Freightrain

I always used the term "Quaker Sludge" to describe that oil. Haven't used it in many decades. From what I heard it had too much parafin wax in it, thus it got gummy and clogged everything up.

It will take some light heat to get those plugs out after all the years. Pretty sure there is an o-ring behind it as a seal. Or was it just a gasket? I had to remove my heater due to changing to spin on filter head and there wasn't room for the block heater. Mine was in the middle on the driver's side of block. Once I cut up the original fitting for the heater I was able to clean up the threads and install a factory style plug.

Tell him I said Hi! Met him on the old ATHS forum a long, long time back.

Haven't seen Jim in a long time. I think the last time was South Bend ATHS national convention? Over on their FB page, Rick Knox posted pics and videos of his straight pipe he put on his crackerbox!

I don't buy premix, but yes std green antifreeze is fine.

They dont make big boost, so likely wont make a lot of noise like later model engines.

The only thing that will really help the ride quality is either some weight on the back or some more wheelbase. There isn't enough weight to make the air bags move. Back when my truck was "stock", it was rough even when I cut the rear springs down to 3 leaves when bobtailing. When I stretched it from 150" to 206" was the biggest improvement. Got rid of the bucky short wheelbase ride. It has air ride, but still bounces when bobtailing due to lack of weight back there. I've read about the ping tanks before, but not sure how much improvement that will make?

I want that '67 Camper special in the background! The speeders are really cool too! Love to get involved with those, but not much running in Ohio. You have to go to PA, MI or farther.

I removed mine one time and didnt seem too horrible but I put it back on just because I have neighbors and sometimes I leave the truck out and leave early in the morning.

Yup, sounds like typical air start tank. I need to look and see if i kept one out back.

I wonder if there is check valves between sides to keep them up. If not, if you lean too hard on one side it could push the air into the opposite side bags causing a severe list. How does the line split when it reaches each rearend?

Not really sure I would mess with it. Just run decent oil, change the filter a few times after getting some miles on it. I'm not sure you want to break all that crap loose and have it floating around in one big mess. With good detergent oil, over time, may clean some of it up. If you can "pick" some of the bigger pieces out, do so, but I wouldn't got crazy. If it runs okay and has decent oil pressure........just run it.

That guy has some cool stuff for sale. http://www.donwilbur.com/equipment-for-sale.html

That KW looks worth the money.

Neat piece of history. Interesting story behind it. Crazy Mack could have quite the business with offering that still today if things would have gone better back then.

I do that with my three boxes. Put triplex in gear and leave my aux in neutral to move things around while building air.

I rebuilt the shifters in my truck. Bit of TIG welding to get the ball back to size and then very careful grinding until they fit in the rails and shifted smoothly. Great work so far!

Mine is single OD. If i had the chance I would take some more gear out of the back. When I did the air ride I put 4.10. I think I would have left the 3.70 in it had I known I was doing a repower. The clip had 3.70 but I knew I didnt have the power to pull it so the yard let me swap it out for no charge. Ya, my triplex is noisy. Some day I would like to replace it with something else.

Looks to be just a 5 spd truck. Why would someone go through all this auction hub bub for selling it? With all the fees, it's a loosing proposition.

I like the KW myself.

I just bought new aluminum tanks! Only hard work was digging into the wallet to pay for them. Lol. At $700 each I really didnt think it was bad to never have to deal with 60 yr old tanks again.

Very cool commercial! It's scary when you give production crews your vehicle for their "use". Bad things can happen. Glad it worked out so well for you son's friend. I remember a story from way back about Bob Chandler and Bigfoot when it was used in the movie "Take this job and shove it". Seems the crew was just trashing it. Bob stepped in and took over. In the final scene, where the truck runs through the guard shack...it was Bob driving. Seems he had to shave his beard off to fit the character.

I'd have to look to see if I kept the part number from the gasket kit for my 237 when I pulled the heads off. It was a complete kit and everything from the heads down should be the same. I got it off Ebay, it was a Felpro kit. I had my air compressor rebuilt about 17 yrs ago at a place in Southern Ohio(of rt 36). Not sure they are still around. It was $500, but I had it back in 3 days.

Found some reading for anyone that wants to know how to do it: http://starautoelectric.com/instruction-for-polarizing-generator/ In all the years I have been in business, I have heard many versions on how to polarize a generator and voltage regulator. Some versions are correct, others are totally wrong. Polarization is a procedure which matches the polarity for the generator and the voltage regulator. The majority of the vehicles are manufactured negative ground although some of the older vehicles were manufactured positive ground. The generator has to be set up for either polarity. The generator will charge either way, however the voltage regulator has only one polarity. Whenever the battery is disconnected from the vehicle for any reason the polarization procedure should be performed. The recommendation on how to polarize a charging system is the following: After the installation of a battery, generator or voltage regulator follow these procedures. The terminals on the voltage regulator are labeled with letters and this is where you will do the polarizing procedure. Both of the components will have battery power so do not start the vehicle or turn on the ignition switch before polarizing them. You will need a small piece of wire fourteen or sixteen gauge with alligator clips on the ends. Find the “B” terminal on the regulator and attach one of the alligator clips, find the “D” terminal and touch the terminal with the other alligator clip. You can touch the terminals a few times and it will produce a soft light spark. Under no circumstances touch the “F” terminal or any other part of the regulator or you could damage the regulator. For the Lucas voltage regulators that have the teminals labeled A1, A, F, D, E, the polarization procedure is the same however the terminals that will be used are the “D” terminal and either the “A” or “A1” depending on which teminal is used on the vehicle. Either terminal can be used if wires are going to both terminals. Start the vehicle and you should see the red generator light go off on the instrument panel, you may have to rev the engine up a few RPM, generators have a tendency not to charge at idle speed. If you have a gauge on the instrument panel the gauge will respond accordingly. Look for more technical information in the future on these page.

Ya, my air starter got stiff a year ago, so I bought the automatic oiler and installed it. Tap off the fuel line. It uses fuel pressure to fill a small cavity, then the spring closes that valve. Then once you hit the air button, it pushes that volume of fuel into the starter to lubricate the vanes. That is the feed side, so I can't see any reason for a pressure relief. I think the spring is just there to hold it open. I would bet if you rotate it over about 90* CW, the spring will then hold it closed. Just guessing.