Full Floater

HAHAH. Ok note taken. But when you say no way of holding the dogs, is that in reference to them falling out if I accidently remove the nut, OR do you mean hold them to keep them aligned? I was thinking just loosening the nut about 1 turn or something to take tension off of the dogs and hopefully let them settle where they need to settle, in case one is kittywampus

OR!!! if I loosened the dog nuts thru the access port one at a time, then with the engine off I depress the clutch pedal several times to hopefully align anything that might be out of whack, then retorque them. Thoughts?

So the dogs allow the intermediate plate to move back and forth, correct? I'm not familiar with them in any other application that I've worked with in the past. This is my first Mack trans/clutch operation

Grease is due to not pressure washing everything as good as I should have during install due to it being 10 below during that time. There was a leaky rear main on the previous engine. There is no grease on the new clutch brake however.

Side note, thank you everyone for your dedicated and prompt support. Means a lot. I hope I can return the favor on another topic one day

Sorry I never answered that dog question a few posts back. The dogs are the same dogs that were in the flywheel. The clutch had been replaced at some point recently (thats probably when the rubber mounts were done as well) due to a wore out clutch. There was not much wear on the clutch and the dogs were likely done then also, seeing how there was no noticeable wear on them. Just so things are clear, the reason the clutch was replaced again is due to me having the engine out of the truck and obviously it made sense to throw a new clutch at it while im in there. As for the dogs, they appeared square/aligned when I slid on the intermediate place but I did have to kinda push/tap that plate on. It wasn't totally smooth but also not an apparent problem. There is a side access port on the flywheel housing to access 1 dog nut at a time. I wonder if it would be worth while to loosen each, one at a time; and retorque. In case one is hung up or something

I can't really get a good pic of the clutch brake with the release fork in the way....but it's in there. Kind of sitting "loosely" in the keyway of the input shaft that is slide in on

The clutch brake is the same brake that was in it when I pulled the old engine out. And its the same brake that's in the truck that had the donor engine. A Babcock 2 piece. Slides over the input shaft of the trans and mates up to that nose cone/plate unit with springs on the trans side, then up to the flat side of the TO bearing. It's almost as if there is no clutch brake action taking place. If it was a automobile with a manual trans, it would be like pressing the clutch down just barely, enough to not stall the engine when the trans is in gear, but not enough to easily slide the shifter in or out of gear.

Also the cable was replaced when I installed the engine/clutch and reassembled everything. It's a Mack sourced cable for the truck VIN that had the same specs as the old cable.

Thanks for clarifying what term is for what when it comes to adjusting. I adjusted the 5/8 adjusting bolt (w/pedal depressed with a 2x4) to the point of having more then 3'' free travel in the pedal to almost no free travel. Equating to +/- 1/2'' gap between the TO bearing and the clutch brake. I use a piece of 1/2'' round stock bent in such a way to fit around the release fork to make that measurement. I also adjusted the external linkage rod. Neither of which made a noticeable difference. I have messed with both adjustments lots over the past couple days, but messed with them again during this test with the wheels off the ground so I can run the driveline.

The 4 rubber mounts on the bellhousing/trans area are in great shape. I think they were replaced not too long ago by a previous owner. The front mount "seems" fine...not really too sure what to look for there. The shift levers do rock a fair bit. Actually more then my other 3 six speed trucks do

Ok so, I blocked up the rear of the truck, plumbed in my service brake lines. With the engine running and the transmission in gear and spinning the driveline, I can apply brakes until the truck wants to stall (no clutch slippage occurring), then while maintaining steady pressure on the brake treadle, I step on the clutch and can stop the driveline. Then release the clutch and start it spinning again. So there is SOME disengagement however it's not fully disengaging. There is still some audible load on the engine as it still wanting to spin the driveline but I have the brakes applied. The instant I release the brakes the driveline is in full swing again. I rough housed it a bit on and off the brakes with the clutch 2/3 of the way depressed etc.... and im now pretty sure nothing is "seized" from sitting in a damp environment for a few months without use. Here are some pics with clutch applied, clutch released and linkage disconnected and pulled back in the last 2 pics to view the clutch brake. You can kind of see it in the last pic. The back side of the clutch brake (closest to the trans) has got some noticeable meat worn off of it, probably from me trying to get it working over the past couple days. I adjusted the quick adjust +/- a few times while doing this and no real difference in results. I don't know, I guess im pulling the damn transmission again......

I dont know. They appeared the same, but there might be discrepancies there.

