Jump to content

Full Floater

Bulldog
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    371

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Full Floater

  1. Full Floater
    Spicer.
  2. Full Floater
    Well, the engine is now in, running and looking good. No leaks. In the final stages of buttoning everything up. Im at clutch adjustment time. I got the 1/2'' between the throw-out bearing and clutch brake set, now im needing to adjust freeplay in the linkage/cable. There is this style linkage on the bellhousing. Which my other Macks don't have. There appears to be some adjustments that can be made with it. I figured id chime in here before I start messing with it, to see if there is a proper procedure. Thanks
  3. Full Floater
    8600813 for a 1000w option
  4. Full Floater
    Parking brake does function properly and brakes apply properly. Today I discovered that its backfeeding into a supply port of the foot valve (causing it to exit out the exhaust port), from the front brake limiting valve on the dash, which is fed from the parking brake valve.... Still haven't "fixed" anything yet, but that's going on it seems. It does have a trolley valve/trailer brake valve. The position of the lever has no effect on the situation, but that's as far as I got with that
  5. Full Floater
    Yup, parts quality control sure took a turn for the worst. Well im going thru things slowly and at least im learning exactly what lines go where and what ports do what.....so I guess that's a plus
  6. Full Floater
    No the profile pic truck is a different truck. But it's similar. The foot valve was changed as I had the engine out and it was accessible and original as far as I could tell. I wanted to replace it while it was easy to get to. Matched all the lines as they came off the old one.
  7. Full Floater
    Installed a new Bendix E3 foot valve on my 75 R600. Now it leaks from the exhaust port of the foot valve when the parking brakes are APPLIED. Next to no leakage when released. Is this an indication of something backfeeding into the foot valve when it's not supposed to? I didn't have this problem with the old foot valve that was replaced, BUT; I did do a pile of air line and air system replacement work all at the same time so there's a chance that something somewhere has changed or been messed up. Just thought id ask here before I tear into it all again. Thanks
  8. Full Floater
    Thank you
  9. Full Floater
    Getting my re-freshed 235 fitted into its R600 chassis. The donor truck had the heater core fed from the valve on the back of the water manifold, as shown in the picture. With the other end going to the water pump. Where as the previous engine in the truck was fed from a water jacket on the passenger side of the block, behind the compressor. Which of the two options would provide the best heat output? Im thinking from the water jacket. At least it should have heat a bit sooner as the engine warms up.
  10. Full Floater
    Got it! The square plug was covered in grime, and I didn't even see it! haha.
  11. Full Floater
    Mmm, in my case; both sides had a trough just on the inside of the filler hole. Identical on both sides and they both had an opening to which I could shove a hose, toward the bellhousing of the trough. I triple confirmed that the situation was the same on both sides
  12. Full Floater
    I did pull the fill plugs (both sides) and yes they both had metal particulate on them, along with the magnetic drain plug. They all were magnetic. I found out that its a bit of a bugger to get fluid back into these things as the fill hose has to be shoved forward quite a bit in order to allow the oil to actually flow down into an opening, instead of splashing right back out of the fill hole.
  13. Full Floater
    You betcha, I will be careful with the amount applied.
  14. Full Floater
    Working on it now. The old oring came out just fine, with no breaks. I cleaned everything up spotless and I think I will run very light RTV in the oring galley, re-install the oring and also a very light bead along the outside edge of the cover. Should I use thread sealer instead of RTV on the bolt threads?
  15. Full Floater
    Great suggestion. It's due for an oil change anyway, since it's a new to me trans and I have no record of service history. So this is my calling
  16. Full Floater
    Thanks gents. I'll try the silicone!
  17. Full Floater
    Excuse the dirt and grime, the steam cleaner is coming out. In the bellhousing side of the 107 6 speed, I have one of these square caps (countershaft caps?) leaking a bit. Is there a gasket kit for these?
  18. Full Floater
    You're probably looking at the right tag, passenger side of the engine kind of behind and above the injection pump. I also have a "newer" (1983) EM-6 that doesn't have the engine "family" category on the tag. That category MIGHT be a thing only on earlier engines. All my pre 1977 engines have that. And the B family apparently are Dynatard engines. That's not to say that yours is not compatible....just I don't know how to identify it further. Maybe someone knows what to look for under the valve covers/valve train
  19. Full Floater
    The crank looked good, to my naked eye, and the sleeve is sure tight after cooling down, so I "think" it should be leak free
  20. Full Floater
    I do recall the seal being recessed a fair bit. I didn't measure it. The flywheel and clutch are assembled now. Now, do I need to pull it apart to put a sealant under the wear ring?
  21. Full Floater
  22. Full Floater
    Hmmmmm.....good point on the sealant. The manual did state to heat the ring to 400*f and made no mention of sealant..
  23. Full Floater
    Just an update. This is the rear main seal and wear ring kit that I purchased. Fitment was perfect. Heated the wear sleeve up and it slid over the crank flange with little effort and cooled to a tight fit. Froze the rear main seal and was able to get it seated fully into the housing without using the special service seal tool. https://www.woodlineparts.com/products/pai-ekt-3800-mack-57gc186a-rear-seal-and-wear-ring-kit-made-in-usa?_pos=1&_sid=5edee4cc7&_ss=r
  24. Full Floater
    On the engine tag, does it say "B" in the engine family category? I do believe there are some B engines, that simply didn't come with the actual retarder as maybe they were not speced out to have a retarder by the purchaser. I have a 237 engine family B, that doesn't have the Dynatard. But as far as I know, I could install one if I wanted to.
  25. Full Floater
    Anyone ever put a main seal in the freezer prior to install in the housing, to shrink the OD of the seal to ease install? Just curious

BigMackTrucks.com

BigMackTrucks.com is a support forum for antique, classic and modern Mack Trucks! The forum is owned and maintained by Watt's Truck Center, Inc. an independent, full service Mack dealer. The forums are not affiliated with Mack Trucks, Inc.

Our Vendors and Advertisers

Thank you for your support!

Mack Related Links

Popular links

BMT Forum Logo

HTML tutorial
×
×
  • Create New...