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Full Floater

Bulldog
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Everything posted by Full Floater

  1. Awesome! Thanks for sharing the video and your findings. Can't wait to watch it.
  2. I notice this on all my Mack E6's. The gov springs in general seem to be a weak link on these and can be very touchy. I bet the slight load, or lack there of it when the compressor is off, throw the gov springs off slightly. I wouldn't worry about it much, although it can be a bit annoying. But hey, it's way better then a new truck with a check engine light
  3. Stemco 2 piece vs Voyager. The voyager went in nice and smooth and seemed to fit well. Running Lucas Hub oil. Will see how it lasts.
  4. Yes, I'll take some pics. The Stemco number is 320-2137, crosses to a Voyager 383-0164. I did manage to find some early seals at Finditparts online and ordered them for on the shelf for later. But the Voyagers are the only thing I can get here locally at any of the jobbers
  5. I wish I had an Allied Bearing Co, near me. ....or anything good for that matter.
  6. Yes I did mean the steer axle. 1975 R with 18.000lbs front. I will have a close look for that dowel pin hole, thanks! I just pulled the old wear ring off to get measurements and such to confirm the right new seal, will get back at it later today
  7. I have been struggling to find Stemco 2 piece seals lately. Found a set for the rear axle on the s/a R that im putting together, but nothing for the front. So Voyager it is. We'll see how it goes. I don't know what's best these days but Im only familiar with the Stemco's on the old iron that I have. If Voyagers last, well I guess that may be the ticket. I assume they are easier and quicker to install, and they seem to be available
  8. Not trying to hyjack this post, but my personal beef with them is the extra space they take on an application that's space limited. And the added moving part (driveshaft), which is kind of a moot point, but it's always nice to eliminate extra moving parts when possible
  9. Good question. Im casually on the lookout for something for a rear mount pto on a 6 speed. I'll report back if I find something
  10. Mine showed up today AND it was the right one!!! That's always nice. I managed to fit the spray nozzle of of Fluid Film can into the cable sheath and held a rag super tight around it and gave er all the way and got Fluid Film coming out of the opposite end after a while. It was a little messy but that was a quick and easy way to pre lube the cable!
  11. I will certainly keep the cable on the shelf for the day that I need it! Thanks for you input on lubing the cables. I think that's an important step to longevity and reliability. I used to coil an entire cable and place it in a bucket of oil of some sort, and let it sit for a day or so. Not sure if it did anything, but I don't think it hurt.
  12. Sounds like my closest dealing thinks they found the right one. It's on order....we'll see what happens
  13. Where is a good place to start looking for a clutch cable replacement for my 75 R600? Mine's not broken, just want to stay ahead of that game. Is this s dealer item? How do I measure it to know what length this particular cable is. Regards
  14. Thanks very much everyone. One more question, which perhaps has already been answered and I missed it? ....but is there an option for a married pump to mate to the rear mount existing pto? Since it sounds like a wise idea to leave the pto itself, alone.
  15. Wow! MANY THANKS for taking the time to write that post. All of which is news to me! I might want to re-think this whole ordeal
  16. I am wanting to have a more compact setup and re-purposing the truck and need the room where the remote pump currently sits. I'm curious as to why you prefer the rear mounts. I honestly don't know the difference between the two
  17. Nice. Never knew about this
  18. Or even better yet, does anyone have a part #?
  19. I have a shaft driven pump off the PTO on this 107 6 speed in an R model. I'm curious if I can do away with the shaft drive and remote pump, for a pump that's married to the PTO. Does such a beast exist for a 6 speed? Thanks, Kevin
  20. Exactly this. I to will be upgrading a wore out oem style turbo, with no intention of making more power, just to clean up the smoke a bit. But some power, lower egt's and increased fuel economy might just be some added bonus's
  21. What did this turbo upgrade do to help keep smoke output down? Does it spool quickly to clean up the upshift/hard throttle smoke? Im looking to upgrade turbo's, not necessarily to make more power but to make it run as clean as I can make a 50 year old diesel run.
  22. Ah, I was trying to capture that part number. Anyways, I found pins and bushings at Pacific Spring, here in BC canada. They are on their way.
  23. I have a Mack "RAD 529C" s/a rear axle and spring suspension from a 76 R685ST, that im looking to re-bush and pin. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the hardware for this setup? Unfortunately there are no spring shops locally that I can take the assembly to
  24. Eaton, rather
  25. If you're goal is simply to maximize smoke, then im afraid I cannot help you. These engines smoke enough as it is. Im no tree hugger and some smoke doesn't bother me, but I certainly don't try to maximize it. Part of being a good driver is to be able to control smoke output with your driving technique
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