Mackpro

This would be "for testing purposes only" not to be left on the engine WINK WINK. Thats my EPA disclaimer! I wanted to totally remove the EGR valve and oil lines to and from EGR valve, remove EGR cooler and mass flow sensor pipe, block off EGR valve and intake manifold connection. The only thing left would be the mass flow ECM behind the engine ECM with my plug-in with resistors. This would lighten up truck 40 lbs

I'm still working on a EGR system removal kit. Got the Mass Flow ECM plug with attached resistors to fool the ECM. The ECM will think that the EGR temp and flow are correct. Got the resistors from Radio Shack . Just been super busy around here. Boss man said I could try it out on one of the 04's when I get ready.

Dont feel bad we had a MRU brought into the shop on 1/6/10 and we finally got it fixed and out on 1/29/10. It had bad DPF problems, we dont know what we did to fix it other than throw lots of parts at it, but we go it done. The MRU and LEU (mostly garbage trucks) have a totally different DPF system on them due to low exhaust temp because of stop and go driving.

We ran into several 2000 Macks that did this. It turned out to be the starter solnoid on the starter. Mack came up with a service bulletin about it, sometimes it would set a 9-2 code but most time it happened so fast it didnt set a code. In a hard pull the engine would lean to the right and a pin inside the sarter solnoid would fall over and short out the battery cable/power supply and this would kill the engine and then the engine would lean back the other way and the pin would fall back away from the power supply and engine would run OK. This only happened on the big Delco starters not the little foreign made starters (those would just catch fire and burn the truck down)

This was true, it was a Y2K glitch in the Mack software. We only had a few trucks do it here and a software download fixed it.

Foe the most part the DPF's on the CHU/CXU and GU's have few problems. Sometimes on the 08 and early 09 versions that dont have the air purge/self cleaning 7th injector tou have to clean the soot off the 7th injector once or twice a year. The newer 09 and up have fewer problems. Engine issues cause most DPF problems, Bad turbo's, stuck EGR valve, over fueling/cracked injector can flood the DPF with soot or lack of air to burn out the soot. It can be a real pain to figure out. It's not a every day thing but it does happen. We have see this enough now to kinda know what to look for. Good luck and I hope they get it fixed soon.

Make sure the H-ring is straight and not turned or to high. The H-ring is the sleeve that is drove down into the block, it holds the lifter straight. Alot of the time if the engine is run enough with a bad lifter it will beat the H-ring up to high in the block or turn sideways. You can check it by pulling all the push tubes out the put a straight edge on top of the heads and running a welding rod down to the H-ring, then mark the H-ring height on the welding rod to the straight edge. Compare the heights to the bad lifter H-ring. If it is high sometimes you can drive it down with a punch otherwise you have to pull the head and install a new one. good luck.

Let me seek what I can up with later tonight

We are a Mack dealer and we sell chrome steel bumpers from Hendrickson for around $850 and new plastic Mack bumper is over $1000.

I think I could do those cam jobs in my sleep. The first round of cam jobs sucked because Mack wanted us to also change the cam bearings, then changed it to only if you can hang your fingernail on #2 and #5 bearing. Then the round of cam jobs where the locating pin on the EUP's rollers broke off in the block and the roller spun around and took out the cam. Thoses days are behind us I hope. Now its just when the rocker arm hold down bolts break and the driver keeps driving and bust the ceramic roller lifter and messes up the cam. I'm running the overhead on an CV with an AI in it as we speak and I'm replacing the bolts as per Mack service bulletin so I dont have to put a cam in this one later.

Anything "Howes" is good stuff. One of my best customers uses many of their products and he is very picky about anything he uses on his trucks. I use Lucus fuel treatment my personal cars, trucks and boats but none are diesel.

If I had all the money our shop made off me doing cam jobs on ETECH's I would retire today!

Probably a cam roller locking up and dragging on the cam lobe. We called it the "E-TECH Squeak". We could here the truck pull up to the shop and before the customer walked in the door the parts guys would be looking to see if we had a cam kit. Usually does it when hot and sometime only when you rev it up. Drop the pan and carefully look over the cam and reach up and feel the rollers.

Truck not speced correctly, as in wrong axle ratio, tire size and transmission. Any of these are not right it could throw the engine out of its HP/tourqe range. Also as FJH said it could be just a low power problem! What year/ engine style.

Glad you found it. The new ASET thermostat kit has 2 different thermostat's, one opens at 180 and the other at 185, that way they dont both open at the same time and cause a surge of coolant that causes coolant push. Also they have thicker O-rings so the thermostat housing dosent get a cold water leak in the winter time. Also we have seen the thermostat hitting the water manifold when installed. Mack says replace the water manifold with a new style with more clearance but we use a die grinder to make room. It wasnt an offical service bulletin but something the engineers sent me a few years ago. If I find it I will post it.

