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Yup if we can't fix it you don't need it!

The good thing here is the new style followers Did not face crack like the old days if this had happened to an E6 the cam follower and cam would likley be done for buy now .You are sitting pretty good here for a repetitively cheap repair! Good luck with it bro!

So How is it that you can need a draglink for this vehicle and go the dealer to find that this part has been discontinued! These trucks must have been owned by the Volvo Group at some point or something ! None here in Canada?? got to be thousands of these sold as service vehicles here! BS In my mind!

Youch!....get a tar bucket maw, we’re reseal’in the driveway! Yup Agree ! OOP"S IMPORTANT info --> ( piston close to TDC) Make sure you don't knock the keepers out beating on those valves!

Ahh Sorry ! Just can't resist bashing these idiots !

Trent you guys got the best of both worlds ! A turned up 285 Maxidyne huge pulling range ect how ever a guy wants to watch how much you crank on it it can break the block! Unlike the e7 there are no Brutus screws holding things together When the e6 was converted to 350 they added in some jumper plates between the rod caps to try and stabilize the situation however a stop gap measure in my mind before the E 7 appeared! Just sayin!

If this were the case they could have put some effort into The Mack brand! And it would have and should have been the go to Vocational truck ! They could have dumped the `Volvo trash branded units and been miles ahead. Nothing smart about these guys! They have trashed out the MR as well ! At least we there will be the A Car/ and Pete for the industries to fall back on !

I think you won't have enough room for it ! The rad will be in the way! Won't be able to close the hood on it! More mods than you think I'm thinkin! Just sayin!

Agree

Possibly a broken injector tip ore a bad valve bent push rod I would pull the back valve cover first what colour is the smoke?

I believe there still exists as a An Autocar branded Garbage packer!

In my opinion think you should be checking the block grounds

We have an RD running in my area here that developed a crack in that area but was detected on a semi annual vehicle inspection and repaired before that disaster struck still going strong 8 years later not sure this truck will have the same second chance! 😥

geo thermal is the way to go how ever real pricey !A standard air to air unit will work well long as your outside temp is just above freezing or better for most of the year you will benefit by having it also ac in the summer is nice if your current furnace set up As long duct work is set up correctly the A coil add on is usually not a hard thing to ad in! Relatively cheap !How ever you need to have a properly sized electrical pane! A 100 amp panel is pushing it for size!! a heat pump requires Min 2- 220 slots usually! just some stuff to think on!

OH YA! don't leave it at that!

Pre and real early eteck there was An exhast brake Option called Stealth brake!!!! To install this unit( and to run in tandem with jake ) we were required to remove valve covers and replace or add valve seals and replace valve springs to install these! WHY I am unsure ??? As I stated before ! So they had us replace the valve springs and seals for what ever reason !!! ? Now having said that you could just disable the jake you don't got to use it! This combo worked well with exception of the turbo issue on long grades! if you are running on relatively flat ground and in town type work I see this as a viable option! that said proceed with caution! you have the right approach may worth the while? time will tell Guess! if it don't work you don't have to use it!

Did you pressure test with the pan off after the second time to check your work? Yes the moisture can be trapped in the valley and fuel pump and can take a while to cook off!

I have been studying their site. I really like the idea of the telma, wish I could see one in operation. I am just weighing the cost of each. I think in the end I would be happier with the telma. I will bring some experience to the table here! Take it for what it is worth! Pre and real early eteck there was An exhast brake Option called Stealth brake!!!! To install this unit we were required to remove valve covers and replace or add valve seals and replace valve springs to install these! Having said that the unit helped on engine braking a fair bit ! We however started having issues with turbos on these the exhaust gasses started over coming the shaft seals on the turbo on long downhill grades pushing the gasses into the base causing horrible blowby issues ! the fix was a special turbo with extra sealing rings on the shaft seal! if you plan on going this route. Don't say you weren't warned!!! Just saying! Telma I have nothing bad to say about this unit , other than the extra weight added they function great!

Guys! just a foot note if Tech did not mention it earlier in the thread !! pay attention to the center section orientation as you remove it ! It can be bolted on upside down and you likely wont notice till you go to put the turbo on the drain tube will not fit!! You will be really pissed of at your self for not noticing! 🙄

If the read light came on with the yellow eml its usually one of two to three sensors ! low oil pressure / hi temp / or sometimes low water !low water level is usually turned of as it can be a nuisance!

another place to look ! If your wheels are steel one of your wheels may be cracked! If its the inter wheel diff it acts some what like as a posi-trac However ever a little more noticeable on dri ground !You can lock the inter axle out (MOST ) of the time, there is a switch on the dash to lock the inter axle out how ever not always some trucks were built with no lock out feature look for it on the dash!

You may have the Mack diff with the mack power divider inter -axle inter diff lock they tend to pop and bang from time to time!

mechanical pump on new motor ?? Time is of the essence! My opinion!

Too little to late ! If these people had Half A brain And intended being in the heavy haul jass they would have derived a replacement for the titan before pulling it out of production ! These Guys Are poorly organized OR they JUST simply don't give a shit! In my mind The Later is in play here! AND OR BOTH!

Remove the all bottom studs and Clean the threads put pipe sealant on them and re install em they are open to the the push tube area on the back side!