Ezrider

started cutting a buffing, only got one panel done so far and its only buffed with a cutting compound but here is a before and after of that before after

the car is most the way back together now

yeah my xjs is a early facelift car, after the tail light and interior changes but before the body colored front and rear bumpers. in the us i think the xjs is a highly under valued car at current. i only paid $2250 for mine granted with some bad paint work and some other minor issues but very solid car. bought it and drove it 2100 miles home. super nice super low millage cars sell 10k with some exceptions +/- and they were a low production car they were made 1975-1996 aprox 120k cars made in that time with about 31k convertibles produced 80k coups and roughly 5k cabriolets ford cranks out more mustangs in a year than jag did for the entire production run of the car. I feel the value of them will go up over time but i have mine because i like it less so than the value of it. carlot, 300 would have been my next guess looks like the second one has a little rot in the rear 1/4 but both cars look very restorable.

they look like they could make some real nice cars done up, what are they? Chrysler imperials? newports?

looks like a old factory photo, very nice

my mack is a cx613 e7 460 with a Eaton fuller 13 and 3:70 rears i pull belly and side dumps with it and on 7 axles 96k gross. it does pretty good. its no 6 1/4 cat but its pretty easy on fuel and pulls decent, im pretty happy with it. my other truck with 350 hp didn't pull as well at 88k as this one does at 96k the 13 has a much lower 1st than the road ranger 9 in my other truck witch helps a lot as well. lockers are a big plus heavier rears are a big plus i don't see a need for double frames though for dump trailer work.

if the question is will the truck get the job done, yes. if the question is should that be the truck you get, its not the specs i would buy for that work

i hauled belly and side dump with a 350hp 11.1L Detroit and a 9 with speed and 3.73 rears for a long time, it was slow but got the job done and was less than a pleasure to drive

nope no paint booth, there is a small amount of inclusion in the paint but nothing a cut and buff wont take care of. iv shot cars outdoors before and still had good results, i pushed pretty late into the night i shot the jams let them dry a few hours un masked everything and re-masked everything and then shot the body all in one day by the time i finished shooting the clear i was having some trouble balancing adequate ventilation and still keeping enough heat in the shop. my the time i shot my final coat of clear i was barely holding 60* inside.

i spent about 5 days on prep work and shot everything in one day it was a pretty straight car to start with some little dings here and there but no major dents, and absolutely no rust. i still managed to miss a couple really small dings that i didn't find till the clear was on but there super minor im probably the only one who will ever notice and i drive the car its not going to be a show car. the paint laid out real nice its going to be a breeze to cut and buff this one out. im going to get the whole car back together first though just figure i will let the paint cure out and if i put any stuffs in it putting it back together they will be taken car of by the wet sand and buff anyway. i like them xj-6's if i didn't already have too many vehicles i wouldn't mind having a early xj-6 some partially put back together sunlight pictures today

them trucks are looking good

if you got the money honey...lol

i have a jaguar xjs that i bought about a year ago with a very poorly done re-paint on it. after i got it i cut it and buffed it but it was beyond salvageable. so the plan was to re-paint it as soon as i got the time being that it was factory glaicer white and had been repainted black, all the jams and everything needed to be done anyway so i decided on jaguar catkin pearl metalic finnished shooting it this evening

head lights, marker lights, panel dimmer, lights on the back of the cab, not the original switch could be anything, (something someone added later or replaced a factory switch), cruse control, cruse set and resume, should be the jake break, shut down overide, wiper high low, wiper delay, heated mirrors

i heard that as well. i think the one that was destroyed in the bridge jump had a Chevy motor in it.

id rather have the kw myself.

maybe rent a jack hammer for a weekend and get some young collage kids needing some beer money?

i like the 379's over w9's becouse i feel the interior quality and fit/Finnish and dash layout are better on the petes as well as the ride is better and the turning radius is slightly better on the petes as well.

i think the truck looks great

go home mack your drunk

good luck at the new job. I left a extremely good company driver job before i became a o/o. when i left they told me if things don't work out to give them a call and they would give me my old job back. It defiantly eased the mind a bit knowing that you are leaving on good terms and the worst you can do is end up back where you started. glad your previous employer is understanding and that your leaving on good terms. on a side not sorry to hear about the volvo

im a little confused, the light your talking about is it the low air light? or break lights on the back of the truck? do you have air pressure in the tanks?

2700 miles, 30 stops and 3 weeks, and O/D and a o/o pulling it, I hope that load paid good and the guy didn't haul it cheap just for 2 seconds of fame.

to get as low as your wanting you going to have to notch the frame your axle will hit the frame long before your as low as your wanting to go freighttrain, i read your thread nice work on your truck, and your sig pic does not do your truck justice.