steve s.

I have a 673 NA diesel in a B 613 (not original, I know ) that was installed on a slant, like you would see in a B 67 or a C model. I am preparing to overhaul this engine and maybe put it in a different truck. Is there any reason that it can't be mounted straight up ? Is it as simple as rotating it one bolt hole clockwise at the bell housing ? The oil pan and pump appear to be the same as in a B 61 I have that is mounted straight up. The engine leans to the passenger side and makes working on the injection pump or air compressor more challenging. I even had to drill a hole through the firewall to get the last push rod out before removing the back cylinder head. Does anyone have experience with this ? Thank you and Happy New Year to All. Steve

Well there not as strong as I was Hoping. but that'll do. there 5.77 ratios, and far as the tranny, it says Its DIRECT in 5th Direct, but in 5th Hi-split its .85 final. so guessing its an overdrive tranny. . Robert, All of the compound boxes have an overdrive gear, but the main box could also have an overdrive in fifth, which yours does not. So technically you have a direct transmission. Steve

Robert, SWD57 is a 38,000 lb bogie. It sounds like you have a transmission that is direct in 5th. The build sheet should tell you what model you have. There are some good road speed calculators on the web that will answer all your gear/ rpm/ tire size questions, do a search and find one you like. Steve

Jakebrake, Like Glenn said some one will probably need that rotary injection pump for parts and I might just be the guy. If you decide to change over to the APE pump and injectors, let me know if you want to part with the PSJ. Thanks . Steve

Rusty , Try looking here - http://www.oldmacksrus.com/registry.htm for serial numbers close to yours to get some idea of your trucks year. Remember that each model had its own series of serial numbers . Steve

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Eagle Eye, The background history of the problem is in an earlier post with a similar title, if your interested. I'm glad to hear your opinion . The air compressor was one of the first things I checked - took off the bottom plate on the crankcase - but everything looked ok so I didn't go any further, but I could do more to be totally sure it is not binding up, and since it would be an easier task than my other possibilities, maybe I'd better do that next. Thanks Steve.

Rob- the starter has been out through the whole process so far, I kind of wish that was the problem. Glenn- Yes I have tried my tests with the clutch disengaged, just to eliminate it as a source of trouble. As for the rods, I took each cap off one at a time , pushed the rod up just enough to clear the crank, and tried with my bar to turn the flywheel. I am now sure that none of the rod/piston assemblies is the cause of the problem. I did see in my manual about the connecting rod side clearance you mention, but it seemed to me that it would not be a critical thing on an old worn engine, thinking that the rod would find its own "spot". But I will follow your advise and set it with feelers when I torque it up. I do have the cover off the front of the inj. pump gear an I will check for back lash. Thanks again, Steve

Hello again, This is a follow up on my 673 diesel that broke down in my garage and will only turn a bit more than a 1/4 turn, back and forth but no more. I've been working on it but still have not found the problem. As was suggested earlier I pulled the injectors, and found no anti freeze. I removed the rocker assemblies, no stuck valves . Pulled the pan (no sign of anti freeze or metal in the oil or pan) , Pulled the main and rod bearing caps one at a time , still won't turn more than that 1/4 turn or so. Oil pump is ok, tappets are all free to move with the rockers off. cam looks good, I don't see any metal chips or hear any noise when trying to turn it. Yes, the transmission gears are in neutral and I tried all of this with the clutch pedal in, just in case. The fan belts are off too. The process of elimination ,I think, tells me that what's left is the timing gears, the injection pump or some freak thing like a loose bolt stuck somewhere it doesn't belong ( like the flywheel ? ) . I'm kind of leaning toward the inj. pump, but I can't convince myself . I really don't look forward to pulling the radiator and the timing cover, or for that matter the injection pump ( this engine is not the original, it is a "leaner " tilted to the inj. pump side like a B 67 - not much room to work in ) , so if you have any thoughts on which of these jobs you'd do first, or maybe if I'm overlooking something, I'd appreciate your input. Thanks , Steve

Your frame looks great. Is there a reason why there are two cross members so close together at the end of the frame ? Steve.

6368, The only way I know about the bogie is from the build sheet that I got for my truck from the Mack Museum . If you haven't contacted them yet , it's a really great bunch of info they can provide, and I'd reccomend you send them a donation and see what info they have on your truck. Steve.

6368, I'm pretty new to this stuff, but I'll offer my two cents because your rears are similar to the ones in my B 613SX. The 11kha.... is the differential part number. CRDP 112 is the front axle carrier model #, CRD 113 is the rear axle carrier model. There is more you need to know to tell the capacity of the setup. Just for comparison, my truck uses a SWD 68 bogie (there are many different bogies ) and 5 inch wide springs in a stack of 13 leaves. This setup is rated at 50,000 lbs. Steve .

Thad, I had similar trouble trying to start my B after it sat many years, but my rack was ok. I had many, many air leaks. The fuel filter canister had to be welded 6 different times before I got all the pinholes. The priming pump bore was pitted and allowed air to be sucked in. The emergency fuel shutoff valve leaked. And most of the hoses leaked too. It was only patience and perseverence that let me find all those pesky leaks and fix one just to find another. But I did get a good education and I did not have to pull the pump, So I wish you luck. Steve

Thanks everyone. the problem is not the starter, it tried like heck to turn the engine , and yes I have already gone through the series/paralell switch and battery cables to get it running initially. My batteries are good and the 24 volt starter really gave it a good spin. Yes the bar is small that I'm using to turn that 1/4 turn but I'm quite sure that I'm up against more than compression. I did not even think about it being locked up with anti freeze, or to take out the injectors. That is just the kind of lead I was hoping someone would offer. I will get to work on it as soon as I can and let you know what I find. Thanks again, Steve

Hello, I have been learning a lot following the discussions here, and now I have a problem I hope someone can help me with. I have a 1961 B 613SX that I bought over the winter. The truck had not run in many years but after a lot of tinkering, I finally got it to run and backed it into a corner of the garage where it sat out the winter. It seemed to run pretty good and I had no doubts about the engine being okay. One evening last week I decided to start the truck. I used a little ether and it fired up quickly and stalled, as I had forgotten to push in the fuel stop. It did run long enough that the oil pressure guage was moving up past 20 psi or so. After another small shot of ether it fired right up again, ran smooth for maybe a minute or less, and stalled. when I tried the starter again, the engine would not turn. I left it alone until the following night hoping it was locked up on ether or the starter drive was stuck or something else simple. No such luck. I took the starter out and it is ok. I can easily turn the engine over with a small bar on the flywheel, but it only goes about a quarter turn and then stops again. It turns back and forth in that 1/4 span fine but that is it. I don't hear anything at all when trying to turn it. I pulled the bottom off the air compressor just to check it and it appears ok. I am stumped. I would think a spun bearing would not turn at all, and a broken connecting rod would surely make some noise. Does anyone have any ideas about this ? I expect I'll have to pull the pan , but is there a reason I should look in another direction ? Thanks, Steve in PA