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Does it smell like oil? Could be a trans cooler issue it would be black if it were engine oil fuel is another consideration!

It Won't be the first time there has been programing issues with this stuff! They run within quite tight perimeters. We did a power upgrade on a truck last year and now the engine brake is weak on the truck we are still chasing this! We did yet another power upgrade on another truck and the truck wouldn't start afterwards they installed the wrong data file at their end ! The customer WAS livid ! Customer had the truck booked for the next day.Of coarse this happened at the end of the day and you can get a hold of anybody in Mack land to get the issue resolved! NOTE TO SELF don't reprogam at the end of the day it may backfire on you,

take the 4 screws out it will become evident what you have to do the vid above is similar how ever it is not necessary TO take off any more than the 4 screws on the out side edges and the the diphram is held together with a bolt rather than a nut if I remember correctly! the trick is getting the dam tamper proof one out!

There is a Vague possibility that the turbo can cause this issue if there is little blow by At Idle ! W eve had few turbos over the years let gas by the shaft seal into the base ! Mainly on ETeck Ai and AC engines under hard pull conditions, However there is no reason why this can't happen on the v8 as well !

Pull some rods and mains and look who knows they may be right!

Good your still checkin in ! But not good! GOD This is ridiculous Maybe they will tweak the programing and do a download on your truck Hopefully ! Is anybody saying anything?

Well yet another open ended story

Simular to yours the idea is the same! it can be done with out total disassembly !

Remove the 4 screws and replace the diaphragm some have one tamper proof cap you need to work with what have you to get that out! Did you confirm it was bad with the info last post? you can also take the bulbus end off 2 screws and tunn the allen screw right in how ever this will make the thing lay down black soot when you get on the throttle your dot may can your ass for it!

Hi Bud yup to check the ( anroid) take the 3/8 hose off at the manifold end and either suck on it won't hold vacuam or blow thru it if it leaks won't hold vacuam then you need to replace the diaphram the valve is mounted on the top rear of the fuel pump!

Long as you thoroughly checked the intake plumbing your good to go

Good job Man happy for ya! Probably won't hurt to torque the studs after a few heat and cool cycles!

Good Job Bro ! Hope this cures the issue Bro Dam sight cheaper and easier than a cam job And does make some sense to the symptoms you talking about !

I If you want to see complication lift the hood on a BINDER with a Binder engine in it! You can barely see the engine with all the crap bolted to it It Is disgusting !

Make sure your primer pump is locked down!

Ya Don't know What ya Got Till its Gone!

Yup think that is a true statement ! How ever RIDER I would'nt be so quick to say you would do the cam yourself you got to have a bit of a shop and a decent size press or porta power to tackle the project with! Unfortunately Mack had started hiring VOLVO thinking type engineers by this time and started veering away from the keep it simple motto, like bolt on cam gears , O ring and tubes instead of good ole hose clamps and hose THE true Captivate era was in ramping up ! Good JOB GUYS! Make the easy jobs harder so the job takes longer (Creates employment RIGHT!)

Yup good possibility I remember you posting that! What a feasco ! if you find that this does come to a head as a lifter failure and its on the same cyl look no further for a cause I would think!

you could try that how ever its not always the exhaust roller that fails ! Hopefully mack tec and I are wrong! The chirp sound is usually heard At Idle and you can usually hear it down low near the unit pumps and pick it out almost down to the cylinder front back or center! Sometimes intermittent ! Just sayin ! your symptom is not perfect for it however At Idle would be a dead ringer! We will keep our fingers crossed At this point!

Unfortunately if the truck has an allision you will have to have the idle set AT a mack shop If you have a clutch heres a trick! you are already at base idle how ever ! Have the cruise switch off. The turn the cruise switch on, off, on, off, on off. Then you use the resume switch to set the hard idle wherever you want it. Then step on the clutch that will set the base idle where ever you wish with in reason! Just a Note if the truck is an auto have the shop turn off set IDLE with switches after they have set it to your preferred RPM this will make it so default idle dosent happen again accidentally as shown in the above direction! three times on/ off = DEFAULT idle

In my mind the more weight you add to an already out of balance situation the worse it is likly to get! even if the weight is balanced its self! you could try un bolting the clutch and turning it 180 on the wheel and re attach it ! see if it changes the situation Don't know if We asked this question DID YOU HAVE THE FLYWHWEEL resurfaced? If you have not owned the truck since new then you would not have a clue If you have then you should have record of this being done! I have seen instances where 60 thou had to come off the surface to make em flat again thats a fare jag of meat that could potentially throw things out of balance at 7 plus inches from the centre line of the crank grams count!

Guess the metallic chirp is whats throwing me off ! Under boost is likly cause as stated could be any of the above mentioned things turbo base gasket is another thought! being as you have been changing eup rollers possibly the compressor inlet hose has split! its in that general area! Like I said I hope Im wrong about the cam follower thing Not a cheap fix!

Just saying !!! True however most times you can pick the lifter sound out at idle can't explain the boost issue other than a boost leak !