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The first 400 Hp E9 were Maxidyne As the horse power increased they dropped the the Concept for what ever reason probably emissions ! Thanks for t dispelling my roomer by the way It was just the way I heard or perceived It! 🙄

ya your likey right ! and likley will be working around it ! Can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear! 🙄

When I get a chance I’ll pull the cover a check into the pin and Clevis idea I kind of doubt it cause the extend acts abit funny also when operating it with the boom and it is foot control!

I've Tried at several RPM Full and half pretty bad in most all positions Rpm wise! You really have to concentrate on the levers to feather them if you pull both in full its pretty even level wise trying to compromise speed with level not so much real bad in fact! Thanx for the replies by the way guys! Any advice is appreciated! Not knowing what the machine should feel like new and not knowing history makes it hard to tell lack of skills is another issue ! Lack Expertise is also in the mix! Like anything EXPERIANCE is very helpful! Likley a mix of operator and worn out machine! may have to do one function at a time to avoid Breaking things Its pretty violent at times! Also to add the extenda hoe gets jerky as well! I thought maybe starving for oil??? Duno? the filters were changed not long ago!

Well Guys for those who were following the bellow 450 JD Post Updating the 580 purchase here !Just getting around to making some use of the hoe and So as one might expect the old case didn't come with out its ghosts! I am not an operator by any means But ! The boom seems like its on a hair trigger when you try to operate it up or down And when you try to feather the stick and boom everything becomes very jerky Makes for a not smooth machine to operate Is it just the operator or is there something a guy can do to curb this feel! hydraulic tank is full! swing and curl seem good power is OK it is Old ! but it will easily lift the machine of the ground !Is there something I should be looking into curb this issue! just wanted to pick the brains of any of you that have had one!May have to just live with it I don't want to install a new pump if this is the issue think it is over 2000 here And I can just work around it for that price! Thanks

Should likley throw a code if it was a pump ! Check out Joeys theory First then clean the crank sensor ! and the block grounds! I lean towards a fuel pressure issue too!

The injectors should be pulled! in my experience fuel leaking at the line at the head, alot of the time its coming up the return side of the injector past the oring and the fuel lines are not the issue they seldom fail ! Just sayin! and with the stumble Replace or pop test as Joey mentioned ! Wouldn't buy lines till I replaced at least The orings on the injectors or the injectors them selves! by the way you need only the top two orings on the injector the third oring is not necessary they will only supply you with the two orings and the sealing washer now! I have used this technique with good results! ( As you install the injector snug the injector into place then loosen the the hold down leave it just snug Then tighten the line . then torque the injector after the line is tight this allows the injector to self align if it needs to before its torqued ) Just something to try!

The fuel transfer pump is a good possibility! The hand primer mentioned By joe there should prove this theory! The crank sensor could have a build up of clutch dust and fragments on it remove and clean that! Clean the block grounds under the starter! all easy stuff to check! before using the parts canon ! AND AS STATED No Ether.....

In my opinion don't shortcut the job! If you got good mileage out of the first clutch stick with all new stuff start over! If the trans is programed to start out in 4 th have it programed to start out in second or manually select it ! specially if your pulling any kind of weight! much to my dislike of auto. these trans are pretty tough and like anything they have a weak point or two! If the trans has a 2 speed reverse option resist the erg to shift it on the fly! It can shorten the life of the synchro in my observation ! I have been away for a year or so now and things may have changed some however ! Mackpro the man here still at it and has the best advice ! I am just a sidewalk superintendent Now! Just an opinion!

Just be careful here ! Before you get carried away ordering parts! Check your cam shaft and lifters before proceeding! I Have seen a failed lifter cause this issue!

So the M drive clutch replace can be done by most any mechanic! The problem is you need to know what to replace! Which is almost everything inside the bell housing including the flywheel YES It will need to be calibrated ! The job is not cheap to do! and unfortunately you would likely best off doing it at the dealer! Trying to cut corners by not replacing the clutch actuator is not a good idea ! This is one of those jobs you want done right from the get go!

Correct! It still has Volvo written on it!

Quite similar!

Everything is behind the catch tray under the windshields be carefull taking the motor bracket off the bolts / screws can be a bitch to get out!

yup innovative Repair!

That originally had a filter bowl attached and was deleted due to the awkward nature of its placement! You could try replacing the oring!

Dorman 285-5500 Fuel Transfer Pump, Electric Fuel Pumps - Amazon Canada

Transfer Pump Amazon Dorman pump 370 bucks Canadian!

Plastic drive is the norm! Pai is an option for a source!

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YUP!

I second the liner protrusion! That era of engine had liner protrusion set too low! for the horsepower! the spec got change in later years from low spec ~ 19 to 23 if you can achieve 25 or above is best!

1 and 6 are on the same path! One more turn will get you where you need to be! Set the valves off the marks on the damper 1 5 3 6 2 4 valves rocking on six you will be close ! Use the marks on the damper! 1-6 5-2 3-4 !as for oiling make sure the correct oil pedestal gasket was used during over haul there are several difrent versions! Don’t sweat the valve looseness on back up it’s likley dynartard cam and that is there for a reason!

Welcome to the site! You should posts some pics and questions! there Are quite a few here that will likely be able to assist I Personally have never worked on an L however there are several guys here that got them an would likely share their insight!

The only method I can think of is to pull number one injector and use a rod down the hole as mentioned by Joey I totally get not pulling the Valve cover specially if you got no leaks they can be a real bitch at times to reseal! I also can identify with it being in a B model not the nicest thing to work on!