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The one at the front behind the blo by can is the quickest 3 inch i1/4 pipe-nipple and an elbow adapted to what ever gauge you have ! you need to take the top off the bloby can to install the nipple!

If you have a Mack 18 speed in plug the switch on on the cylinder on the back torque limit switch may have failed and caused a de rate

There was a tsb on this issue I think ! the front cover flexing or something like that if I remember right!

Please!

That's shitty Bro ! but at least you found something! We just did a cam a month ago there were two e up pins sheared off and the the eup lobe was destroyed on number one ! at least you can see when the pins are broken the H rings are almost impossible to check!

Yup ! You have to change the arm on the side of the trans !

Bro ! Volvo construction version trucks have used this stuff for years here ,in Canada it seems to be ok! I've heard very few people bitch about it! Ive heard the springs can break with out warning how ever that's hear say and as with everything Volvo its Pricey to repair! our last garbage truck order from local district here had all M ride See how it goes 5 years from now! everything is built to throw away these days so the suspension will likely out last the emissions systems two fold!

nope no tricks for that dilemma

Sorry never tried it so I don't know ! Jojo they caution about dropping those ceramic lifters as they break or crack real easy! Just Saying It don't take much!

Valve cover gaskets are a pain on these ! When you put your new gaskets on clean the the gasket surface on the lid to a shine buy some edlbrock Gasket cinch/ contact cement . coat the valve cover and gasket once with the contact cement let it it go off then coat them again let it go off then stick the gasket on to the cover put the cover on the engine DRI don't use any sealer dri and clean only!

Your on the right track Move in firing order to the next cyls! not unusual to have the odd tight one! Push down on the exhaust adjuster to get the oil out I usually break the jam nut loose turn the adjuster tight down then back it off one half turn then set with the 24 !this gets all the oil out of the slave and avoids a false set!

yup if its a 4 valve there is two pointers valve set pointer and a timing pointer Be careful to use the correct pointer

Yup ! That is the engine brake slave! 24thou!

the problem advancing is that the advance will work in all the wrong places on the power band it was programed for!

push rods are different on ceramic would cost you to covert !

Bro don't start throwing stuff at it till you have things looked at ! There at way to many things at play here! To guess with out experience !You may get lucky with the parts canon but for accuracy you ne a little experience! If its a fueling issue it is possible its injector cups! Its important to give the whole story when talking about these issue when and how often cold hot starting any codes ?

use the valve cover spec you say its there ? 6 degree is what they usually are!

which air line are you measuring pressure at the two lines at the rear cyl run the range the two that go to the lid run the split which can be operated any stick position!

You were stopped pretty close to that Volvo trash unit there hope Mrs Mack didn't get Any Volvo Germs! She may have to go get a shot for Volvoitis!😂

You will likly need a complete donor truck with a wiring harness to suit but quite doable!

Note the closer to the floor you set the clutch brake the better off you will be specially if you got multiple drivers that don't know what a clutch brake is for ! I also heavily coat the clutch brake with grease for this very reason if the driver is unaware when and how to use the clutch brake they can Ruin it in short order! Hence SET IT AS CLOSE TO THE FLOOR as you can! Again my opinion just a rule of thumb!

This is just one of many ways to set a clutch ! others may argue how ever it works for me! Your correct its almost impossible to see on a Mack so this is my work around! 11/2 free pedal is equal to the 1/8 gap your shooting for at the fork! First set the clutch brake to work right at or 3/4 before the pedal reaches the floor with the arm adjustment on the out side of the trans! Then set the bearing to trans clutch gap with winder on the clutch to get the 1/2 inch gap between the bearing and the clutch brake! (You can use a half inch drive socket extension as for guide for this ) you should end up with aprox 1/8 gap at the fork its not written in stone you can have two inch of free pedal but the clutch will engage lower on the pedal on the way up and the the fork gap will be a bit larger ! The half inch gap will determine where the clutch starts to Engage and the 1/8 at the fork the smaller the gap between the brake and the bearing the closer to the floor the clutch will engage the larger the fork spacing ! the key here is to not have continuous pull on the crank it will over time take out engine main bearing thrust washers! not a great thing! seen this happen a few months back very expensive! YOU NEED TO HAVE FREE PEDAL always! Just sayin!

Joe Unfortunately the diagnostics on todays units Rely on computers almost totally! Because they took all of our other senses away, no smoke to read , nothing to smell the normal noises we are mostly used to are all covered up by the after treatment Garb! Your blind! you are forced to believe what the screen tells ya! You can rely on past experience and the computer screen with this stuff And some times it comes down to parts Cannoning because your at wits end With dollar store sensors ect ! Guessing game!

check the power supply into the fire wall drivers side!

unfortunately You may have injector cup problems ! it would help if you post how this issue developed if it has been getting worse over time! its likly cups if it started all of a sudden could be a fuel primer pump has failed!