AZB755V8

No. Only Brass

Where are you located? I got a real nice early 70's Pete bubble top 36" aluminum sleeper. It is perfect condition in primer, no dents or corrosion, had it for 25 years. I was going to use it for my B but changed my mind. It would look really good and match the round cab top of your B. I sort of promised it to someone but he has not picked it up in a year. If your interested I will check if he still wants it. You pick up $750 Phoenix, AZ

https://www.eriksmilitarysurplus.com/index.html In cab Hardware Section $6.00 each

South Bend Clutch did my double disc pusher clutch years ago. They put heavier springs in it and ceramic friction material instead of organic as original. A huge difference all around and a really good job, no more slipping clutch even at peak power. I had my flywheel resurfaced locally. Have them rebuild your pressure plate and disc with better materials than original 1955 stuff. South Bend Clutch 709 W. Jefferson Blvd. Mishawaka, IN 46545 574-256-5065 www.southbendclutch.com

You may have heard this before. eBay has new Econodyne emblems regularly. More pricy than I remember but last ones sold in September around $60 each, there were 2 listings. I got 2 Econodyne's there a few years back for $25 each. Couldn't believe the deal even then but NOS emblems. Just looked to see Watt's Mack right here has Econodyne emblem in stock for $130 each Maxidyne emblems, good luck at any price. Last sold here for $100 each in 2015.

I'm just sort of curiously ignorant to this point of view but on the same topic. How could Mack use Super, Cruise, Ultra and Value to begin with. These words have been used millions of time before. Then add liner to make a new word. There is no issue with creating a new word and not subject to Copyrights. No one has claim to any word or portion of. How about dyne as in Thermodyne, Maxidyne, Econodyne? On the same train of thought, would there be an issue with dyne? Then add Therm, Maxi, Econo? Amtrak started the Superliner in 1979 even though Mack used Superliner first in 1977. A copyright is a collection of rights that automatically vest to someone who creates an original work of authorship like a literary work, song, movie or software. These rights include the right to reproduce the work, to prepare derivative works, to distribute copies, and to perform and display the work publicly. Not arguing but meant to inform

This was posted here in "Trucks Wanted" in January 2020 "I have a nice Ultraliner with E9 500 12spd Mack 11/24.5 on aluminum buds. 1990 Rob 403-678-7882 Ab Canada." Give Rob a call and go from there. He may have it or know of where another is at.

What are you looking for besides a V8 MH?? Complete, running, needs work, restored? For parts or to drive for fun or work? Single or tandem axel? What you looking to spend? Most of the MH's in Canada had V8's. Got two from there a few years ago with under 150k Kilometers on the clocks, needing work but both complete. Sure there are still some left. Back in Ohio and PA there was a bunch with V8's too. This way narrows it down to help you.

Think this is what you are looking for on the V-pumps used before 1991. Actual AMBAC tags on the pumps. The pump number should start with 8VBB1100 for the V-pumps.

Nice and Clean! Is it the same Osborne form Wyoming? If so how is it getting in and out of Aussie land these COVID days? The cab looks a little strange by the cowling. Is there a different cab on the Superliner? Almost Certain it is a V8 with heavy rears.

It would be Great if the cut-off you are getting had 10.5 rails, it would save a lot of work. There are different types of Newway airride, does the set-up you are getting match the one for 1985? Think the right one is a long underslung type and have it on a 1985 MH I am working on. Someone else may know better on this point. As for value, it is your truck, do what you want and not worry about what someone else wants when you sell it. It only worth what someone is willing to pay for it anyway. As long as you do things right it will always be worth a good amount. I will say there is a Huge improvement in airide suspension over camelback. Epecially if you are bobtailing more than not. It is not original now so don't worry about it. It will be a Mack Magnum with Mack rears and newway airide. I got newer Neway airspring on the superliner now and reframing/restoring it soon. It will have 1994 Mack airspring (Neway copy) with Rockwell rears and going to 270" with a 72 inch sleeper. I found a CL713 double frame in Great shape, years ago, only rust was under 5th wheel mounts. It was going to be cut up and scraped, said I would give $900 with the Mack suspension still on it! It is the same frame as an RW just has about a 8 inch extension on front of rails that will be cut off. All drilled same as the RW as well.

