Full Floater

Installed a new Bendix E3 foot valve on my 75 R600. Now it leaks from the exhaust port of the foot valve when the parking brakes are APPLIED. Next to no leakage when released. Is this an indication of something backfeeding into the foot valve when it's not supposed to? I didn't have this problem with the old foot valve that was replaced, BUT; I did do a pile of air line and air system replacement work all at the same time so there's a chance that something somewhere has changed or been messed up. Just thought id ask here before I tear into it all again. Thanks

Thank you

Getting my re-freshed 235 fitted into its R600 chassis. The donor truck had the heater core fed from the valve on the back of the water manifold, as shown in the picture. With the other end going to the water pump. Where as the previous engine in the truck was fed from a water jacket on the passenger side of the block, behind the compressor. Which of the two options would provide the best heat output? Im thinking from the water jacket. At least it should have heat a bit sooner as the engine warms up.

Got it! The square plug was covered in grime, and I didn't even see it! haha.

Mmm, in my case; both sides had a trough just on the inside of the filler hole. Identical on both sides and they both had an opening to which I could shove a hose, toward the bellhousing of the trough. I triple confirmed that the situation was the same on both sides

I did pull the fill plugs (both sides) and yes they both had metal particulate on them, along with the magnetic drain plug. They all were magnetic. I found out that its a bit of a bugger to get fluid back into these things as the fill hose has to be shoved forward quite a bit in order to allow the oil to actually flow down into an opening, instead of splashing right back out of the fill hole.

You betcha, I will be careful with the amount applied.

Working on it now. The old oring came out just fine, with no breaks. I cleaned everything up spotless and I think I will run very light RTV in the oring galley, re-install the oring and also a very light bead along the outside edge of the cover. Should I use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads?

Great suggestion. It's due for an oil change anyway, since it's a new to me trans and I have no record of service history. So this is my calling

Thanks gents. I'll try the silicone!

Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out. In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit. Is there a gasket kit for these?

You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump. I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag. That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines. All my pre 1977 engines have that. And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines. That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further. Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train

On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category? I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser. I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard. But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.

Revisiting an old thread. I am wanting to replace a not working square, bolt on heater adapter with a conventional style heater element. Like the 81 and newer trucks have, mostly for ease of future replacement and parts availability down the road. Can this be made to happen with the existing water jacket plug/bushing that is currently housing the bolt on heater, OR should I use one of the other water jacket plugs? Im thinking something like this might work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173017045115

Yeah maybe it started off round I guess

Sort of off topic, but what model turbo is that?

Does anyone know if this O-ring on the adapter fitting for the oil feed to the jake assembly thru the rocker, is still available thru Jacobs? Looks like a specific square style oring. I'm reluctant to reuse it According to the parts list on their site, its a .365IDx.07W

I have noticed that the tall bolts for the rocker housing are longer, to accommodate the jake assembly

Thank you for sharing that pic of your lifting apparatus. I like it. I am going to try my best to avoid using the head bolts. I'll see what I can come up with

Awesome, thank you.

I'm about to lift 2 different 675, 235hp engines to swap one of them into the other truck. I have never lifted a Mack engine before and I plan on using a steel cable/strap under the rear of the bellhousing/clutch housing; but still need an idea for lifting the front. I have read that some have used the valve cover bolts to affix a bracket to (I'm not that brave). And some have used a couple head bolts. I am really not wanting to disturb the head bolts on the one good running engine that's being pulled. Are there any other ideas on a front lifting point? Thanks

Is there a particular temp that these engines "like" to run at? It's cooling system re-fresh time for me on a Canadian 235 and I want to do the thermostat while im in there. It's in a tow truck that doesn't tow max gvw loads and short trips more then long trips so im thinking a 170 or 180 degree stat

No updates on my end. I have several engines that could use this. I just simply haven't looked any further into it

This axle is from a 1976 R 685ST Yes I will be pulling the hubs to give it a good inspection and replace the hub seals for sure and likely the brake linings. Hopefully I can get a number off the seals when I pull them out. Will change the gear oil and probably leave the rest alone for now. Yes I do believe that the "power divider" description in the build sheet might be reference to a LSD type axle, shifting power from side to side instead of axle to axle. After checking oil levels I will drive the truck over some loose ground with no weight in the back and see if both wheels have a tendency to put power to the ground instead of just one wheel. I think painting the MACK lettering on the rear of the axle in the same red that the cab is going to be, is and excellent idea. Let everyone behind me know for sure they are following a pedigree Mack. May as well throw some Mack "greatest name in trucks" mud flaps on to!

If anyone out there has a service manual for this particular axle, and is willing to sell it.....I'd buy it