mrsmackpaul

Outhouse would be called a dunny here Paul

I am the same, I don't bother trying to do anything myself with a radiator unless Im broken down somewhere Last R model radiator cost 5 grand Australian to get recored Yeah it's a lot of coin but nothing compared to the cost of a motor Paul

White smoke to me is either timing or air in the fuel People smarter than will have better answers Did you have the cam out or timing changed Maybe something has come loose and shifted Paul

Compressor??? Does it suck from the intake ? If you can maintain 1800 revs on a climb your not over loading it at all Guessing as you suggested, it might be time to rod the radiator out A dipstick from a automatic transmission works well, no sharp edges Paul

Great stuff, I think the secret now is to use it as things seem to give a lot less trouble when used often Paul

We only live 3 1/2 - 4 hours from a capital city If I hit the road at 4am I might pass a car every 1/2 hour to hour Head north a bit into Western NSW and even during the day I wont pass a vehicle in 1/2 hour or more Into western QLD and it's even fewer Now if I head west or into even more remote country during summer I can drive all day and pass maybe 1 other vehicle The Nulabor plain were this photo is taken the traffic is a lot busier and yet it still isn't flat out The Nulabor was fully sealed in the 70s and highway number 1 the goes right around Australia in the 80s So maybe think about this The Nulabor has the longest straight stretch of rail line and road in the world 100 plus miles with out a bend so its pretty easy to see traffic and Australians are pretty good at taking charge of things like this without officials Paul

I collected parts for many years before reckoning I had enough to tackle my bucket of bolts Paul

I didn't see the old new out or the new in, slept thru the lot Bucketing down rain sideways again at the moment Miss Molly is sheltering in the bath room and masive thunderstorms A very interesting start to the day it all this year Paul

Don't think it would of been, Macks big corporate HQ in the capital cities look like that I have driven past Champions plenty of times but never stopped for a look I would feel a bit embarrassed to pop in for a sticky nose Paul

Just the R model with the steel front Legend has that when the fiberglass bonnet was available Mack Australia couldn't sell them, not tough enough is what Australians thought Well one thing lead to another and the once famous road train operator Noel Buntine was waiting on a new truck but no bonnets or mud guards were in Australia Cyril Anderson tried to talk him into a fiberglass bonnet and Noel was sceptical to take one Apparently Noel was given axe handle and told to see just how tough fiberglass was Turned out fiberglass was really tough and the bonnet lasted, when other Australian operators saw that Buntines that did a huge amount of off road work were buying these fangled fiberglass bonnets then others started buying them I dunno when the last Flinstone was sold to a owner operator but Im guessing in the 70s They look like they are from the stone age compared to the fiberglass bonnet As a complete side note, Australia had complete fiberglass cabs for the R and the F model for a short time as well because they couldn't get cabs out here quick enough so made the locally The extra 3 inches in a R model was first added to fiberglass cabs to give a smooth interior and exterior Paul

If link works it works, if it doesn't let me know 📸 Watch this video on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/v/jtdtJPxBSJce991k/?mibextid=adzO7l Paul

Progress, no matter how big or small the steps are is progress Something crossed off the list Well done Paul

A tipturbine motor is about 17 psi max Pyro only gets up there on big looooooong pulls, not steep hills but big gentle pulls for many miles Or at least thats my experience Paul

Bugger me, that's a bit of a issue Is it double railed or jist fatigued A lot of people build a shed first in Australia and fit a couple of baus out like a house to live in while the house is built They call these a shouse, half shed half house But I guess what ever you come up with will be fine Paul

I dunno if the same research was done in the fuel crisis of the 70's in the U.S. as was done in Australia But with out a doubt the single biggest factor for fuel economy was speed There were graphs and charts and all types of things To go from 55 - 65 took nearly twice the power just to overcome wind resistance So I wonder just how fuel efficient trucks of today would be driven at 55 50 - 55 was little change Under 50 wind resistance made little difference Personally I find it much easier on me to drive a little slower, a lot more time to react to things and Im not on edge watching the speed and the cops and well trying to pass people all the time And I always see the same vehicle's along the road that broke sound barrier passing me Paul

Sounds like you have a air leak in the supply side but when the motor isn't running it is getting siphoned back up the return to tank side This allows it to run for a few moments before it dies from no fuel Paul

Yes Joey, the same deal, it really is my go to problem solving fluid lol Paul

Either a air leak or blockage Paul

I can get pretty messed up on less than half a bottle of Beam I think Im fine but the evil eye of the Princess tells a different story Hmmmm Bourbon Miss Molly tabulating the fuel useage for me Paul

I dont think that can happen, the cowls are different shaped, the Flinstone look becomes quite appealing the longer your with them Fiberglass is just same same after awhile Paul

320 coolpower, even pulling a road train at max load it is never worse tuan 4.5 MPG Running along empty with the float on is 7 plus, single trailer fully loaded is 6 - 6.5 MPG Speed and wind resistance are the killers, no faster than 60 MPH for good economy, thats why in the fuel crisis days of the 70s the limit in the U.S. was 55 MPH I believe and a little bit slower here Paul

I have never seen a 5th wheel that slides in Australia I have me a feeling they are not allowed out here for what ever reason Swishman will know more than me about this stuff But yes if the 5th wheel can be slid then forget my long winded drawn out procedure and put the scales back in the kitchen for the cook Paul

I'm very late to the party here Only thing to be careful of with running beads of weld to pull liners is the crank If the crank is still in the block and a booger from the welding gets stuck on the crank it can become costly This is normal only a issue on a inframe build Cut some thin tin the same width as the journal and wrap it around and a hose clamp You can then hook in pretty confident it will all be good I remember looking at Vlads photos some years ago with the from a Lanova motor in a normal workshop press, block was nearly as big as the press and I seam to recall took all press effort to push the liners home Some maybe dry ice for dry liners and the electric blanket off the spare bed on the block for a day or so might make the job much easier putting the new sleeves back in Anyways, this is not gunna be a in frame rebuild as the motors well and truly out of the frame now Paul

It doesn't have to be very far forward of the center, maybe only a inch or so It depends on the local laws a weight limits on axles Should be a full load on the steer when you have full weight on the drives This will vary on wheel base and laws etc You should be able to get it pretty much spot on first go Weigh just the steer axle no load Weigh just the drives no load Get some old style kitchen scales and a piece of say 2 x 1 wood long enough to measure your wheel base at scale you choose, maybe 1 inch equals 1 foot Then two kitchen scales, something like this Maybe use a 1 - 200 scale as in 1 pound on the scales equals 200 pounds in the real world One scale is drive axle center the other is steer axle Put the 2 x 1 on top with scaled wheel base to match the measurements on the stick and center these marks in the middle of each scale Load these up to match the tare weight From the gross weight your allowed to carry you subtract the tare Scale this weight to the same ratio as tare weight Then place this on the stick and move it along until the weight is in the ratio from steer to drive axles This is your king pin location This was how things were done before computers and trucks run at maximum weight By doing this you can't over load the steer but always have plenty of weight to make the truck handle properly Paul

Looks like a good beginning place, all complete and original by the looks of it Paul