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The Old Dominion Historical Fire Society has another CF listed on it's web site. It's a 1976 and appears to be in pretty good shape. Ex-Mont Alto, PA. Asking price $6500.00 There are also several new listings for antique trucks including a very unique Pierce, as in Pierce-Arrow; not Pierce fire apparatus, and a restored Ahrens-Fox piston pumper. ODHFS Web Site

John, Looks great! Let me know if you still want the parts list for the pony set up on the trailer. Carl

According to this vendor Filter Mart they stock a filter that crosses with Mack PN 236GB123A. Their PN 28-0081. I have never used this vendor and I know nothing about them.

Just a Mack or any maker? There are a couple non-Macks for sale on the SPAAMFAA web site, but they are older ads and may be gone.

The ODHFS web site has a nice looking 1973 CF listed for sale by the fire company that ran it. Its green and looks to be in pretty good shape. Asking price is $9500.00 1973 CF For Sale

Are you looking for a tiller truck or just a ladder truck?

I'm going to be there for the first time, but I'm not sure if I'll bring the 52 or just take the fifth wheel. I really want to bring the truck, but I have to be in MA the week after the show and with the price of fuel so high I don't know if I can trailer the truck to the show and than back to VA before turning around and taking the fifth wheel to MA. Either way I'm really looking forward to the show. I have heard nothing but great things about it.

Where have you looked so far? I assume you searched the Buda and Allis-Chalmers suppliers that are out there? Have you tried the ATHS web site yet. There are several A-C owners there that may be able to help you out.

Got the forklift; don't have a big enough shop to use it in with the truck in there. Can't afford the divorce to get a bigger shop.

No, but according to his bio in his book he was born in Port Washington, NY in 1932, so a web search should find it pretty quickly. I have seen his name mentioned on this board before, so a search here may turn up some more information as well. I would also try the ATHS site. If you like Mack stuff (DUH!) this book is a must. It's a well written history of Mack with lots of pictures. I believe it is available on Amazon from a used book dealer.

After some communication with Barry at Watts I took a chance and ordered four of the B front axle hubcaps from the B Model store at Watts. They fit perfectly and match the originals exactly. So, if are searching for hubcaps for your A model and your existing A model hubcaps look like the picture of the B hubcaps in the store's catalog, they should fit. For those folks who are missing their hubcaps; If the axle hubs have a groove around the hub these will probably fit.

You may also want to contact John Montville the author of the book "Mack" originally published in 1973. The book contains many pictures of Mack plants and other facilities, so he may have pictures of the branch you are looking for.

Because raw water runs through these from the pump these are notorious for freezing and cracking. If you retain tham make sure they are drained by blowing compressed air through the lines. Most owners block the lines off under the rig to prevent an unwanted freeze.

The B-21 fire trucks have a piece of sheet metal added to the hood section to accomodate the Hale-Scott engine. This one doesn't look stretched like they are.

Anything that sells for less than scrap price is worth looking at.

After about bust'in my back trying to stand up the tires I got the inspiration to try a long pry bar, aka a digging bar, to aid in the lift. Slide the bar into the center hole, use the bar to lift, and viola the tire and rim came up easy as can be. As Archimedes said "Give me a lever long enough and I'll move the world."

Great truck! Welcome to the "Have you lost your mind?" club.

1963 Mack C-85 Model Tanker/Pumper. 707 CI Gas Motor, Auto Trans, Air Brakes. N/Running (Needs fuel pump which i have) comes with lots of equipment (2 SCBA, Full bed of hose, Radio, Lights) Interior in excellent shape. Outside needs TLC. Will also need Front tires soon. asking 1500 Call - 804-943-4315 Serious Inquiries only please. Have Pics on my phone jus not on comp. Thanks 63 C Model

Next years ATHS show is in Springfield, MA. I'm not sure if we'll make it out to S. Bend. We were planning a west coast trip with the fiver,but I'm not sure that's going to happen now. I am planning on bringing the 52 to Macungie in June. Not to be a whiner, but it seems like every year DW and I plan a long trip with the fiver the price of diesel heads for the $4.00 mark. Makes it a little hard to hit the road. I don't know how you O/O's are making it.

