steve s.

The patent numbers are not the VIN numbers. Patent numbers are virtually useless. Most vehicles before the 1970's were identified by serial numbers. B66 gives you the best info on where to find them.

Yes, the frame will handle a diesel engine. The obvious choice would be a Mack, and if you had another B model donor truck, the job would be fairly easy. Otherwise you are limited only buy the tape measure, your skills, and your wallet. A lot would depend on what you plan to do with the truck, and what you want it to do for you. Will it be a play toy, or work for a living ? Do you want big power, or economy ?

Penn, Mack built their first bus in 1900, but did not build any trucks until 1905. What do you have ?

I have not seen it, but I have been told of a 4X4 B model built the way you describe in Mass. It has a duplex trans, and army truck axles. The truck was used to spread fertilizer in fields. The typical Mack has straight air brakes, not hydraulic. The Mack PTO is generally driven off the main box ( 5 speed ) but can be driven off the compound if the case was machined that way. You probably have a PTO access on the transfer case, too. Go for it.

Terry, If you go to the "wanted" section of this site there is a current thread where someone is looking for an ED model ( slightly lighter than the EF ). One is offered for $40,000. I really don't know the value on the open market, but your EF looks very good and should bring a high dollar. I have some old photos of a wrecker like the EF that was for sale back in the sixties. I was just a kid but I wanted to buy it, but I was shot down by my parents. Steve

Your site looks very good, Josh. We all like pictures, so keep them coming. Does the B 53 have integral power steering ? Most B 53's that I've seen do, which is a real nice thing to have. Keep up the good work. Steve

Daniel, You have a 34,000 lb bogie. Steve

I have a friend who owns an MB which came from the factory with a 413 Chrysler. It has since been replaced with a 360

Joe, Your H63 is a great looking truck. Of course it is your choice to do with it whatever you want, but for what it's worth ,I think it would look odd with Budd wheels on it. The only way I can imagine aluminum wheels looking right on such a classic model would be old style 5 hole wheels on the front axle only. Steve

Jim, Look in the photo gallery. Check out" Mack trucks from Haukes Kekerdom the Netherlands" by Pieter78. There are some good pics of N models there.

And Happy New Year to you Paul. You are making good progress. I'm curious about your chassis preparation. Did you do any abrasive blasting or sanding/grinding/wire brushing ? What is the rust stop/primer product you used ? The photo of the chassis in red primer looks real good. On the other hand, the engine looks pretty bad. Do you plan to install cylinder sleeves? Is that why you are looking for standard size pistons? Steve

In Pennsylvania, a truck 25 years or older is eligble for an antique license. The one time cost is $75, but you are restricted to using the vehicle only for parades, club events, and the like. Hauling equipment is not allowed. Pulling a trailer is permitted by the state, but some antique vehicle insurers do not allow it, some do. If your insurance carrier does not object you can haul antique trucks to shows with a truck licensed as an antique. The process of getting an antique license can be tricky, in addition to the paperwork, you have to submit six photos, and then some clerk decides if your truck is worthy of an antique plate or not ( at least it seems that way ) the bottom line is : if your truck is unmodified and has a good paint job it will probably pass the test. Forget the KW, go for the R model, and good luck. Steve

Jeremy, The engine is tilted to the side to give it a lower profile in short BBC trucks like the B 67, or C models. It was also used in MB and F model cabovers for the same reason. I have a B 61 that had a tilted engine installed and I think it really makes repair work more difficult; less room between the engine and the frame on the injection pump side, and generally awkward to work on the bottom of the engine at an angle. Of course if you don't need to work on the engine it doesn't matter. As for a B 57 being more valuable than a B 61, that's anybodys guess, if it's in the shape you want at a price you like, just buy it. Steve

It looks to me like your engine is either a 673 P, or a 711, judging by the split intake. Maybe some one knows better. Another basic thing to keep in mind is that even number models were built with gas engines (B 42, B 60, etc. ) and diesel equipped trucks had odd numbers ( B 61, B73, etc. ). A lot of gas engines were replaced in later years with diesels, so like Freightrain says, the serial number may not tell the whole story. There is also some meaning to the letters following the first letters in your serial number. For example an S indicates a tandem drive, an L indicates Lightweight components, an X indicates an extra heavy duty chassis and so on. What is your serial number ? Steve.