I would say that Smalls1184 will not reply as he has not been on the forum for a year and a half. My Superliner is spliced and a Great job. It was spliced to 245" with Rockwell Lockers on Neway airride for sled pulling. The cut-off was left long to add to the wheelbase. The slice is about 4 feet long and goes as far forward as where the stock frame bellies. The stock rails were RW613 9 inch profile 1/4 thick and what was added is like 10 1/2 profile 5/16 thick. Cut-off rails were slid over the old rails, cross members at each end of the splice, though bolted and ends welded inside and out in 4 places. You really have to look to see the splice to the rear. The front is in back of the fuel tanks so you can not see it. This way you don't have to drilling for everything except the 16 bolts that go though the crossmembers. Keeping everything in tact. The angle iron rails for the horns is mounted between the two crossmembers. It worked out well. Yes there are 6 Nathan Air Chimes and sound Great! The end result.

A little off topic but... Here in AZ No historical Plates on anything over 10,000 lbs (Total weight) so no truck trailer combinations. Have to use a standard Commercial Plate over 10,000 lbs. There is a one time Permanent trailer plate for under "declarered" 10,000 lbs. My trailer is 9640 lbs empty. I put 10K on the trailer and 70K on the Mack, $1540.00 per year registration for weight. The show trucks don't pull trailers so just put 12K lbs on for weight and like $40 per year registration. That said, the point is (hauling race car) is a no, no here without DOT Numbers. Best to have PLAIN truck and trailer, NO STICKERS or anything. Tucson is the worst in AZ. I have seen it a few times down by the race tracks. Enclosed Race trailers (with contingence stickers) and open trailers with races cars (some with contingences stickers some without) pulled over by AZ State Troopers (They are Pricks). Reason you are making money with the use of the truck and trailer. You win one round for say $20 plus maybe contingence money, have to have a commercial plate and DOT Numbers for commercial use. So yes races do get busted for the stupid stuff just to have a little fun. Sort of like having a patrol car outside the local bar but race track instead. Totally off topic: Got pulled over in Tucson of all places. Trooper: You know why I pulled you over, Me: I have no clue to why you pulled me over. The Reason and Last thing on my mine: No mud flaps on a 1 Ton dully. I did have a Race engine in the bed and getting off the next exit to the dyno shop. Think they just hate Races there. I said it did not come with mud flaps so why do I have to put them on to come though Tucson? Not even jacked up from stock height but Trooper said I was. Trooper said: Well seeing you are from up North in Scottsdale, I can just impound it or you got 24 hours to get them on and show proof or get an out of service registration notice until they are on. Had them on the next day.

Second that. I used a 4 row CL radiator in my Superliner, Bolts right in. If you recore there is 2,3,4 and think 5 row cores. If cooling is a problem go with a larger row core. Easy to do with bolt on tanks.

The tank saddle brackets do not need moved at lease with the Mack round tanks. The steps would be in the wrong place to use a round right tank on the left side. A shorter Left tank is needed. Mack produces short aluminum and steel B-Model tanks for both sides. Maybe a steel right side tank could be used, fuel cap would be reversed though. In this installation a reverse frame bracket was fab'ed up to match the right side. The tank is a 55 gallon left hand Mack tank that matches the right tank. Stacks are straight pipe 5".

A good reliable engine, diesel or gas, is a Great thing. The manufactures spend a lot of time and money to make it so. Then add in the Gov Reg's for fuel economy and emissions, etc. It is a true balancing act and computers have done a lot for that. If more power was needed the manufactures would move in that direction. Running Right has a different meaning to Guys that what more but it is a fine line to get it right just ask anyone that Races. In all cased durability goes down and more maintenance is needed to keep it all running. For cars 650-850hp is not uncommon these days with computer controls. Who needs that power... well no one really but there is a market for it so it is available. There is a Tesla 1000hp and insane torque electric Class 8 truck in the works, is it really needed?

