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Everything posted by Lmackattack
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sorry man... this program I use at work needs the caps lock on all the time. half way thru my typing I notice its still in caps so I just continue just the plane old standard adj slacks. I never liked the automatic type on rock trucks Trent
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2000 Mack Ch 612
Lmackattack replied to Nightcrawler's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
5.5MPG is avg 6MPG if your good (slow and steady driver) -
THIS JOB WAS DOEN WITHOUT DRUMS AND WITH AFTERMARKET PAI COMPONETS, SLACKS WERE $20 A PICE IF I REMEMBER CORRECTLY? BUDD RIMS AS WELL AGAIN THIS WAS OVER A YEAR AGO AND DONT HAVE THE EXACT COST IN FRONT OF ME TRENT
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I have never pulled an end dump trailer with low side walls. Besides not able to haul quite as much without side boards is there any other disadvatages to them. Concrete comes to mind as it has a low tailgate as well?? Reason I ask is im looking to buy a trailer and found this one for cheep. The price is right and I dont haul much concrete. Specs Hilbilt Excavator Frameless. air tailgate. newer floor. needs paint and brakes. new hoist and hose. tires 60%
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a local shop that I bring my truck to get service done at gave me a good rate last year labor to install all 4 corners was around $230 I belive parts cast was around $400 slacks,shoes (no cores), hardware,s cams etc.. if you went to a dealer bring at least $1500!!! LOL
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The air ride dump trailers that I have pulled were frameless and 1/4 framed, and get air from the trailer tanks to supply air to the air bags (just like dry vans do) I can say that an air ride dump trailer rides like a cadillac compaired to springs. Even if the tractor rears are on springs it does not hop around and make alot of noise or buck the truck around. They also seam to stop better and do not wheel hop as easy. some if not all air ride dump trailes should be able to drop the air bags down when you open the tailgate. this is big deal! if the air is in the bags when you raise the box it can go over real easy.! The only need for an extra air line from the truck to the trailer is if the tailgate or other air options are plumbed seapretly from the trailers air system. like the air over electric tailgates as there is no extra hoses to tangel. when I flip the dash switch for the tailgate. a electric valve drops the bags and opens the gate at the same time. If your real trick then you can use an electric tarp on a dash switch. (still have to clean the spread pan!)
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another few truck pulls Boone county IL on thursday aug 9th 630 PM http://www.boonecountyfair.com/events.htm Wilmot WI for the kenosha county fair sat aug 18 http://www.kenoshacofair.com/activity.htm they bring loaded (pea gravel) cement mixers to this event and try to keep driveshafts in one pice. 6x6 and 4x6 set ups. some good carnage trent
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how far did it pull that night joe?
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My old RS did as I expected. It Dident pull great as far as who got 1st position vs last but I was happy as I was not far behind where the 300-400HP club finished. I have the fuel bumped up a little but I dont want to tear it up as the truck is a source of income and a hobby. We were hoping that "Last call" (the R685ST) would pull further than me as we had a big turbo hanging off the side of the engine and the local mack mechanic turn it up before the event. it came up 10 feet short of me wich isnot to bad considering it was pretty much an all stock 237. I think this turbo we put on is either to big to build boost or it was setup to run low boost on a larger engine? All we could get the big turbo to push was 10 psi and it sounded like it was working hard just not creating anymore boost? So we put a 350HP mack turbo on it last weekend and we now get 20 PSI. We will pull again next thursday and see if we made any progress. I put in a call to a local pump shop to see if we cant build up a spare 300HP pump and have some trick injectors made for the engine. if its not to much $$$ we may have some more tinkering to do
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What is the APE# stamped on the fuel pump for . is it a calabration for a specific engine. We have a few old spare fuel pumps but have no clue what they came off of. We want to put one on our pulling truck. hoping one is a 300HP model Thanks trent
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Brad thats a retired Tanzillo truck #5 That PJ his brother Anthony and I are building for fun and a few laughs. Mr Tanzillo was trying to sell it but he had no buyers for it all last year. So he gave it to us to mess with We tinkerd with a diffrent turbo before the pull but we think it was to big for the little 237 to spin as all it would do is 7 psi. The local mack mechanic turned it way up but still wouldent get the turbo awake. We put a 350 turbo on it from a truck in the yard tonight and it was making 20 psi so we might take it to belvedere (sp?) this thursday for a pull. Were not shure what a stock 237 turbo makes for boost anyone have a clue?? My truck pulled to 220 feet. spun the wheels all the way down the damp track. when the weight came up I stopped but the wheels kept spinning, tried to pull out of the hole in 4th low but the clutch said no so went back to 3rd low "Last call" pulled to 206.66 feet ..... slow out of the gate it started to wake up about 100' mark but the turbo dident want to get up. it powered out in 2nd direct Both trucks have a 6 speed an 4.17 rears. Maxville Trucks with springs get the traction but the air ride trucks can do just as well if they mess with the ride hight valves to over inflate them. There is a guy with 2 E9 superliners with lots of engine work that makes it to 290'+ almost every pull. The hitch is connected to the 5th wheel as seen in the pics. the hitch is 30" off the ground (adjusted) and the chains go to the bottom most part of the sled. Im not shure how much weight is transfered to the tandems when the weight is up?A friend has a 400hpE7 and a 12 speed he does pretty good as he has better gear selection than my 6 speed.Your E9 is a powere house just bring it to a pull stock to get a base line run, then if your not happy start spending mony on injectors and pump work, turbos etc... pick a gear that will get you to about 15-20 MPH if your cluth can handel it. dont pick to low of a gear as you will snap something alot easyer. Just talk to the other guys at te track. if like the guys i pull with they will help you. trent