Greg, You mention using lead substitute in your A, which is fine, but I think if you do some research you'll probably find that gasoline did not contain any lead when your truck was built. Lead became a popular additive in the late fifties, mainly for use with the high compression engines of the day. It could be that oil had no ZDP additves when your truck was built either. Steve.

Ossablt, The numbers you list are for the dual reduction rear axle carriers, which could have been used in a few different bogies. My service manual shows CRDP 92 & CRD 93 used in the SWD 57 series bogie rated at 38,000 lbs, the SWD 571, SWD 572, Swd 573 series bogies rated at 40,000 lbs. The 40,000lb models differ by having presed or cast steel housing, and or bronze or rubber trunnion bushings.. As for build sheets, I have them for three trucks, all three are different, and none show the axle weight ratings. The bogie numbers are found in different places on all three also.

.

Engine2, I sympathize with you. Personally, I would not go directly to the federal regulations. I would first get very familiar with the wording of the law to be sure that there was no provision made to allow for "special vehicles" . If no such provision was found, I would go to whatever lengths necessary to prove that my antique truck was not a commercial vehicle. The simple answer to one question should ( HA HA ) prove your point.... Is the vehicle used in any way to conduct commerce ? Another question would be... Is the vehicle licensed by gross weight ? if not, then it should not be subject to inspection laws based on its original GVW. I know that things are never that simple with politicians or bureaucrats, But if you are familiar with your states definitions of " commercial vehicle" and the new law you will probably know more than the person telling you that you need to be treated as a commercial vehicle. If you have the will to battle , you will have a lot of learning to do, and the outcome is not guaranteed, But personally, I would raise hell and make myself well known before I'd pay someone $100 plus to inspect my antiques. Yes it takes a lot of work, but if we are ever going to slow the pace of people trying to cram nonsense down our throats, we will have to work long and hard. While we are busy living our lives, there are people working around the clock deciding what they think is best for us and they seem to be making "progress "at an alarming rate. Good Luck, Steve

Ossablt, I don't think you can tell from the build sheet. But the axle numbers from the build sheet can be looked up in the service manual to find the weight ratings. Do you have your axle / bogie numbers ?

Paul, You may have already done this, but I looked through some back issue of Wheels of Time, and found two trucks that are close, but might not be just what you want. The first is a 1929 Six Speed Special in Kansas 620-662-3296, it has the early six speed sheet metal, not the A series styling of 1930 +. The second is in the latest issue, a 1924 model 63, a larger truck, in PA , 717-487-2499. I'm guessing that you are looking for something like a " Red Baby " or a truck with similar sheet metal. I have seen a couple for sale over the past couple of years, but of course I can't think of where they were now, but I will keep you in mind. Have you tried a post on the early IHC website ? Good luck in your search. Steve

Mackniac, I misspelled the name,it is Pieter78, and this is the address : http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php? autocom=gallery&req=user&user=794&op=view_album&album=610 if it helps. The title is : Mack trucks from Haukes Kekerdom The Netherlands. Good luck

Mackniac, Look in the gallery, pietrer78 has a bunch of photos you may be interested in, from the Netherlands.

Ossablt, S is a tandem axle ST is a tandem axle tractor LST ia a lightweight tandem axle tractor Steve

PaulBrook, I have little to offer you other than encouragement. I have great respect for those people that can take something in the condition of your Mack and turn it back into a respectable antique. To buy this vehicle in the USA sight unseen and ship it across the ocean puts you into a very small and elite group of such people. When the day finally comes that you take your first drive in your Mack, you will have done more to earn your sense of accomplishment than most. Your website is very interesting and well documented. I'll make a point of checking back to see how things are progressing. I wish you the best of luck . Steve

Thanks guys. That is the water pump I have Glenn, and HK I think you are right , somebody just stuck in the engine they had. But it makes maintenance so much more of a pain in the neck I wonder why they did it that way. If I do put this engine in a different truck it will be straight up . Steve