theakerstwo

When you get thru with the pump the rack has to be free of it will run away and kill you and all that looking at it. To check it remove the six bolts in the top of the gover cover and remove the cover.Get hold of the rack and move it in and out. On the other end of the pump there is a screw you can remeove and use a small screw driver and push on the end of the rack thru the screw hole. move back and forth with fuel in the pump yntill it moves free or your can die.

I have seen them in our shop many times. Most of the repairs was caused by the TA truck stop shops.Many wheel seal replacements went bad from them and then they are told to go to freightliner for warranty.

Axle Surgeons Inc Google this and you can find that they are moble all over usa. They have the parts and do the work at your local. One of the tecs told me had change a few of the mack spindles.

It is a limit slip. And if the drive tires is not kelp the same size all around then it is to be exspected to find the peanuts and both cams worn out to were you can pick up one wheel and not feel the drag.This is a spring loaded efect antislip.

Mack cant tell you what liner that is in it now.You have to look at the drawing that was posted and find which liner you have in it now and not what was in it when new. Also some one may have install wrong gasket before so find what liner you have. Is it the flat top or the one that has the step in the top like the middle drawing?If the top is flat like shown in the top drawing then dont use a gasket that uses a fire ring and dont listen to a parts man trying to tell you what you need. The liner is probly older than the parts man anyway. glenn

Did i miss something.I did that one time my self.

Fat man what a joke. I looked for a fat man for a hr one time and then some one walked up laugfing at my silly ass.

Some of the antifrezze cant be mixed but gets mixed any way. Arrow trucking here had some DD that came in with it mixed and had head gaskets leaking combustion to the coolant and it eat metal like i cant tell you about. It turned to a acid like solution and destroyed some blocks.So i say stay with green and you cant go wrong.

Rob its the long life but green is good for all engines if it is changed out often enough. The problem with the green is my understanding is after two years the what ever in it falls out. then there is no metal protection were long lefe should be good for 5 years..In the freightliner shools i found that there is so many different antfrezzes that we had a book and chart to id it with. My look at is go green and change out ever two years and keep close check on it to keep the ph in balance.Hope thats right and if not it sounds good.

I can tell you what i remenber about them but have not been in one in the last thrity years. The 673c came from the factory with non maxidyne head gaskets and liners. The top of the liner was flat.When most guys overhauled they went back with the maxidyne liner and had the groves cut in the head surface.The maxidyne liner will have a step or bead in the top and will not be flat like the standard liner. It is good for more pressure and the head gasket will have a fire ring in the pakage that is set on top of the liner and is a flat metal ring.But i have never seen a 711 or 707 engine with the fire rings or maxidyne head gaskets.I do not remenber the liner protruion and have not got a old manual but would not go back untill i checked the liner protrion. That is done by measuring from the top of the liner (flat part) and not the very top that sticks up and to the top of the block.There is some mack dealer guys on here that can look this up for you.

Here in okla at one time you could have some one some way do a title search. It would cost some money i think but if that is what you want to know go for it. The tag offices here would be a way of finding out who does that kind of service.

That was used on B models as well as some R models. Also the R model used a single top loader.

Rowdy i broke something the day before yesterday at about dark thirty. I have a E6 engine and about ever six months if i dont change the fan belts the inside belt will break. Its done it a few times but this time the belt went under the water pump pulley and burnt the other belt off go thing was i had just dumped a load of hot rocks. But i could not get the belt from under the pulley with out pulling the pulley off.I do not know why it throws one belt. New dampener on it one year ago and no better. glenn

I bet he dont leave that out on the street after dark. Wander what his addrees is. I ant but 100 miles from him.I wander how long before he would miss that. Just saying

So we had a rain last year to.

Thats funny

The you get the pressure down you will be ok. That has been replaced with a much later engine than from factory.

Show us some close up photos of the engine and we can tell you what you got. glenn

The water manifold is all that is different.

If itb has 20 heads bolts then it was a full flow oil system and i would be afraid to run it.It needs a different mounting block that is bolted with 4 1/2 bolts to the side of the filter.I would say to remove the mounting block and check to see if the two oil holes on either side of the center oil hole can get oil from the center hole.The center hole out of the block come direct from the oil pump and up thru the mounting block and should go to a full flow filter and return back to the oil galley by the two holes to the side of the center hole. Other wise you can starve the main brgs.

I think hes about ready to go jump off that airplane so maybe well still have hope.

A freind of mine at work has a four valve 300 set hot in a 66 r model.It has a air/air cooler on the front and i will look at it some more.I know the air/air is against the grille.

A few days ago out at the crusher shack were we hand when waiting on loads a driver called the battery man for new batterys. He connected 12 volt batterys in series on a N14. This man has sold batterys for years. he found the problem but the engine would no start. The driver knew me before i retired and come inside and got me to help. First thing we checked was the ecm fuse was blowed and now it will start. But the relays and i dont understand this but they were all froze to were they would not connect. But the battery man was shy of asking me what happened and the driver was not sharp enough to catch on hat had happen. But did say he cut him some slack on the price of batterys. I said to my self ever one need to be glad it didnt get a ecm.stuff happens i guess.

Same cover as eaton rockwell or spicer.

Rob only way the pto would bind the shift clutch is if the pto was under load. Two things come to mind. All make engine are not made freindly. I mean some will if you tach it against the governor will defuel some more than it should causing a efect of you backing out too quick and it hangs the shift with back pressure. I have one pump that is that way. I will change it out soon cause it is jacking off again.Some pumps are like driving a cummins and you can back out of it smoothly and get away from the back pressure on the shift.Another thing is the poppet springs can be too heavy.Play with them and grind a half of a coil off. Or lift the shifter and remove the spring on the rail that is a problem and go drive it with out the spring. Dont drop your balls inside.