Full Floater

The new king pin set is now installed. Took me all day, but i don't care. The tool that I was interested in buying would have been useless for this job. The pins and the draw keys all pounded out just fine. I drilled out one of the draw keys as it was seized. The new pins went in fine, just a little bit of a chore to line everything up. I managed to get 1 extra shim in place over what was in there, just 1. Thanks for the suggestion Paul. The brass bushings that were in there, pounded out just fine once I got a bite on them. The new split poly or whatever they are bushings, went in like nothing. The grease holes lined up but I drilled them out anyways. All is good. Again, many thanks for all the tips and tricks gents. This is the kind of support that keeps these old trucks rolling for years to come!

Seems like my other 4 Macks (all lighter spec axles) have a different style of front knuckle/king pin design. Probably the tapered style. Maybe this style is more specific to the heavier spec axles?

They have the 2 "draw keys" which are tapered at one end. That I would assume get pounded out and in. That act as a key way into the 2 slots on the king pin. Is that what you mean? There is no nut of any kind on mine, far as I can see so far

Thank you very much for the detailed reply. As for reaming the bushings? Are we talking the ones that appear to by nylon/plastic in this particular kit?

Turns out mine are not tapered. Is that a bad thing? Here is a pic of what my new kit looks like. Looks straight forward. But I guess i'll soon find out. Will be starting this job in the morning. https://www.meritorpartsxpress.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/en/meritor-na/r200168

Is anyone needing a complete "running" (with what has been diagnosed as a valve train knock/tick) 866, 375hp? 1978 as I recall. I will be parting out a re-powering a R700 with one, in BC Canada, and will offer this 866 to someone for any reasonable offer.

Yes. In this particular case, I am really trying to leave the axle in place, in the truck. When the truck was getting resurrected (I should have done the king pins then) I would have pulled the axle at that time and done it in a press, which I have. But it's now in service and am trying to do it in the most time efficient way. Plus i've just put new leaf springs in it and all that jazz and would like to leave all that alone. Again, I should have done the king pins at that time.

Did I ever! I'm now leaning towards tackling the king pin job without the Tiger Tool or equivalent.... still thinkin about it...

Ah..... so the newer style lifters will fit the old E6 and V8 engines? This is an upgrade that might be added to my list if this is the case.

Was the lifter issue an problem on ALL E6 engines, or when or what models did they move on to a different design?

Just ordered one of these tools, as that's not something that I have in my drawer.

And last way longer and use less fuel.

It is a Mack axle. Are the king pins more cooperative in them, rather then an off breed axle?

Its a 75.

Has anyone had any experience with the Tiger Tool king pin press? I'm wanting to change out some king pins on my R600 with an 18,000lbs steer axle, and I want to set my self up to win, in what would certainly be a tough job otherwise. I am assuming this unit would work on a Mack axle....but I'm not sure. Any thoughts would be great before I dump this kind of $ at a tool. Thanks! https://tigertool.com/products/king-pin-press

I used Prince George Fuel Injection, in B.C Canada. I won't hesitate to use them again.

I would imagine so. They also did some "improvements" to the flyweights. Not sure what. But, the long and short of it is, throw some $ at these pumps and the surging can be calmed down.

There sure isn't a lot of info out there.

Old topic, but a common issue. I just had an Ambac pump rebuilt solely due to worn gov springs/surging at low rpm/low throttle input. A rack "buffer" kit was installed in conjunction with whatever else they did to the governor. Solved the surging problem completely. I have 3 others with the same problem, and will eventually get all 3 of them done also when funds permit. Should be good for another 40-50 years now.

Reliability and longevity wise, is the V pump equally as capable as the inline pump?

Yes the system does have a filter. I have recently replaced it and the fluid along with all the power steering hoses. I used 15w40 engine oil as per recommendations from somewhere here on a different topic in discussion. I also used a few ounces of Lucas Power Steering additive.

Seems like I got it! I'll know after some more driving, but so far on test runs, it's tightened up.

MANY thanks! Great info! So just to clarify, when you say "center must be passed" for correct adjustment, does this mean the wheels need to be turned to one side, as long as it's beyond center of of the range of travel?

My main questions are: Does the pitman arm NEED to come off for proper adjustment? And does the set screw get adjusted in the "center" of steering movement where there is the most play, or with the steering turned to one side? I'm reading conflicting info on the old "www"

It's never a bad idea to run an air dryer. You can run a conventional readily available model like a Bendix AD-9. Doesn't have to be Mack.