Yes, the stuff I have is for play and show. To have modified stuff to make a living is rough these days. Speed limit is still 65 MPH on the interstates. Tickets are traceable though out the states and expensive to. It is fun though pulling a grade with a load as if on the level. Passing everything going up the mountains. Are you talking about an E7 or E9 with your project? An 80mm is on the big side with a 1.45 A/R housing for an E7. Bottom end torque will be poor due to keeping it spooling it up and EGT will be high. Depends on turbine size though. The lower compression will help with more boost for sure. I cut my heads around the valves to get that with better air flow not the pistons

Just a note, cracking the throttle on this E-9's does more harm that good. Any diesel will blow black when the puff limiter is disconnected. True test is rolling on the fuel under load. The idea is to have minimal smoke and increase in power. I can sure put on a show (rolling coal) and attract usually the wrong attention. Remember there are big fines for emissions violations in most states. That said you have ways to go to get the set-up right. Yes the turbo is to small for the amount of fuel, if pump is turned up all the way, nozzles are to small, timing is very critical, governor needs work, fuel return valve needs changed, etc. along with other things. BIG Note: With more power more heat, valve seats fall out and destroy the head, piston, liner, turbo, expensive fix! How do I know! About $6000 in parts and down 6 weeks if I did not have the parts and do the work in my shop. Still was a 20 hour fix. Mack Dealer did not have a Tech that EVER worked on an E9. Not doing it right for some FUN.. but I learned real quick.. Have fun but know that changing one thing means changing a lot of things to get it to work properly and with a lot of left foot moderation (REAL Important) to not break other expensive things. Have a spare engine, clutch, driveshafts, etc. for parts...👍

Agreed with that and second it too. There is always trade offs with modifying anything Durability and reliability go down as horsepower and performance go up. Everyday truck I would not mess with but a hobby or occasional run truck why not? Can't do to much anymore with emissions and all anyway. Heaven forbid some black smoke comes out of the stacks on a old truck these days. Just get a bigger factory engineered engine and all is solved, just sayin...

I like your V8 emblem wonder where you got the idea? Best place to get the small dogs is on ash trays believe it or not. Most all are in really good condition as well.

I don't know about check valves in filters but from personal experience. To start the only way to loos the prime is for fuel to drain out of the fuel galley in the injector pump. The only way that happens is that air is getting in to the galley. Stop the leak to maintain the prime. There are a few ways this happens and a few more than that if the first few don't Geter-Dunn. I work on older engines so some of this may not apply to the newer stuff. Goes without saying, Check and tighten all fuel line connections. First, to check if equipped the manual hand primer. The o-rings in them leak after time. Just replace it, real Bosch replacements are under $35. Second, the charge, lift or little pump the primer is attached to, what ever you want to call it will leak internally. There are 2 little plastic disc check valves in it that wear and leak fuel back to the fuel tank. The disc can be removed and sanded flat again with 600 grit wet sandpaper. Finish be rubbing them on a matchbox cover to polish them with a little rubbing compound. Third, The fuel return valve on the side of the injection pump is not sealing when the engine is shut down. This is were the fuel return line from the pump is attached. There are several different styles ranging from $15-$250 to replace. There maybe several other lines connected to it from the fuel injectors drains. It is not repairable and would need replaced. Last if fuel lines are old they can have micro cracks in them and leak air in when not under pressure. Replace the supply and return fuel lines. These are the EZ fixes I have done. If one of them don't work then onto a second round of fixes...

No... No They offered way More>> Maybe a few ratings for the E7. Adding Renault had E9's, 360, 400, 440, 450, 500, 520, 530, 560, 610, 625, 750, 900, 1000 horsepower and I think 850 and a few more. So it was all Renaults: What day or week is it and we can make any horse power engine to match.... Why, because we can or could at the time. Think it was more of a European thing or way of thinking more anything else. Then add the E6 and other non-Mack engines like: Cummins, Detroit, Caterpillar, there is every horsepower you could think of.

