steve s.

Of course I have no idea about your White, but we often forget that in the very early days of trucking the horse was still widely used. Many trucks were equipped with water tanks and used to "flush" the horse's manure off the streets in larger towns and cities. Good luck with your new Mack. It looks like you should be able to get it running without too much trouble.

Yes, Brocky, they are the guys in Illinois. I don't know about anyone doing Continental work in Utica.

It's nice to see another B model in good hands. Are you in PA ? I am finishing up a long term B model project of my own. I have accumulated a lot of extra parts that I no longer need.

Thanks for the pictures James. Finding an oil pump for the 330 Continental engine should not be a problem. That engine was not only used in a lot of trucks, but it had dozens of industrial and agricultural applications. They are very good engines, too. There is a place that might even have a new old stock oil pump, Home Page - Montes Equipment Here in the northeast there are still a fair amount of old Brockways with that engine to be found as well.

Welcome, James. I'll bet you father would be proud to know that you plan to finish the job he started. Pictures would be nice, but more important might be the model of your truck and its engine. Parts are out there, but sometimes you have to search to find them. This board is a great place to start. So tell us, did the truck run since your family has owned it? What engine does it have? I generally prefer to see classic trucks like yours kept original. But it's your decision, and a lot depends on what you plan to do with the truck when it is finished.

The Quadruplex has been out of production for a long time, but there are still a lot of them around. They were most common in B models and early R series trucks. Perhaps the most popular Mack transmissions in those day were the TR 72 or 722 series of 5 speed transmissions. An O suffix would indicate an overdrive in 5th (TR 7220). Any of these five speeds would have a compound gearbox attached. That gearbox would either have 2, 3, or 4 speeds. These were all two stick transmissions with basically 10, 15, or 20 speeds forward. Most had an overdrive in the compound. There were variations with fewer usable gears, but this is the basic rundown on the Duplex, Triplex, and Quadruplex. The clutch housing for an SAE 2 flywheel housing from any one of these transmissions should bolt right up to any other version. The "baby quad" that I have is smaller than the TR 72 series, it is a TR 770 and was most likely used behind a flathead six gas engine. This transmission would be fun behind a 12 valve Cummins or something like that. The Duplex, Triplex, and Quadruplex were found behind the Thermodyne Diesels and large gasoline engines, but they became obsolete with the introduction of more powerful diesels that required fewer gear ratios. What you are working on or trying to accomplish ?

I think it is very unlikely that Mack ever installed an L model cab on an ED truck. For one thing the L cab is much too wide for an E series truck. The earliest E models had wooden framed cabs. Maybe what you saw was someone's replacement for a cab with rotten wood.

Don't sell your truck! If you had oil pressure before your oil change, you should still have oil pressure. You probably need to bleed air out of the filter. Do you have the large full flow/ bypass filter? That is the one with 3 lines on the bottom. If you had some oil come out the vent, you must have some pressure. They can take a bit to get all of the air out as I recall. There are several places on the drivers side of the engine where you can pull out a plug and install a test gauge, if you need to. Good luck.

The short answer is yes. I can offer two examples; I have a B model the was a concrete mixer. The mixer was driven by a flywheel PTO. To make room for the PTO shaft, Mack used a #1 to #2 reducer at the flywheel housing, and a # 2 at the transmission. This truck had a 673 diesel and a double overdrive Quadruplex transmission. I have another transmission kicking around here that is a "baby quad" that came out of a smaller gasoline powered Mack. I think it only has one overdrive, but it will mate up to a # 2 flywheel housing. Steve

The 540 bore is 4-7/16", piston clearance at top of skirt .002", minimum ring end gap .016". This info is from a 1966 Motors Manual.

The H63 has been sold. Thanks for all of your interest. Steve

Terry, the pictured truck is not an International, although they did build trucks with the radiator behind the engine. Mack and International were never partners. Mack, Hewitt, and Saurer formed the International Motor Company. This was an entirely different entity than International Harvester Company, with no relation at all.

It is absolutely not a Mack.

sent you a PM

Coulton, if you happen to have the build sheet from Mack, it would identify the model and part numbers. Of course a lot of parts might have been changed over the years.