I've been pulling a fiver for a few years now, but never with a class 8 rig. I see a fair number of class 8 rigs pulling fifth wheel trailer, so obviously it is a viable option. Most RV "experts" and fifth wheel warranties demand an air ride hitch for any truck heavier than a one ton. Fivers are like everything else in life; you get what you pay for. If you want an inexpensive trailer to use infrequently you will have problems with all of the issues that have been raised here. However, if you are willing to spend more to go to what is commonly called a full time rig you will not have near as many issues. Go to a camping show and look at trailers made by Excel, one of the industries best, and compare them to any rig Forest River makes. You'll see what I mean. I'm not bashing Forest River, that's what I own, but Excel and a couple of others are way above them in quality. I would stay away from a rear kitchen model as these are notorius for scattering the kitchen stuff due to rough ride. Air pin boxes are not expensive. I put one on my rig for around $700.00. IMO an air box pin will not smooth out the ride from a class 8 enough, you will need an air ride fifth wheel, or some other way to make the truck's suspension less harsh like air ride suspension. There are some after market suspension kits such as More-Ryde for fivers which might help as well. If you are looking for a fiver now there is a used Excel on EBay right now that I'm pretty sure is going to be a bargain for somebody.

The steering gear box on my 1952 Type 75A has quite a bit of movement relative to the frame. Frankly, it is a bitch to see as its wedged in between the frame and the engine, but it appears to be loose on the mount. The truck steers fine and the king pins, bushings, and all other steering parts appear to be tight. It has brand new tires so I can't detect any wear patterns on the tires. But, the steering wheel has about 20 degrees of play which I can see is apparently caused by the steering gear box moving on its mount. I believe the 75A uses the same chassis as the 40A. It appears to me that it is mounted to the frame by some type of a round mount that is secured to the frame with the steering box in turn clamped to that mount. It appears to be secured by two large bolts that draw the clamp together. Is that correct? Has anyone removed their A model steering gear box from the truck? If so can you offer me any tips of what I'm getting into? Anyone else had a problem with the steering box loosening on the mount? As I age I'm really trying to get away from the "go ahead and start turning wrenchs you'll figure it out after you break something" mode I always used. The Mack manual has nothing beyond how to adjust the steering gear.

Do you mean "Hale" pump? Are you talking about the transfer case or the priming pump? The priming pump will use straight 30w, but most folks have gotten away from using petroleum based oil in this application as it dumps to the ground right next to a water source. You can use vegetable oil or even water to achieve the same result. Try contacting either a local fire repair shop or Hale directly in Conshohocken, PA. for the correct transfer case recommendation.

Do you have a copy of Harvey Eckart's book "Mack Fire Trucks 1911-2005"? He has a chapter on these trucks. According to the book your truck was equipped with a 100hp 6 cylinder. The chassis number breakdown is: 1st number=number of cylinders;2nd two letters=chassis type;the next 6 denotes a fire apparatus;the S=shaft drive; the 1022 indicates it was the 22nd unit built. He does not specify the exact model of the engine's used. If all else fails try calling Harvey. The phone number I have for him is(570)759-2343. He has a vast knowledge of Mack Fire Apparatus and their history.

One other tip; The "road draft" tube is just that; its designed to create a venturi effect to purge the crankcase when the rig is driven. It doesn't work when the rig sits idling beyond just allowing pressure to escape the crankcase. This alone shouldn't cause the oil puking you described, but you need to be aware of this so you know there may be vapors present in the crankcase when the truck sits idling. A real long shot; Did anyone add a PVC valve to the engine and plugged the road vent to make it work? If so make sure the PVC is not plugged.

I'm still interested in the old mirrors if you want to sell them.