Well I thought I had one good spare set of manifolds/turbo mount. I was getting the part number off the spare casting for Vlad and.... HO...CRACK... Did not notice them them before sandblasting & Ceramic Coating. Not one but two that go all the way though to the inside surfaces. Crappy Cracks... well have to start looking for a spare now along with Vlad. This was the liquid to air intercooler on the Superliner. It was connected to the air to air intercooler on one side and to the engine on the other. It worked good for about 45 seconds then the water was almost boiling using a 20 gallon tank. 2 water inlets and outlets 1.25" Diameter. Flowed 60 gallons a minute. Intercooler tank that was in the chain locker behind the cab. It is a 20 Gallon tank with the pumps inside. The set-up is off the truck now. Just no need for it on a road truck with just 45 seconds of usefulness before boiling the water. Truck pulling or Drag racing it would be Great. A lesson learned. The tank engine will have four liquid to air intercoolers and a 100 gallon fuel tank converted to by the water reservoir.

The boost will be there. The Turbo technology since these engines were built has come light years ahead. The Garrett turbos on the E9's normally had boost in the low 20psi and narrow RPM range. Todays turbos will make 65-70psi and a broad RPM range. The Single Turbo on the Superliner made 60psi and spooled up at 1800-3500rpm's then just starts to fall off up to 4000rpm with the old Holeset. Now with a new Borg Warner SE500-91 it is 65-70psi, gauge needle bounces a lot. 1200-4000rpm range. Think I now need liquid filled pressure gauge? Look close on the hood to see the Superman E9-1200. That is NO Joke and the power is to the ground. The flywheel HP is 1500 from the Mack engineers specs/recipe that it was built to. Pump was done at Antrim Diesel years ago. This is with air to air into a water to air intercooler. To the right that is a 91mm Holset T5 that is long gone, number 8 cylinder dropped and ate a valve seat in Cleveland, went though the turbo, and kept on rolling into Phoenix 2000 mile later on 7 cylinders still passing just about anything on the road. Of course there was a "little" extra smoke form the stacks. Heard about it a few times on the CB, I just said give me five mile and you will never known I was there. The boost that I will be OK with is 120psi for the Tank engine project. The engine will spin at least 1000rpm over the 2500/2600rpm military governor so stock turbos may not get it done before running out of air. The truck this is going in is a MH Ultraliner for a few reasons. The engine will be moved back about 2 feet to where the frame narrows. Engine will still be under the cab. The reason is the turbos will hang down on the outside of the frame rails and not interfere with the front tires or steering. I will have to angle out the turbos to get the clearance with some custom wedges between heads and manifolds. No frame alterations except making it a single axel from the Canadian spread tandem it is now.

The 3 pumps are ready to go to the pump shop this week along with 3 sets of injectors to get cleaned and pop-off pressures set. One stock set is getting military nozzles, one set already had them. They were in the tank turbo mockup engine and the V-Pump was turned up to Max. The third set is for competition only and duel feed units capable of 2500hp plus. These should be fine but just want the spray patters checked. They will be used in this Quad Turbo engine along with the 14mm pump. The damaged P-pump valve holders will be replaces with Bosch parts. Aftermarket ones are about $30 each but I am not thrilled on them. I do have the Socket to remove them as well but it is off to the pump shop anyway for recalibration. Vlad, If you look on the pallet the four head manifolds are laying there. Those are the only Exhaust manifolds I got with this engine the other pieces were gone. I have one complete spare set of E9 manifolds that I am saving for the other trucks that I have. Manifolds are hard to come by in good shape. Take a photo of your turbo mounting section. From your full engine photo the turbo is off to the right side a lot. Knowing that it is opposite a Mack application it may be the same part or easy to modify, it would mount on the bellhousing in the same location. It was a rare rainy day here, a prefect day to go to the shop and get a little more mocked up. Cool tank manifolds, the right side is a three piece unit. The reason is exhaust cylinder pulsation. What that means is the small turbos are split or divided housing units The way they work best is to have an even left/right exhaust pulse for the corresponding cylinders. Mack engineering did their homework, true Factory Hot Dog Stuff. The left side is a two piece unit that is split as well just not the same as the right. Not the single log manifold, as seen on the pallet, that is on all E9's in truck use. Heat shielding that I will be reusing are stainless honeycomb military spec. Right side manifold, have some work to get the large turbo to fit with the parts I have. It has to be moved back a few inches and up a few as well. The electric engine brakes is going by-by, to much exhaust restriction. Right side three piece manifold. Got the Large turbo almost in the right location for now. It is a open entry T6 mount. Actually these turbos are very close in size the the single turbo used on the E9-500.