Full Floater
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Everything posted by Full Floater
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Wow! MANY THANKS for taking the time to write that post. All of which is news to me! I might want to re-think this whole ordeal
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I am wanting to have a more compact setup and re-purposing the truck and need the room where the remote pump currently sits. I'm curious as to why you prefer the rear mounts. I honestly don't know the difference between the two
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Nice. Never knew about this
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Or even better yet, does anyone have a part #?
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I have a shaft driven pump off the PTO on this 107 6 speed in an R model. I'm curious if I can do away with the shaft drive and remote pump, for a pump that's married to the PTO. Does such a beast exist for a 6 speed? Thanks, Kevin
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Exactly this. I to will be upgrading a wore out oem style turbo, with no intention of making more power, just to clean up the smoke a bit. But some power, lower egt's and increased fuel economy might just be some added bonus's
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What did this turbo upgrade do to help keep smoke output down? Does it spool quickly to clean up the upshift/hard throttle smoke? Im looking to upgrade turbo's, not necessarily to make more power but to make it run as clean as I can make a 50 year old diesel run.
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Rear leaf spring pins/bushings
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Driveline and Suspension
Ah, I was trying to capture that part number. Anyways, I found pins and bushings at Pacific Spring, here in BC canada. They are on their way. -
I have a Mack "RAD 529C" s/a rear axle and spring suspension from a 76 R685ST, that im looking to re-bush and pin. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the hardware for this setup? Unfortunately there are no spring shops locally that I can take the assembly to
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Eaton, rather
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If you're goal is simply to maximize smoke, then im afraid I cannot help you. These engines smoke enough as it is. Im no tree hugger and some smoke doesn't bother me, but I certainly don't try to maximize it. Part of being a good driver is to be able to control smoke output with your driving technique
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Spicer.
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Well, the engine is now in, running and looking good. No leaks. In the final stages of buttoning everything up. Im at clutch adjustment time. I got the 1/2'' between the throw-out bearing and clutch brake set, now im needing to adjust freeplay in the linkage/cable. There is this style linkage on the bellhousing. Which my other Macks don't have. There appears to be some adjustments that can be made with it. I figured id chime in here before I start messing with it, to see if there is a proper procedure. Thanks
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e6 block heater replacement.
Full Floater replied to Tinman22's topic in Electrical, Electronics and Lighting
8600813 for a 1000w option -
Parking brake does function properly and brakes apply properly. Today I discovered that its backfeeding into a supply port of the foot valve (causing it to exit out the exhaust port), from the front brake limiting valve on the dash, which is fed from the parking brake valve.... Still haven't "fixed" anything yet, but that's going on it seems. It does have a trolley valve/trailer brake valve. The position of the lever has no effect on the situation, but that's as far as I got with that
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Yup, parts quality control sure took a turn for the worst. Well im going thru things slowly and at least im learning exactly what lines go where and what ports do what.....so I guess that's a plus
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No the profile pic truck is a different truck. But it's similar. The foot valve was changed as I had the engine out and it was accessible and original as far as I could tell. I wanted to replace it while it was easy to get to. Matched all the lines as they came off the old one.
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Installed a new Bendix E3 foot valve on my 75 R600. Now it leaks from the exhaust port of the foot valve when the parking brakes are APPLIED. Next to no leakage when released. Is this an indication of something backfeeding into the foot valve when it's not supposed to? I didn't have this problem with the old foot valve that was replaced, BUT; I did do a pile of air line and air system replacement work all at the same time so there's a chance that something somewhere has changed or been messed up. Just thought id ask here before I tear into it all again. Thanks
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Thank you
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Getting my re-freshed 235 fitted into its R600 chassis. The donor truck had the heater core fed from the valve on the back of the water manifold, as shown in the picture. With the other end going to the water pump. Where as the previous engine in the truck was fed from a water jacket on the passenger side of the block, behind the compressor. Which of the two options would provide the best heat output? Im thinking from the water jacket. At least it should have heat a bit sooner as the engine warms up.
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6 speed countershaft cap gasket.
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Engine and Transmission
Got it! The square plug was covered in grime, and I didn't even see it! haha. -
6 speed countershaft cap gasket.
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Engine and Transmission
Mmm, in my case; both sides had a trough just on the inside of the filler hole. Identical on both sides and they both had an opening to which I could shove a hose, toward the bellhousing of the trough. I triple confirmed that the situation was the same on both sides -
6 speed countershaft cap gasket.
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Engine and Transmission
I did pull the fill plugs (both sides) and yes they both had metal particulate on them, along with the magnetic drain plug. They all were magnetic. I found out that its a bit of a bugger to get fluid back into these things as the fill hose has to be shoved forward quite a bit in order to allow the oil to actually flow down into an opening, instead of splashing right back out of the fill hole. -
6 speed countershaft cap gasket.
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Engine and Transmission
You betcha, I will be careful with the amount applied. -
6 speed countershaft cap gasket.
Full Floater replied to Full Floater's topic in Engine and Transmission
Working on it now. The old oring came out just fine, with no breaks. I cleaned everything up spotless and I think I will run very light RTV in the oring galley, re-install the oring and also a very light bead along the outside edge of the cover. Should I use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads?
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