I was on my way up to Chicago to go to Mack school the first time I saw one installed, It was on a small fleet truck CX613, this was back in 2004 when we couldn't keep fan belts on the ASET engines. When I got back home I call our DSM and like I said above, he gave me the info. The CX I saw, had only one scoop and it was about 4 inches tall and 12 wide and 16 inches long. It was over on the passenger side of the hood up towards the windshield with the opening was towards the windshild. The scoop info our DSM sent us was also a CX but best I remember it had 2 small narrow scoops that were short, they were made by a vendor of Mack. I think it was Lund who built Macks sunvisors. It looked something like this http://www.lundlook.com/lund_car_product_detail_objectname_Medium_Pair_car.aspx I think the scoops were to let the hot underhood heat out not really for extra air intake, I dont think they were ducted into the intake passage in the hood. Of the 500+ email's I have over the years from Mack , I cant find this one.

Any pics of these on CH style trucks. Back in 2004 when the ASET first came out, due to excessive underhood heat Mack did have some unoffical hood scoops installed, our old district service manager sent me some pics, part numbers and install instructions, sadly I lost the e-mails some where.

You said it exactly "crap shoot" or "luck of the draw" as I have seen some trucks have tons of problems but on the other hand all my buddies trucks work everyday with little problems. I think it has to do with you buying the truck brand new and staying on top of the problems and getting them fixed ASAP. I really liked that CHN he was looking at! Axle forward CH style trucks are my fave.

Sad to say but it's not uncommon to have lots of warranty claims on ASET engines even the 05-07's. The 05-07's were alot better but we still have the problems with the EGR coolers and coolant push. We usually replaced everything, EGR cooler/mass flow sensor , water pump, thermostats (new style), oil cooler inlet screen and even installed new 1 piece aluminum surge/overflow tank. This usually solved everything. I talked 3 of my best friends into buying 05-07 CXN's and all were somewhat trouble free. The only real downtime was when a turbo would blow. All did have the coolant push but it never caused them to lose work, they would bring them in on friday night and we would fix them on saturday. 1 still runs his CXN every day, The other 2 traded up to a CHU613's with MP8 485HP after running their CXN's for 3-4 years. Now my buddies are all real picky, replace any thing needed, always change oil 10,000 to 15,000 miles, they do everything by the book and it really paid off in the long run. We never found any ASET's with low liners, I think Mack kinda got that figured out around 2002-2003 but anything is possible. Never had any ASET's with Wabco air compressors cause coolant push but had a couple 2004 ASET's with the Bendix compressor cause problems. All most all 05+ have the Wabco. Now the core sand on the 2000-2002 was a whole different story. If I were to buy the truck I would change the thermostats(new style), replace the oil cooler inlet screen, check the belt tensioners for off tracking (while running!!!!), adjust the valves and put the new style rocker arm hold bolts on, have both VECU and EECU ECM's programed with the latest software, and change all trans and rearend oils.

That a Mass Flow sensor. When the EGR cooler goes out it usually takes out the Mass flow sensor.

I was thinking the same thing, need at least tall 22.5 or tall 24.5 tires. I would be Ok if it had 24.5 wheels as you could go from Lo-pro to tall rubber if needed.

That trans does have a .71 overdrive in 18th gear like most Mack trans so it would be OK. Maybe alittle more trans than you need for on-road use. However most Mack 13 and 18 speeds Macks are exactly the same trans except for the shift knob which lets you split the low side. The T318LR is only different from the T318 by having a lower gear in 1 and 2, the rest of the ratios are the same. This truck is probably kinda heavy as it has the 200 series Mack rears.

Last of the VIN is not correct last 6 should be 00**** something. I know they didn't built 655 thousand CHN's. If you find out the correct VIN (last 6)let me know.

On the Mack if you have the dealer uncheck/disable the anti-tampering setting then you unplug the speedo sensor on the rear of the trans, the truck will now run without any limits ( as fast as the gears will let it) but the speedo/odometer will not work and you might get a code for open circuit on the speedo circuit. On every truck we sell new and used we always turn this off so if the customer has a problem with there speedo or wiring it wont limit their power. However most fleets have this feature turned on and it is usually passworded. We buy alot of fleet trucks for resell and I have to redownload the ECM's to wipe out the passwords. The easy way around this is if you had the anti-tampering parameter turned off,(but mph set at 65) you could cut one of the two speedo wires and run it into the cab through a toggle switch the back to the speedo sensor. Now when your running down the road flip the switch and go as fast as you want. Get checked by DOT, flip the switch everything back to 65mph. You can use your GPS/nav for a speedo, the real downfall is no odometer.