theakerstwo

That is the basics so start to check for low fuel pressure and sucking air. Both can cause white smoke.

What was the problem in the beginning reason pump was off, I may have missed something.

Are you using the split timing pointer and using the pump side instead valve set?And I cant tell you how important it is to get the tap or pointer inside of the governor housing hole in the center. Best with a A/B timing light.Look at the engine timing pointer on the front and make sure its not bent.

I will talk to you like you don't know how so lets go. First to make sure your on # 1 cylinder pull rear Valve cover. Rotate the engine CW from the front until the exhaust valve on # 6 just closes and then the intake just starts to open. That is valve over lap and # 1 cyl is at top dead center.Back the engine up a few inches and you will see scribed degree marks in out side of the damper wheel at the engine timing pointer. You should back up past the marker a little and then put a fine mark on the 20 degree mark on the wheel.Now turn slow CW until the 20 aligns with the engine pointer stamped pump and not valve set.If you go past that always turn CCW enough to were your past then come back down to 20 going CW.Your thru turning the engine.Now take the plug out of the governor housing that is below the fuel shut off lever and there will be a tab or spad sticking out enough to see thru the hole in the housing. If the pump is in time it will be in the center of the hole. If not then pull the front cover off were you see 4 bolts in a slotted gear.Best to remove them if its out of time very much.You need a to turn the pump CW until you see the tab in the hole of the governor housing until you have it in the center and. You need a A B timing light to do it right but if your just wanting to get it running to get some were to get it done right then align the tab in the middle of the gobernor housing and install the 4 bolts in the front gear. You may have to remover the gear in front to get it were the bolts will go in. good luck.

A photo of the pump would help.

I reread your post and see that you was not intending on replacing the barrels and plungers like I was thinking so yes you have to roll engine over and spot it on the cyl ready to fire and time it when you go back. The way you was asking yes it would run but would not be timed like it needs. If some one don't tell you how then post a pic of pump or tell us the model of pump and some of us can walk you thru it.

What I do to test a injection pump but you may not have it but take a old fuel line and injector from a two valve engine and connect to 2 and watch at idle what the injector does then connct to another cyl and compare what the injector sprays.It the spray is less on 2 then pull it.But sounds like your on the proper track. It would be bad to build the pump and then find you have a bad cam in the engine or tight valve.

No you cant. You have to have a yest bench when replacing the plungers on that pump. But what tells you the pressure is weak. I mean how did you check the pressure cause lot of us would like to know that.

I have a ranger that came from the north reason I ask but have not yet found any rust.

The 237 is good for 55 mph grossing 72000 but it is slow on hills and also don't let some one set the fuel up very much.

When I worked for the old freightliner dealer here there was a few of them here maybe in late 60s or early 70s.I remember seeing a service letter from the factory stating if you pull a oil pan check to see if its cast iron and if so don't get under it when you pull the last bolt like we did cummins.It stated it weight around 400 lb and it would mash your stuff good. I have had a few of the alummmin pans off but never saw the cast iron.I under stood that engine was from a industrial world before trucks.

I would say that is were they got the term name of crash box. It want do that many times.

Double weight limiting speed governor and its date of 3 70 400 to 500 isle speed with weight control and the engine service part #

The air clutch system is so simple but very hard to tell a man were to look.

We used 50W in them cause they have needle brgs.Aershell white lable is another 50W that we used in them as well as in road ranger trans.

My self too.

As done been stated it takes a long time to get the oil out of the system.It will drain out of all of the lines and valves in the truck and down to the air tanks when not being used.

Most of us make plates and bolt over the two oil ports and then pressure to 80 psi and put it in a bucket of water.The later oil cooler like a 237 will bolt inplace with the in plates and housing from the 237.

Just like he said be very carefull and cage the spring before you pull it off or apart.You can have a bad day if that goes off in your face.most of us don't need any more scar on our face.

What you say?

Some 673 did not have oil cooler and did have a cooler.

pull the oil pan and pressure the coolant for a few days and ever once in a while turn the engine over. When you see it dripping look with a light and see were it is coming from and report back and then some one can ntell you more about it. It can be anything from a oil cooler or head gasket or cracked head as well as a crack in the block. I have also seen a block leak from in behind the liner

Seems like getting sick is not as much fun as it was when we was kids.But it gets you out of working. Wishing you a get well hurry up.