Full Floater

Thanks gents. I'll try the silicone!

Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out. In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit. Is there a gasket kit for these?

You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump. I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag. That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines. All my pre 1977 engines have that. And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines. That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further. Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train

On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category? I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser. I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard. But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.

Revisiting an old thread. I am wanting to replace a not working square, bolt on heater adapter with a conventional style heater element. Like the 81 and newer trucks have, mostly for ease of future replacement and parts availability down the road. Can this be made to happen with the existing water jacket plug/bushing that is currently housing the bolt on heater, OR should I use one of the other water jacket plugs? Im thinking something like this might work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173017045115

Yeah maybe it started off round I guess

Sort of off topic, but what model turbo is that?

Does anyone know if this O-ring on the adapter fitting for the oil feed to the jake assembly thru the rocker, is still available thru Jacobs? Looks like a specific square style oring. I'm reluctant to reuse it According to the parts list on their site, its a .365IDx.07W

I have noticed that the tall bolts for the rocker housing are longer, to accommodate the jake assembly

Thank you for sharing that pic of your lifting apparatus. I like it. I am going to try my best to avoid using the head bolts. I'll see what I can come up with

Awesome, thank you.

I'm about to lift 2 different 675, 235hp engines to swap one of them into the other truck. I have never lifted a Mack engine before and I plan on using a steel cable/strap under the rear of the bellhousing/clutch housing; but still need an idea for lifting the front. I have read that some have used the valve cover bolts to affix a bracket to (I'm not that brave). And some have used a couple head bolts. I am really not wanting to disturb the head bolts on the one good running engine that's being pulled. Are there any other ideas on a front lifting point? Thanks

Is there a particular temp that these engines "like" to run at? It's cooling system re-fresh time for me on a Canadian 235 and I want to do the thermostat while im in there. It's in a tow truck that doesn't tow max gvw loads and short trips more then long trips so im thinking a 170 or 180 degree stat

No updates on my end. I have several engines that could use this. I just simply haven't looked any further into it

This axle is from a 1976 R 685ST Yes I will be pulling the hubs to give it a good inspection and replace the hub seals for sure and likely the brake linings. Hopefully I can get a number off the seals when I pull them out. Will change the gear oil and probably leave the rest alone for now. Yes I do believe that the "power divider" description in the build sheet might be reference to a LSD type axle, shifting power from side to side instead of axle to axle. After checking oil levels I will drive the truck over some loose ground with no weight in the back and see if both wheels have a tendency to put power to the ground instead of just one wheel. I think painting the MACK lettering on the rear of the axle in the same red that the cab is going to be, is and excellent idea. Let everyone behind me know for sure they are following a pedigree Mack. May as well throw some Mack "greatest name in trucks" mud flaps on to!

If anyone out there has a service manual for this particular axle, and is willing to sell it.....I'd buy it

I'm totally unsure at this point. Have not pulled the hubs off this one, yet.

Anyone know the oil grade they require? I would guess probably 80w-90 but i'd like to go 75w-140, just wanna make sure I don't bugger this thing up by doing that

They can sure bring a man to almost tears. I have a White Western star that is almost as bad. Also swapped that to a 39MT on the Big Cam Cum-a-part which made install easier

Thank you. Yup im hoping it will turn out well. It's a 23k rating which is exactly what I need for the application it's going into. And im just fine with spring suspension. It's fairly low mileage and feels tight

Finally getting around to uploading a pic. This is the 39MT in a Western (narrow frame) 1975. Don't mind the mess, the truck's being resurrected from the dead

Ya im not into the additional stresses on the engine, BUT......I would be interested to see if a compound turbo setup could be tuned to drastically reduce that thick Mack exhaust smoke on upshifting/acceleration

Yeah they are rare here to. Everyone tells me to put an Eaton and air susp in this truck im building but I would MUCH rather run this Mack single drive rear just cause it's something different. And being Mack, probably better. Im hoping.

Hi. Im working on a single axle R with a RAD529C and a CRD1171 Carrier. Do we like these axles? Is there anything to look out for in regards to problems? According to the build sheet and some info I found online, the CRD1171 is some sort of power divider. How does that work in a single axle? Thanks