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No; the Marine-Tex is an epoxy type material that gives a very strong bond and can be used to "mold" parts if that's what is needed. I have used it over the years to patch gas tanks, fix cracked exhaust manifolds on boat motors, and even to build up worn boat props. It should hold up (I hope). Are the buttons still available? I'd like to replace the current plain jane with a Mack logo if it is still made.

I got it off. Thanks. The design was a bit strange in that one of the ears that holds the button down was "captured" in a closed U shaped tab instead of the usual flat tabs. I heated it which softened the plastic enough to release the button. Two of the tabs on the base broke off, but it was easy enough to put them back with Marine-Tex; my go to magic solution for fixing almost everything. I filed the closed tab open on one end so I could turn the button back on like all of the other buttons I have ever taken off. The interior was pretty corroded which prevented the button from grounding out. A little sandpaper and some patience got it working again. Because it is an open cab the steering wheel hub has a drain hole drilled in it so pouring a solvent like alcohol into it would be useless.

You may want to try the rig out before you spend the money to do the conversion. My 52 A Model is surprisingly easy to turn without power steering, especially compared to the 53 IH I just sold. Make sure the tire pressure is correct, the front end parts are properly greased, and it may surprise you. You will also have to teach her to plan her turns so she turns the steering wheel while the rig is moving; a skill most younger drivers don't have since the advent of universal power steering has eliminated the need to plan ahead to make a turn.

Have you written to the Mack Museum to get the build sheets yet? They will tell you what the original equipment was on the rig.

Thanks. I thought prying was the wrong move. I'll try the heat solution later today. No problem with the paint; It's long gone; worn off by several generations of jakes blowing the horn at folks trying to get them to move out of the way.

At least heroin can be overcome by Narcan and Methedone. No has come up with a cure for old truck disease yet. (Besides buying more trucks)

How do you remove the horn button from the steering wheel of a 1952 A Model? I have tried pressing and turning it without success. Since it is plastic I'm afraid to pry on it. Any help is appreciated.

Look in Hemmings Motor News for a speedometer repair shop. There are always several advertising there.

One of the nastiest wrecks I ever ran in my 32 years on the job was a tandem axle Mack RD dump truck that had the dump bed raise while the truck was operating at highway speeds on I-95. The raised body struck an overpass which caused the cab to pivot up into the bridge crushing the cab and killing the driver instantly. I never understood how the bed came up like that without the driver's knowledge. This driver was fortunate the trailer separated from the cab.

That's true, but at least in VA they give you the choice of what GVWR you want to register it at. As long as the rig doesn't weigh more than the registered GVWR you are OK with the law. Keep the registered and actual weight under 26K and you do not need a CDL. ipb.global.registerReputation( 'rep_post_83449', { domLikeStripId: 'like_post_83449', app: 'forums', type: 'pid', typeid: '83449' }, parseInt('0') );

The low range is not the issue; I'm just not sure its worth doing the conversion when you will never really need the extra gears. And it will probably put off a lot of potential buyers if and when you ever decide to sell it. When I was on the job it was just a pia to keep shifting the damn things so they would keep moving down the road. It might be fun now, but between looking out for all the crazies trying to outrun us and figuring out where we were going a 10 speed was not a fire truck drivers friend. I guess that's why we went to the "stand on it and steer" trannies aka automatics.

John, Great looking rig. Any of the usual rot/rust problems those Hahns were known for? Are you going to put her back in her original markings? I cannot imagine that you would ever get in low range with a 10 speed given the torque of the 8-71 and the light weight of the rig. I drove a 2500 gallon C cab Ford with a 3208 Cat and a 10 speed Road Ranger that managed to get by in high range unless it was loaded. Nowhere near the torque and probably heavier since it was a tandem. We also had a rescue with the same chassis and the only time you needed the low range was when you wanted to impress someone with your driving prowess or to start on a hill. It's not quite the same, but you might consider putting a two speed rear in it if you are adamant about wanting more to do while you are driving it.

