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Not sure ! Unusual For sure! I have rebuilt a dozen V8s never run across that situation, usually cracked counter bores! I agree run with it the way it is! I generally use Ultra silicone under the flange How ever in this case I would use anaerobic as I said! Again just an opinion ! Be aware that there is an oring bulletin for the liner orings I may have it posted here on the site here Can't remember! just search it!

Do have any machine shops in your area ? I honestly think you need to square that bore properly ! you ve gone to the expense of getting a liner kit and repairing the heads ! If you were a customer in my area I would recommend Cutting both counter bores under that head and and shim them both to 3-4 thou I'm not sure if shims are even available anymore have you checked? How ever you say you had no issues before so if it ran before with out issue it should run again I.m not saying that with confidence however just that in my mind you have two choices ! bore and shim or leave it alone ! Half shiming Could be a disaster If that's what your thinking! the head should hold it square! If your going to install it untouched then use some anaerobic sealant under the lip of the liner it goes hard like locktight And will fill the void left by the out of squareness just my thoughts!

K instal the linerdri no orings clamp it down with some big flat washers measure the prostitution see what you got the whole way around the liner if it measures the same all the way around then you may be able to pull a rabbit out of a hat! Remember your allowed 2 thou diffrence between cyl .5 to 4,5

Not sure on this We have K/M does 866 -e7 - E9 I'm not sure But you could likly get cummins n14 isx etc for it, as well! If there where a bad crack there was a machine shop insert that could be installed as well Cummins had a similar fix as well! Not uncommon For these blocks !

You should get it squared up however you need the boring tool ! I Urge you inspect that bore closely sand or emery cloth wire wheel it and inspect specially in the areas where the block casting is narrow under the liner lip!

Note !! if you dropped a seat you need to check the turbo!!! An Old saying for a Dropped valve seat = minum fix will be Piston ,liner , head , turbo . This used to be a fairly common failure!

Agree with that statement Post Your fixes Guys, What ever you working on ,It helps everyone ! and it saves us repeating ourselves ! Also I have seen ECUs that fail under temperature conditions as well The rack actuator condition Mack teck has mentioned is the most common also repining the pump plug sometimes cures this issue!

This is a problem that can be repaired How ever you have to have the tooling!! Google OTC Counterbore cutting tool ! there (were) shims available ! I would also look closely For a crack on that bore aswell ! Clean it up and inspect it with a magnifying glass! Cracks tend to appear near the 3 to six position and where there is less casting in the block under the liner how ever not always! The bearing issue you speak of is less problematic than coolant push which often accompanies a cracked counter bore or Cracked liner Which by the way I also have seen!

Well if this indeed is the case its to late torquing will do little! Nail it down to which head if it is indeed a head gasket take the head off and look for the issue possibly a low liner!

Easy one to get off anyway if there is a problem!

It Would help if can nail this down to a cylinder crack the lines to each cyl and c if it changes it may be a bad injector you really needed to have checked liner protusion .5 to 5 I beleive is spec and no more than 2 thou diffrence under one head

My guess would be a manifold gasket

Check the yoke output bolt it may be loose other wise your off to the shop to have the back section repaired

Think you'll have to have it flashed at the dealer

You have E7400 maybe not e6 big waste of money in my opinion more feasible to instal mack V8

Check your coolant level

Was the oil pedestal removed there's several different gaskets for diffrent applications?was the oil cooler cleaned properly from the first engine failure?

Is there any thing in the vehicle display mileage ect if not the ecu maybe haywire

Yup what's old is new again just like the start button.

And low oil preasure high temp as intermitant as yours is it's Likley low coolant as macpro mentioned

Well then if etemps are low and your positive the throttle is going to full on and the stop full off you got good fuel preasure give the pump a tweak.

The cost of repair is whats wrong is the cost of repair is out to lunch Mack /volvo don't want you to fix things just by new stuff! An eaton is half the cost of the mack trans to overhaul parts Are half the cost of mack parts ! In some defence kw freightliner or pete are no better! Anything dealer specific bend over!

Yup the injectors likly took out the dpf

In my opinion ya need to get hooked up ad do a compression test ( cyl balance ) etc as much as you would like to avoid the shop you need th bite the bullet and do it could still be a wiring harness or a bad valve not unheard of, and

If the eup swap did not move to the other cyl you either have an injector issue OR a bad valve if its a bad valve you will have blu white smoke Pull the injector have it tested! your smoke color sounds injectorish! You can also swap the injectors hole to hole to prove it out!