Yes it's tight up against the brake when the pedal is depressed. Im pretty sure it would come out of gear with a quick blip of the throttle followed by pulling it out of gear, just that I didnt have room for that when I jumped into gear on me when I was messing with it so I had to pull the shutdown cable

Yes the machine shop did leave maybe 1% of the outer edge un machined due to there rigging not being able to bit that far or something. There was next to nothing for a lip, but lets hope thats causing my problem! Hayseed-Yes they are the same flywheels.

Tomorrow I might try blocking up the rear axle and run it thru some gears and jar it with the throttle a bit

Im wondering now if one of the dogs got out of whack when installing the center disk of the clutch. there was no slop in there had to give it a push to get the disk on.

The engine is a 235 and trans is a 107 six speed in both trucks. Same flywheels, different model trucks. Both had mechanical clutch linkages with a cable from the pedal. but slightly different linkage setup at the bellhousing, so that's a difference. The new clutch looked the same as the clutch that was in it, the numbers off the old clutch were cross referenced to the new clutch. I didn't mess with the dogs. What tool is there to align them? Yes the clutch brake is on the trans input shaft. It's a Babcock 2 piece. Same that was in there. Ya so the main symptom here, just so I stay clear in my ramblings; is the clutch will not disengage while the engine is running, to allow the transmission to be placed in gear. I installed the clutch on the flywheel/engine while the engine was on the ground being overhauled. It installed into the truck pretty flawlessly. Anti rattle "shims" were installed as per instructions in the clutch kit. I was new to those but I don't think they would be causing my grief. Im thinking the issue must be internal. Im hoping its just a sticking clutch disk that I can free up somehow, I just can't really drive it at the moment to free it up buy rough housing it a bit. I will take a pic and post it here so there can be a visual.

The engine starts and runs no problem. With the engine running, when I depress the clutch to the floor to wait a couple seconds for the clutch brake to do it's thing, I cannot get it into gear, it just grinds as if im trying to stab it into gear without pressing the clutch in. I can wait a long time with my foot to the floor, and still no engagement, it just wants to grind.

I let the local heavy truck jobber source the clutch for me....sure hope they gave me the right one.

I can put the truck in lo gear and start it but it's not currently in a position to move more then a few feet. And I have the service brake system all apart for new relay valves and such. It did actually jump into gear when I was trying it and had to pull the shut down to get it to stop as I had no clutch disengagement to take the load of the trans to get it out of gear. Didn't have room to throttle it and release, to brake the torque. I have had someone work the clutch as I watched, the throw out bearing pulls the clutch "rod" back and the bearing moves up against the clutch brake. Also used a board for adjusting purposes to hold the pedal down when nobody was around. One thing I cannot do, or I haven't yet, was to measure .010" gap at the clutch brake with the pedal at the floor as I can't get in there with the Mack style release fork in the way. Will have to custom bend a feeler gauge or something. But it's probably close enough that I should get at least marginal disengagement Yes the clutch plates went in right. Triple checked that when installing. The release fork is on the right side of the throw out bearing hahaha. I can see how THAT problem could potentially occur

3 months later, getting back to it, the clutch is adjusted with 1/2'' +/- between the throw out bearing and the new clutch brake, pedal free travel about 2'' I cannot get the clutch to disengage even if I adjust +/- on the kwik adjust and/or linkage. I've tried adjusting it both ways and adjusting the linkage several times, to no avail. Everything is adjusted to spec again before I move on. The trans just grinds as I try to put it into gear and will not mesh. The clutch discs went in the correct way, line up tool used to align it and new pilot bearing. The clutch brake is new Could it be that the clutch plates are stuck to the re-surfaced flywheel from sitting a few months? Can I rap on the back of the clutch through the inspection hole to attempt to free it up? If so, should I do that with the pedal depressed?

A reply that exceeded all expectations, again! THANKS

I am in the process of converting a tandem R600 into a single axle for a re-purpose of the truck. The overall length of the driveshaft has extended by a little over 2ft. I had the driveshaft professionally lengthened and balanced. All new u-joints and steady bearing. The location of the steady bearing is further back and I am moving a crossmember to accommodate the bracket. AND I have to use or make another steady bearing bracket as I didn't get the bracket back with the driveshaft and the driveline shop is 5hrs drive away. Can someone school me on driveshaft angles a bit? It's my understanding that the angle of all the joints should be 3 degrees or less.... what else am I missing here?

You're pyro probe is in the downpipe after the turbo and not in the manifold, correct? Ya don't hold it at those temps for too long.