Full Floater

You know it! And they never admit it!

As of today, another R model has been saved and put back on the road for another few decades of service hopefully. This truck was left for dead, then acquired and converted from a tandem dump to a s/a rollback, with parts from other R's left for dead, and much help and advice along the way from the fine folks here on BMT. This truck will join a small fleet of other old iron, running 24/7 on call service, year round. Through all the weather and in a challenging geographical area. Thanks guys. The next Mack will be a lowbed tractor.....

Thank you

Getting to learn a 107 series rear mount pto at the moment. With the aux box in N, the pto still spins with the main box in N, OR in gear. Is that normal? And just to clarify what most probably view as obvious, is the pto supposed to spin faster/higher rpm when the main box is engaged in a higher gear? Is there a downside or anything to watch for if the main box is in a higher gear like 3rd or 4th? So far i've only been experimenting with 1st and 2nd but wanted to be sure its ok to choose a higher ratio

Good tip! Just tried mine. She's seized.....on to the penetrating oil...

Thank you! So spin in the cap with a larger flathead/straight edge of some sort I would imagine?

Is this the style we're talking about? JoeH, if so....how does one adjust it?

In applications where there is not enough room to swing a hammer or something to drive an old pin out, I can see the threaded pins coming out ahead in the serviceability standpoint

Got them done! Went smoother then I expected. Thanks guys. They should be good for another 50 years now.

Does it do them any good, to disconnect the air supply line to them and give em a squirt of some form of oil from time to time?

Excellent advice. Thank you

Nice, that's good news. Ah ok, didn't realize the shackles have to come off also. But that makes sense. Thanks fellas

About to install these sassy new front springs in my 75 R model. I have never messed with Mack front springs before, and im curious about these threaded spring pins. What is the best method to remove them? Is there to tool to fit over the slot or can I put a wrench on it to spin them? Also, what are the pros and cons of threaded pins? Many thanks

Take the switch apart or the motor? Id like to dig into the motor (which works fine) to clean it up and make sure its good for a while.

Interesting....is that a Mack thing or just specific to the CL series? I have a couple R models that have a little slop there.

Thank you guys. I just ordered that one from HD pros. We'll see how she goes!

I'm new to the air wiper world, or at least; new to servicing them. Never really had much trouble with them before. The air wiper switch on this 75 R600 is leaking air in the OFF position. What is my best way of resolving this? Is there an o ring or a kit or something that I can replace? And as for the air motor itself, although it works fine, it's probably never been touched in 48 years, is there anything I should do to it in regards to maintenance? Cleaning? oiling? Many thanks!

That seems to make the most sense, doesn't it.

Re-visiting this topic. Im now at the heater box, putting together 1 heater box out of two. Same boxes, same dimensions, different heater cores. One appears to be a 3 row and much bigger. I'm assuming this one would give off more heat? Your thoughts?

39MT. I have and have had several in service.....they've been pretty reliable. And way easier/lighter to fandangle into place

Here in BC canada, 36 keeps at an annual inspection level instead of semi annually, which would be great of course. So that's what it will be then. Thank you

Great insight, thank you. And it's a rollback tow truck just fyi. Should be well spec'd for it's application.

I have converted a tandem R600 to a s/a The blown 38,000 Mack rears were replaced with a Mack RAD529 24,000lbs rear axle with the Mack 23,000lbs springs that came with it. The truck has an 18,000lbs front axle. 22.5 rubber I need (should) to determine a new lower GVW for the truck. I have not scaled it yet to determine it's new net weight. The door tag is blank and always has been and I see there are a few outfits online that are duplicating door tags on old truck. Not trying to do anything funny here, just would like a legible and accurate door tag with current and relevant weight numbers on it that apply to the truck now that it's a single. Any insight as to how I would best determine a "new" GVW for this unit? The old GVW was 53,xxxlbs. Im thinking the new GVW should be in and around the 36,000lbs range.

Got er done. Removed this and that, the valve is gone, more space to see what's going on behind the dash....the yellow and red still work as they are supposed to. Replaced a few air lines. Nothing's leaking. Im happy. Thanks folks.

Yes the blue one is independent of the yellow and red valves. There is a line from the yellow, going to the blue....not sure what it is, but im going to try to delete it. Simple is good.