fjh

The dowel on the engine side is meant to go on the pumpside where the cut out is on the hub it will be in time or at least where it was when you took it off if your putting a diffrent pump on then YOU should time it! put the dowel faceing you so you can see it and put thr hub cutaway in the approximate same spot Approx 2 oclock i have found is the best location for install DO NOT pull it in with the bolts if it wont go in up to the bolt flange IT AN T IN RIGHT!

Ya it will be interesting to c how the hackers do with the newer stuff m drive and the like! Very complex and intertwined abs stability control avoidance control bla bla !

Yes MR model

Check the torque limit switch on the trans unplug it!

Guys just so you don't feel left out I have a customer that spent 35000 on a KW AT KW last year (Cummins) Finally got fed-up! Did the delete thing and has never looked Back ! However IF you get checked there could be hell to pay! He was of the mind that its a Dam shame A guy has to Choose between breaking the law And Going Broke and that seems to be the was things are going ! Either way a win win or a loose loose!

That sucks! Expensive VA K

Bud By what your describing throws up a red flag in my mind Either the clutch cable is stretching OR If it has several inches of free play and no clutch brake and it is engaging near the top then I think your shop of choice has be messing with external adjustment!!!!!and calling it A CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT ! ! NOT! Take the time to do what we have been saying here. and you may save yourself a thousand bucks or two changing out a clutch that is perfectly OK just ill adjusted! OR get them to do it with the instructions here! JUST SAYIN!

The only time this doesn't apply is with a unit with hydraulically operated clutch fork If you adjust the internal on these they will for the most part preposition automatically after a few pushes of the pedal !

There are many factors at work here ! However as usual it comes down to the MONEY ! Mack KW Volvo Freightliner Don't mater ! an in house part is a captive part BEND over boys you gona PAY! They will offer you a extreme Warranty but what they avoid telling you that the clutch and associated parts are wear item s and your on the hook for them Oh by the way any wear on the fly wheel is unacceptable it will have to be replaced! the clutch actuator is worn we will need to replace that as well and the price for those will be over 5000 across the counter pricing not including labor and re calibration and computer time . yup and your Right they have created yet more drivers that don't have a clue cause they don't need too have any skill ! Don.t need to know how to stop got ABS , don,t need to check brakes Got auto Slacks ,Don't need to know how to shift got auto trans! Steering is Next on the list and there working on it Boys! Won.t need to steer Got GPS for that ! Oh Wait Don't Have a job I.m not needed! Something else to think about!

This part of Kev's statement says it all ( You have to genuinely care about the customer) And The big V don't give a rats ass about the customer OR its Dealers! They are simply interested in the money they can suck out of both !

Thanx for following up alot easier than pulling the fork!

Quite honestly guys if you think about It really don't mater which order you do them the end result will be the same how ever linkage first you will avoid doing the internal one twice! The fact is the the linkage governs the clutch brake squeeze as stated by Glenn! Right now he just wants his clutch brake Back and Have offered several solutions!

( Usually ) It will have PTO stamped on the back of the case if it has the hollow shaft for the rear PTO!

So first take the cover off check that that the clutch brake is not just spinning on the shaft if it is you need to replace it! If it is still splined to the shaft Proceed as follows because the arm set is maxed out PLAN B I would loosen the jam nut behind the clevis at the arm back it back 1 or 2 turns then remove the clevis pin and turn the clevis back to meet the nut you just loosened now re fit the pin into the clevis and arm and try the clutch brake! if you run out of thread on the clevis PLAN C loosen the Rear most nut on the clutch cable Sheath two turns or so Then tighten the front nut!The objective here is to make the fork closer to the throw out bearing assuming you still have free pedal! once that's done and once you achieve clutch brake you will need to reset the clutch with the winder on the face of the pressure plate so you have a 1/2 inch gap between the clutch brake and the bearing face to achieve your 1 1/2 free pedal that you should be used to having by having a properly adjusted clutch! There is a plan D AND E how ever Last resort! Don't want to go there unless forced too!

For a fuller trans yup! On the mack they provide an adjustment on the lever if that has become seized ( Likely Why no one wants to adjust it for you ) you can remove the clevis pin and wind the clevis in several turns that will shorten the cable in turn that will give you more clutch brake and less free pedal! once you got the brake where you need it then you can set the free pedal with the adjustment provided on the clutch itself . IF its not a solo clutch!

Make and model of truck? for (most) normal trucks this is a linkage adjustment?

We have no more beaver pelts to trade so we have to go with the absolute cheapest thing possible !

the valve set marks are on the fly wheel remove the cover plate on the bottom of the housing turn the engine clockwise till you see valve set numbers and a line place the line dead center in the hole firing order 153624 make sure you have overlap on the opposite number cyl in the window 1-6 2-5 3-4 are paired so if your setting 1 you need over lap or tight valves on 6 and so on and usually the valve set lash 16 intake 24 exhaust but changed a tad for some years check valve cover lash is usually on the tag! Good luck

Agree! The Short list! Fuel lines are metric. the drive hub likely won,t fit the mount May or may not be drilled for rob bosch! There are likly lots more oddities!

yup missed ya bud!

Also be aware that if you decide to go with oem there are 3 different grades of chair light medium and severe duty we just did a severe duty on a RB cement truck last month took out the light duty one .

Its q pain how ever with bolts out try get the non lever side out first it has no key! the clutch arm has to has to come off as you need to remove the woodruff key on this side and have to turn the shaft to get to it!once that is done the shaft will come out far enough to remove the fork! You will likly have to remove the rear motor mount to get the drivers side shaft past the frame! you have a CL it has thick mounts it will gain you loads of space

it can be done!

I mainly have nothing but respect for guy? So knowledgeable,hope everything is fine also.if your out there budy chime in!

James Me thinking the same thing Normally KS would be all over this Anthem propaganda thing! He carries the same opinion of the mother M/V group as myself.