been on that side of the plant in quite awhile.

The side cover if damaged will let water in, if you want to check spray water on it, but if the o-ring isn't seating properly, that may be the point of entry. Also the seals on the yoke(s) may be damaged (not sure how much, if any water would get in there). if the rear was under water past the breather that would cause it to. Depending on of you still have water, replaced the side covering and breathers, before doing anything else. Just thought about if the yoke seal was damaged, water could have gotten into the bearing, damaging it and possibly that's what the metal was from. Start simple, then dive into the harder parts. You may have to separate the carrier to check the RTV gasket. Was there a gasket or RTV on the axles when you pulled them? A damaged gasket would allow water into the carrier at that point too. Just a couple of ideas. Hope some of these may help. Here at the plant we don't use additives, but like with any other mechanical components, depending on how may hours, you may need some. You need to find one for whatever type of fluid and use a high temp one. You may want a temp sensor to make sure it's not getting to hot too, if it takes on water and you don't want to go through the hassle of draining it all the time. You can get a Mack sensor if you want one. May need to program the instrument cluster and add a gauges too. Well that's enough of my two cents, LOL.

How much air do you have? Needs to be built up enough. Or your pressure switch(s) may be bad, not sure if they are wired or not.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate your suggestions! Thank you much! Dan

I was wondering what tools you use when removing the internal bolts when separating the carrier from the housing. I know that some make their own tools, others find some that work good. I was wondering if you could post a pic of what you use, particularly with the star headed bolts that are inside the coverplate on a Mack rear. I know a 5/8 twelve point fits on, but it's an extreme pain in the a$$ to break them free, much less get them out (especially the front and rear ones) Any help would be much appreciated.

Sounds like it's possible that the compressor 1/4" airline might be going to the pressure protection valve. If I can think of something else I'll post it.

You wouldn't believe how clutches are set at the plant lol....how do you guys set them? I know how I set em.....I'd like to know how much variation you guys get from the plant too thanks

It was largely because of that sale of the automobile portion that Vovlo AB had the finances to make the acquisition from Renault. I wonder sometimes what would have happened if things kept on going with Renault in charge......hmmmmm. It didn't seem too bad!

I don't recall it being a 2010 truck when I worked on it......I do remember working on it a few months ago, think it went down the line in April. I think it had a Mack trans too........don't remember that.

I bet we could make a Titan 6X6 if you really wanted one......but I do know that you could get a brand new GU as a 6X6 if you wanted one, let me know if you're interested, I know just the person to talk to!

No more RDs are being made they are all new GU models.....You could have one retro'd but I'm sure that'd cost a bundle...... I think that the ones that we make at the plant are GU7s, the axle forward variety. I can ask the engineer who's responsible for 'em to find out, I talk to him quite often.