I know that asking for help diagnosing a strange noise you cannot hear yourself is like calling the Doc and asking him to cure your ailment based on what you tell him on the phone, but I'm pretty much at wits end. The noise sounds just like a loose piece of diamond deck vibrating against the frame. It occurs primarily at higher speeds when I let off of the accelerator. I thought it was a set of bad bearings in the transfer case causing the parking brake disc to chatter against the shoes. I replaced the bearings and marked the disc to ensure it is not contacting the shoes. It is not. The u-joints are all tight and the differential seems tight. I cannot feel the vibration in the shift lever. And yes, I have checked all of the diamond plate to make sure it is bolted down tightly. The truck is an open cab, so trying to pinpoint a general area that the sound is coming from is damn near impossible with all of the road and wind noise. Has anyone had a similar situation occur? Any thoughts on the cause, no matter how random, is appreciated.

That's a neat looking machine. What are the details?

I would be surprised if it weighs much more than 20K, especially without water on it. Is it gas or diesel? Diesel will weigh a little more, but I still doubt it approaches 26K. Write to the Mack Museum with the chassis number and they will send you all of the information they have on the rig, including delivery pictures if they have them. The information will include the weight of the rig when it was delivered.

FWD is absolutely right. Members of FD's, both career and volunteer, die in tanker roll over incidents every year. Many of them caused by home made units that fail to comply with NFPA standards. If you insist on using what is basically an unsafe piece of apparatus at the very least you should remove all emergency warning devices and limit the road speed to 1/2 the posted speed. And before I'm the subject of ridicule over the speed limitation most department's average response speed is around 30 MPH, so the speed limit doesn't affect reponse times that much. Unsafe apparatus places the public at risk as well as the responding members. Remember the old adage: The emergency is theirs, not yours. No one ever got killed by driving too slowly to an incident. And last, but not least: When you operate a piece that does not comply with any NFPA standards, current or past, you are placing yourself and your department in a precarious position from a liability stand point. Is it really worth exposing your personal financial well being to the risk?

That is a great story and it really speaks to how this hobby can bring families together. I hope everyone here takes the time to read it. In addition to the smaller R Model dump at Macungie there was a very well done tandem IH of a similar vintage from Worcester, MA. I do not have the contact info., but if you look up Worcester Sand & Gravel they will be able to put you in contact with the owner. The other contact would be the Mass. chapter of ATCA. Good luck with the restoration.

Cal Little had several grill emblems for sale at his table in Macungie. You might try him. I don't have his contact info, but he is listed in the resource guide at the Mack Museum web site.

Super rig! Welcome to the club of the mentally afflicted and perpetually poor. Now all you need is a vintage lowboy and a nice AC to haul on it and perhaps a vintage dozer or tractor; and the money for a divorce lawyer.

Well deserved. Your rig is beautiful!

I don't disagree, but no matter how much money goes into the restore any rig is still only going to be worth what the market dictates. That is why most restored rigs are not "worth" anywhere close to the cost of the restoration. My hats off to the purchaser if he got what he wanted, but I still don't see 57K for that truck.

When we were at the Macungie show I asked Barry from Watts Mack about any repair shops he knew of that repaired air wiper motors. Here is the link he sent me: Dana Abshier Air Wiper Repair

I don't believe so. The auction was held because the owner was convicted of securities fraud and was ordered to sell off his assets to re-pay the investors he defrauded. It looked to me that he had the rig done to treat his kids or grand kids to a fire truck ride. It is telling that he never used the rig after it was re-done. As several folks commented at the sale; It's easy to live like this when it's someone elses money. Sending the truck and a check for 100k to a rehab shop was "chump change" when I heard numbers like 80 Million tossed around for the amount he stole.

I agree. A lot of things suck about getting old, but one of the most aggravating is having to wear glasses while trying to work on something just to read the damn socket size. Picked up a set of Gear Wrench flex ratchets. The 1/2" promptly broke at the socket square. Been waiting since November for a warranty replacement from Fastenall. Do not but Gear Wrench if you need something reliable or deal with Fastenall if you want warranty service.

There must be something nastier than blasting parts but I haven't found it yet. I wish I could find a reliable reasonable shop in my area to do my stuff.