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Full Floater

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Everything posted by Full Floater

  1. Full Floater
    Or even better yet, does anyone have a part #?
  2. Full Floater
    I have a shaft driven pump off the PTO on this 107 6 speed in an R model. I'm curious if I can do away with the shaft drive and remote pump, for a pump that's married to the PTO. Does such a beast exist for a 6 speed? Thanks, Kevin
  3. Full Floater
    Exactly this. I to will be upgrading a wore out oem style turbo, with no intention of making more power, just to clean up the smoke a bit. But some power, lower egt's and increased fuel economy might just be some added bonus's
  4. Full Floater
    What did this turbo upgrade do to help keep smoke output down? Does it spool quickly to clean up the upshift/hard throttle smoke? Im looking to upgrade turbo's, not necessarily to make more power but to make it run as clean as I can make a 50 year old diesel run.
  5. Full Floater
    Ah, I was trying to capture that part number. Anyways, I found pins and bushings at Pacific Spring, here in BC canada. They are on their way.
  6. Full Floater
    I have a Mack "RAD 529C" s/a rear axle and spring suspension from a 76 R685ST, that im looking to re-bush and pin. Can anyone point me in the right direction to find the hardware for this setup? Unfortunately there are no spring shops locally that I can take the assembly to
  7. Full Floater
    If you're goal is simply to maximize smoke, then im afraid I cannot help you. These engines smoke enough as it is. Im no tree hugger and some smoke doesn't bother me, but I certainly don't try to maximize it. Part of being a good driver is to be able to control smoke output with your driving technique
  8. Full Floater
    8600813 for a 1000w option
  9. Full Floater
    Parking brake does function properly and brakes apply properly. Today I discovered that its backfeeding into a supply port of the foot valve (causing it to exit out the exhaust port), from the front brake limiting valve on the dash, which is fed from the parking brake valve.... Still haven't "fixed" anything yet, but that's going on it seems. It does have a trolley valve/trailer brake valve. The position of the lever has no effect on the situation, but that's as far as I got with that
  10. Full Floater
    Yup, parts quality control sure took a turn for the worst. Well im going thru things slowly and at least im learning exactly what lines go where and what ports do what.....so I guess that's a plus
  11. Full Floater
    No the profile pic truck is a different truck. But it's similar. The foot valve was changed as I had the engine out and it was accessible and original as far as I could tell. I wanted to replace it while it was easy to get to. Matched all the lines as they came off the old one.
  12. Full Floater
    Installed a new Bendix E3 foot valve on my 75 R600. Now it leaks from the exhaust port of the foot valve when the parking brakes are APPLIED. Next to no leakage when released. Is this an indication of something backfeeding into the foot valve when it's not supposed to? I didn't have this problem with the old foot valve that was replaced, BUT; I did do a pile of air line and air system replacement work all at the same time so there's a chance that something somewhere has changed or been messed up. Just thought id ask here before I tear into it all again. Thanks
  13. Full Floater
    Thank you
  14. Full Floater
    Getting my re-freshed 235 fitted into its R600 chassis. The donor truck had the heater core fed from the valve on the back of the water manifold, as shown in the picture. With the other end going to the water pump. Where as the previous engine in the truck was fed from a water jacket on the passenger side of the block, behind the compressor. Which of the two options would provide the best heat output? Im thinking from the water jacket. At least it should have heat a bit sooner as the engine warms up.
  15. Full Floater
    Got it! The square plug was covered in grime, and I didn't even see it! haha.
  16. Full Floater
    Mmm, in my case; both sides had a trough just on the inside of the filler hole. Identical on both sides and they both had an opening to which I could shove a hose, toward the bellhousing of the trough. I triple confirmed that the situation was the same on both sides
  17. Full Floater
    I did pull the fill plugs (both sides) and yes they both had metal particulate on them, along with the magnetic drain plug. They all were magnetic. I found out that its a bit of a bugger to get fluid back into these things as the fill hose has to be shoved forward quite a bit in order to allow the oil to actually flow down into an opening, instead of splashing right back out of the fill hole.
  18. Full Floater
    You betcha, I will be careful with the amount applied.
  19. Full Floater
    Working on it now. The old oring came out just fine, with no breaks. I cleaned everything up spotless and I think I will run very light RTV in the oring galley, re-install the oring and also a very light bead along the outside edge of the cover. Should I use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads?
  20. Full Floater
    Great suggestion. It's due for an oil change anyway, since it's a new to me trans and I have no record of service history. So this is my calling
  21. Full Floater
    Thanks gents. I'll try the silicone!
  22. Full Floater
    Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out. In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit. Is there a gasket kit for these?
  23. Full Floater
    You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump. I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag. That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines. All my pre 1977 engines have that. And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines. That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further. Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train
  24. Full Floater
    On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category? I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser. I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard. But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.
  25. Full Floater
    Revisiting an old thread. I am wanting to replace a not working square, bolt on heater adapter with a conventional style heater element. Like the 81 and newer trucks have, mostly for ease of future replacement and parts availability down the road. Can this be made to happen with the existing water jacket plug/bushing that is currently housing the bolt on heater, OR should I use one of the other water jacket plugs? Im thinking something like this might work. https://www.ebay.com/itm/173017045115

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