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The sex slave valve was mounted on the fuel rail incoming line on the older first gen engines yours may not have it' it was done away with after a few years! In my opinion as long as your ecu fuses are good and the connections at the firewall pass thru are good no worn thru wires ect: you need to pull the pump and have it repaired! the rack controller is likely toast!

The elab valve engages with the turn of the switch the engine should run with out the rpm sensor it will not run without the timing event marker on the pump but will throw a code and the check engine light will be on for both i believe ! Most often By what your describing the rack control has gone west in these cases the pump has to come of and sent to a Bosch Fuel pump shop and parts replaced!

I would be squealing pretty loud about that! If they plan on doing R AND D on your head and valves the truck could be down for two weeks or more ! they need to supply the dealer with a new head out of the box MIN and just put it on there Ive seen this shit happen before ! I would recommend you make lots of noise!!

Yes Injector harness issues have happened the harness is all one piece!

Sounds to me your doing it right the only thing I have to contribute and you probably already know and has been mentioned can't say enough times is SELECT SPLIT switch it and break torque right away ! Don't switch and wait! it wears the hell out of the shift fork if you pre select and wait! that little grind you hear once and awhile is acceptable ! But worth experimenting with different techniques to correct IT ! IE: engine brake on /engine brake off / usr the clutch don't use the clutch on the offending gear! experiment !! The 12 speed suffered from this same issue back in the day and there were guys out there that have it down pat! I AM NOT ONE of them thou ! Teck said it Here IMO- You can tell a good driver by front fenders and his slider clutch wear. Experiment!

So Whats the ETA on this Venture Data recorder that is? Another month?

Well its another week any farther behind?

Takes 6/8 hours if ya got parts on hand it also can be a loose pinch bolt on the split fork or range fork can cause the same symtoms Bit less costly how ever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yup Agree with this statement your likley going to have to replace all of it, you may be wise to go neoprene! the grease is a good set up (if looked after) Meaning you jack the truck up take the weight off the saddles and grease it! greasing with out jacking it up , for the most part your just keeping the dirt out.

Finding people that give a rats ass about what they are doing for others these days is a struggle ! Its just a job , just a pay cheque, no pride in what little work they do put out ,It is a real piss cutter trying to find good folks that want to work and want to please ,Having said that A lot of this mentality has been past down from the top mack / volvo its self is riddled with this same thought process ! Society in general I Guess Spoiled Brats!

Unfortunately if the injector cup issue is an on going thing and has been for years on all HP ratings of these engines up to this last ear the change to common rail seems to have changed things (HOWEVER ) the jury is still out on these. so far do good. in our area for the common rail ,WE Will SEE! I am not holding my breath!.

Stat is you first step Id think

We will see how that goes!

FINALLY! 3 months that is awesome response time !

HA you think you got problems now! Good luck with your new acquisition don't get rid of your old one the vibration issue will be a non issue comparatively speaking! IMO! of coase!

Maybe he couldn't find a willing engineer!

Before you go to this trouble make sure the fuel stop is going to the fuel on position! and make sure the throttle is going to full fuel on when you step on the pedal!

After you get the thing back together check to make sure it holds pressure ! If its still s tad lazy after take that little cap off the end and give it a half turn in this will let it have a little more fuel when you first get on the throttle! it will smoke some ! Yup next step will be fuel preasure ya need 20 psi + under load 25 to 30 is best!

Unfortunatly It is likly injector cup issue! The drain back valve is cheap you could try it!

I’m almost certain this truck has a bad cam or failed lifters. I Think your correct The spring loaded push tubes indicate that the engine is equip with ceramic roller lifters If all the push tubes were bent it indicates in my mind that the engine was over sped at some point In my mind you need to Replace ALL the lifters! This Ain't gona be cheap!

Hurry up And Wait!

oooooooya! Gota love it!

No problem just trying to help! Check out the diaphragm if its broke fix it ! We can work from there I think its on par with your pay grade the hardest part is getting the screws out!

Check your other post ! I realize your new here but I think most of us read all the forums no need to post in both spots the topic says what your after we will try to help if we can!You have to be willing to listen though! https://www.bigmacktrucks.com/forum/16-modern-mack-truck-general-discussion/

Is the diaphragm leaking ? did you try what I asked you try first? If so Do this first !!!! get the diaphragm fixed then we will talk! you have to remove the whole top of the govenrer housing as he does in the first vid to increase power! YOU DON'T need to do that !! If the diaphragm is leaking you need to fix that FIRST ! The four screws facing back! the four screws facing down Not Right Now! You don't want to get to aggressive with the stop plate you can Kill the engine with too much fuel! Just saying! You were talking pay grade maybe just fix whats broke for now! JUST SAYIN!