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a few shots from yesterday
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lake county fairgrounds truck and tractor pull Friday the 27th located at Rt 120 and Rt45
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Rob i was told not to grease up the bushings as it helps push them out faster? i wonder what others think? My opinion is that they should have some lube to help them wiggle on tight turns but thats just my .02 As for the caps i have seen them snap as well (on my truck) i just bought new ones as mine were worn from old age
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I bought "mack red" from a local PPG paint dealer. if no one responds to this thread before i get back in town next week i will get the code off the my gallon can. i just walked into the store and they found the code for me. Trent
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seen a few black legends but green seams the most popular
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check the air lines first to see if they are kinked. If they look kinked or badly worn replace them. then look for a bad air cyl ( I belive the cyl is on the top cover?)that selects direct reverse etc.... If the cyl is good it could be a bad shift fork or bad rails again these parts are accessed through the top cover. My experince with air shift 6 speeds was that you would hear a hard grind if you selected a direct or low when rolling backwards or vise versa. also if I shifted to direct from low when rolling along it would grind kinda loud. at a stop the splitter should easly select the desired range with a soft clunk heard. just my .02
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"EDIT" look on the drivers side of the engine on the intake runners for a sencer tapped into the casting, or look for a rubber hose that goes to a sencer. I belive he wants to trick the sencer to make the engine think its working less/harder? ie computer adds more fuel/less fuel etc...
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Found it in my back yard last week. i had a purple 65 3 years ago but some vandals tourched it wile parked in a construction yard. will look real good trailerd behind my 65 B when ever i get done with it http://invite.filmloop.com/x?u0m8EMc8Ho4KN.../9Hcn9QCCUul2lH
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THANKS FOR THE INFO guys. I have a solenoid from a R model dash that I will be using for under the dash on my B. The wierd thing is that my RS I dont hear that "click" when I turn the key. I will have to check to see if there is one there? I know the temp guage will not work if the jey is off but all the lights, acc, and pretty much the whole elec system works with the key off?? I should have the fuse panel tomorrow and start wireing in a few days
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Im installing one of those painless wiring fuse blocks this weekend. I also have a silinoid i want to install that will turn the system on with the turn of the ign key. how does this all wire up so that the fuse panel is hot only after the silinoid is actavated. I assume that the ign has a hot lead after you turn it to "run". this hot lead should then be wired into the silinoid to turn on the fuse panel? does this sound correct? if so then where dose the hot lead to power the fuse panel wire up to? sorry if its confusing to explain
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What Do You Think Of The New Ulsd Fuel So Far?
Lmackattack replied to Barry's topic in Odds and Ends
I blame this ULSD for all the fuel leaks that I have now. Injectors,delivery valves, lines etc... Im chasing all these issues about a month after the fuel came out But its good for the enviroment and that makes me feel like want to go hug trees -
you have it labled correctly... you back off the nut on the left. turn it out a few flats then grab the rod and twist it untill the left nut makes contact with the bridge again. then hold the rod steady and tighten the nut on the right. the correct way would be to flow test the pump to see how far beyond spec it is but it will do the job and still be safe if you dont throw to much fuel at it. The RPM adjustment is under a plate at the bottom rear of the box. Be safe and remember to count the turns of the nut or rod as you may need to reset it? Not shure of the diffrence between american and robert bosch pumps?
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undo the lock nuts on the rod (located the right side of the gov box when facing the side of the engine) and turn the rod a few flats(of the nut, ballpark 2-4 flats) then tighten them making shre the rod does not move. If I remember you want the rod to move towards the front of the truck to get more fuel. someone correct me if im wrong on the direction for more fuel.. now watch your boost and EGTs and make shure its not to much. also watch your wallet at the pump LOL :bmod1: Trent
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Premo restoraton job. Larry I bet you had a smile ear to ear sitting in that truck
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