There are two units. 1. The carrier (differential) looks like a CRD-78. There is a flat area on the passenger side, I believe, that would have that number hand stamped in it. It would also have the ratio and a part number. 2. The axle housing itself has a model number, and there are at least 4 choices that used the CRD 78 carrier. they are: RAD507 ,508, 509, and 512. That number appears to be almost visible in your middle photo. Look on the back side of the housing, on the axle tube to the right of the Mack name. If you are trying to buy a pinion seal the housing number won't be of any help. Your best bet is to take the seal out and find the number on it. You will probably have to cross the old number over to something modern, but thee are seals available that will fit the CRD 78.

Near Nicholson PA.

1956 H63 single axle tractor for sale. 673 engine, 10speed Duplex transmission. Has the roll down windows in the sleeper. Licensed, insured, and driven a lot the past few years. It's a real attention getter, not many on the road. Not a creampuff, but can be driven just the way it is, or restored. I need room in the garage. Asking $6400 Located in NE PA call 570-two two two 447eight.

I bought Kirker "Mack Red" acrylic and synthetic enamels from the local Mack dealer and it seemed like the right color for my 1966 B model. Of course I can't honestly say it is the same as the original red, but who could? I will look tomorrow to see if there is a number on the can, but I do know it said Mack Red.

This LJ was parked at Casterline Diesel Service on route 118 in Sweet Valley PA. Vlad may have seen it there more recently than I have. Don Casterline owned the truck and he told me he had plans to fix it up. He is a very talented mechanic, but he's also a very busy guy. He may still have it, I don't know. His phone number is 570-477-2224.

Let me begin by noting that I didn't say he did anything "wrong". There are always better ways to do things. A person's approach to things makes a lot of difference, too. If I was trying to start a 1975 Ford F-150, I might have used the same methods as he did. But to me, a 1926 AB Mack needs to be treated like a one of a kind machine. Number one rule- do no harm. Here are some things he could have done to prevent or reduce the possibility of damage: Pull the oil pan first. Don't mess around trying to flush 80 year old goop out of the crankcase. Even with the large inspection holes to look in, there is undoubtedly crap he missed. Baffles and trays hold gunk, and what about the oil pump pickup screen? I would want to see that it was clear and clean. Pull the pan, and clean it right. What if the cam was rusty and ready to wipe out the tappets ? How would you know if you don't check? Taking spark plugs out with a pipe on a ratchet. Can you think of a better way to break them off? He is lucky that he didn't, but that last one was squeaking dry, and he just kept turning. A better idea is to turn the rusty squeaky thing back and forth while applying lubricant-much less chance of pulling threads or snapping something off. And then when the plug came out- several ounces of his rust busting liquid went right into the cylinder, dirt, rust, and all. And then he pulled the head. He let all that crap go into the cylinder for no reason. He could have taken the plugs out on the bench. He really would have been better off to take the magneto off the truck, and made sure it worked on the bench. He could have turned it with an electric drill, and saved himself a ton of needless cranking of the entire engine. And by the way, when he was cranking and cranking to check for spark, he had all of the plugs in. It sure would have been easier to crank with the plugs out, no? His use of starting fluid was amazing. Not only did he use way too much and too often, but he when he was attempting to start it for the first time, he could have sprayed some fluid into the spark plug holes to use less and get it where it needed to be faster. The last thing I will mention is that he ran the truck entirely too long without any coolant in it. He could have done great harm to his piston rings and cylinder walls, and he would never know it. Even if the water pump leaks, put some damn water in it or don't run it so long. Remember, do no harm.

Yes, he did get it running. As for being " insanely good at rescuing cars and trucks" that is debatable. His approach is pretty crude, and not really the way an antique truck be should handled. He did several things that may have done more harm than good, but I guess this is the kind of thing that sells on youtube. On the plus side , he is learning, and he may have saved a great old Mack from the scrapper's torch, so I have to give him credit.

I do not have a diagram of the tightening sequence. You really don't need one. With almost any cylinder head you should start in the middle and work your way to the ends of the head, alternating from side to side and front to back as you go.

I don't know if it is the smallest bulldog or not, but I have a small one. It is in the picture next to a full sized bulldog . Is this what you are looking for?

According to my Motors Manual the cylinder head torque for the EN 510 is 130 foot pounds. There is also a note that says "short studs 100" .