mrsmackpaul

A Mack back end doesn't have a normal power divider like a Eaton or Rockwell or any other brand This is why Macks are so good off road The power divider locks and lets go, sort of, check out this link and it will explain better than I ever can https://www.roadtrains.com.au/tech-tips/how-a-mack-power-divider-works/ So the up shot of it is, when you rotate tyres about you need to measure them, this isn't some hair brained skippy the bush kangaroo I have been in the sun to long bull crap, it is true So measure your 8 tyres on your back end Now match the into the closest matching sets of two you can make up So smallest set goes on the left rear, the second smallest set goes on the right front And of the biggest goes on the right rear and second biggest goes on the left front What this allows is, because you don't have a true interaxle power divider, this allows the diff centers to compensate for this Before bogie drives had power dividers at all this was a standard procedure Hope this helps Paul

Actually I kept on searching and some photos do load up, so get on the Google and have a look see Paul

There was a thread on the Cat forum mamy years ago called "steal track farming" lots of cool Cats on that As I remember, it was mainly from Washington State area ? I just googled and it was "Farming with Steel tracks" I cant get the photos to open up on my phone, here is a link https://www.acmoc.org/bb/discussion-d72/5309-pictures-farming-with-steel-tracks?start=0 I used to be fairly involved on the ACMOC forum for many years If you can get the photos to load up it's well worth the look Some screen shots of a search I just did, but when I go to open the link the photos aren't there Paul

Is it a Mack back end or something different ? Paul

I think your right It has landing legs, I don't think quick release turn tables were very common then, I don't know if the even existed Pneumatic tyres would of been pretty none existent on big trucks at that time All photos of tanker trailers of that era are rivited together None the less, this is a very cool little trailer and would look right at home hitched to something from the late 30s onwards Paul

2) answer is, all the same oil 1) I can look tomorrow if it is of any help Paul

Just email the photos to your self on your phone and then try to post then Emailing the photos reduces the detail but the photos are still fine Paul

I think I have mentioned this before, I can buy a tubeless rim and tyre for a spider hub, fitted for less than the cost of tyre, tube and rust band For me it is a no brainer, I don't do a lot of miles so it's easier to justify Paul

I have double coin on my low loader, they are okay Paul

I reckon they would of sold good out here if they were available Swishman Paul

Why you blokes are worried about global warming, just think what daylight savings does Tyres get a extra hour of UV every day over summer in the southern half of Australia 😃 Paul

Swishmab, the first big Flinstones were, as in the 800 series Paul

The Olympics are becoming insane! Last night I watched Strippers V's Ninja's

Gotta love the old Flintstones, getting pretty thin on the ground these days Paul

Tah muchly Swishman Paul

If every alleged person that died from a wheel coming apart was true, the worlds population would be at least half I must have been knocking around the luckiest people on earth as I have never known anyone thats had a rim come apart, this inculdes the tyre service in town that I have never even seen a tyre cage on the premises Anyway, I guess a ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, stay safe out there Or people just learn how to do things properly Maybe we should remove all the warning labels and just let mature take it's course As for torque on the nuts that hold the cleats on, I reckon Swishman has shared the actual Kenworth procedure and it isnt anywhere near as tight as we might think I've done some searching and so far found some directions on spiders from Swishman Im sure there's more but you get the drift Tight enough they don't come off and not to tight that they strip the thread And check every few miles after having a rim off, 3 or 4 times and check they are tight This isn't exactly rocket science Paul

So Swishman you have had the old M ride and or T ride for a few years now How do you find it Paul

Yes there was many years ago on hear that a tubeless rim came apart, was rusted out and gave a decent whack on the knee As far as the letting air out before mounting or removing from the hub I think on a steer this would make it more dangerous as the removable section is mow facing you Once a split/demountable rim is inflated and the beed is locked in they are as safe as a tubeless Possibly even safer, a lot more has to go wrong on tubed tyre and rim for them to come apart than a tubeless rim once a tube rim is inflated and locked together Paul

Welcome aboard There is a Facebook page dedicated to getting the best out of the Anthem If your on Facelessbook it may provide some interesting reading https://www.facebook.com/groups/2198506597074278/?ref=share&mibextid=adzO7l Paul

Oh behave your self 🤪, bugger me the years have flown by Paul

It pays to remember just how long ago the late 90's was To me it was only was yesterday, but machinery it is a 1/4 of a century Were did that go ?? I guess, don't be to critical of previous owners Paul

Some thoughts As Geoff Weeks would say, fix any air leaks first But if it doesn't leak air, change the compressor, rebuild kits are available for most compressors I personally dont stuff about rebuilding them and just put a tested reco compressor on As Joey said PAI have just about everything you will need Mack, in Australia at least has all or any rocker gear you will need If possible, I would have the heads rebuilt rather than put a a used set on A used set is a unknown, a rebuilt set should be as good as new I personally fix everything that is possibly wrong when I have it in bits, it's off the road sdo fix everything Paul

There will be plenty of cracks in the heads, they will be all over the place Especially around the injectors Most times this isn't a issue at all, have them checked to see if they are leaking thru the cracks If all is okay then just have them done up Paul

Well done, zoom zoom Paul

Australia and New Zealand build the trucks im their respective countries The Australian and NewZealand Macks are very different than the north American ones and New Zealand are fairly different than Australian I guess our conditions in each part of the world vary greatly and even though the numbers of trucks sold in countries like Australia and New Zealand are tiny it is worth the effort to build them A lot of components are imported and a lot are made locally What percentage of each I don't know, but enough to be labeled as Australian made for Australian trucks Paul