doubleclutchinweasel

Thinking about the fuel gage this morning. Depending on how the gage is wired relative to the sending unit, it might work backward too. If the gage is wired parallel to the variable resistor (sender), it might read okay. But, if the gage is in series with the sender, it basically works like a amp meter, and would read backward. Sorry, I do not know enough about that system to know for sure. You'll figure it out! I have no doubt.

Somebody posted on here that there were some starters that were not polarity-sensitive. I don't know anything about that. But, there's a lot I don't know! DC motors are polarity-sensitive in general. To reverse the system, you need to reverse the cables going to the starter. The solenoid should be okay. Lights work on resistance, so they don't care which way the juice flows. I think fuel level sensors would be the same. Amp meter needs to be reversed, because it is in series in the circuit. Volt meter is usually an issue, because many of them were single wire. I had to swap mine out for a 2-wire, insulated version. It is in parallel to the basic system. A 1-wire alternator is easy to add. I really don't think there is all that much difference in the erosion of the joints in a negative ground system, That was supposed to be the advantage of the positive ground system. But... I'm a firm believer in negative ground systems, because it's easier to add accessories (radios, etc.) to them.

That's a lot like what the NC guys said. But, for instance, if you enter a show and win ANYTHING OF VALUE, that constitutes "income" or "compensation" (in NC, anyway). Keep in mind that an appropriate class of license (A, B, C) is still required, regardless of commercial/non-commercial status. Most data plates on old Macks were not stamped with the GVWRs. And, the sticker in the door jamb is usually gone by now. The DMV guys said there was nothing to prevent you from stamping the plate with any GVWR you wanted. Nobody would know who stamped it. Shady area there. But, a class B license would allow you to drive any single vehicle 26,001 or higher GVWR. But, you don't necessarily need a commercial license. If you have a 17K rear axle and a 9K front, you have a class C vehicle. Read your state's regulations carefully, and do what they say! You'll be fine.

I know you'll come up with something slick! By the way, I thought about how stupid my comments on the amp meter were while I was away from the computer. I believe ALL amp meters will be 2-wire, because the current goes through them on its way to or from the battery! I had volt meter on the brain for some reason. Sorry! Should be able to reverse the amp meter by swapping the wires.

I think here all trucks go through the scales, except pickups, campers, and vans. An empty tractor would have to go through. Some scales have a bypass lane specifically for empty trucks.

I can't wait to see what your devious mind comes up with on that panel!

DOT guy here told me "not for hire" did not automatically exempt truck from any regulations. In many cases, that truck might be part of a commercial endeavor (like a farm, for instance) which could still require all the appropriate permits, numbers, and such. It just was not available for hire. My R had "Antique" plates on it, with an appropriate weight on them. I saw others also add "recreational use only" on the door. This can get complicated, and every state can be different. One of the biggest questions they asked me when I was discussing this with the state guys was, "Is the vehicle engaged in the furtherance of a commercial endeavor?" If it is, it is a commercial vehicle. If not, it is not. If, for instance, you haul a race car behind it, and you race the car for prize money, that is a commercial endeavor. But, if you just drive the truck around, it is not. Mine, again, was tagged as an antique vehicle. It did not require a fuel tax number because it was not used commercially. And, as an antique, it was exempt from annual inspections. Again, your results may vary by state.

Amp gage will show backward if it's single post, and grounded through the casing. But, it it has 2 insulated posts, you can reverse the wiring.

That just about sums it up!

Jo-Jo, where are you? Macktech? LOL!

Most Mack tandems will use camelback springs. Not that easy to just remove one axle. The single-screw springs are different. Like LTK said, you might be able to use the rear axle, relocated forward. But, the spring perches on the axle housing will probably have to be changed. Again, with enough time, money, and work, you can do just about anything. I have seen single-axle Macks with both the top-loaded and front-loaded differentials used. So, there are some options out there. But, like Mech said, it's a LOT easier to find a single axle to start from.

Worked kinda like those "one-way" radios we used to have in the vehicle with us. Give 'em a smokey report, and they never said "thanks" or returned the favor.

It's for a different setup (R model), but maybe this will give you something to think about at least. The "Stop Light Switch" is in the "trailer service" line, downstream of the double check valve. This way, the brake lights come on if either the trolley valve or the treadle valve are operated. The schematic shows this a long way from the treadle, but, in reality, it was right there at it.

"Service" line, not "emergency" line. Service line should get pressure when you hit the pedal.

Should be able to move that switch to any fitting anywhere from the treadle valve to one of the tees in the rear lines and get it to work, now that he's got power. I think mine (R model) was at the treadle valve itself. But, that can be a pain to work on. I think they put it there, near the double check valve, so that either the treadle valve or the trolley valve would actuate it. I also had another switch, I believe, at the parking brake valve which turned on the brake lights when the parking brakes were set. It can be located, literally, anywhere in a line that gets pressurized when the pedal is depressed. Depends on whether or not it's going to have a trailer on it as to how the trailer brake plumbing plays into the picture.

Yeah. We're singin' the same tune!

Sorry, 'Train! You typed yours faster than I did mine! LOL!

I'm late jumping in here, and I may be WAY off base. But, the place the switch is screwed into says "tractor emergency". Isn't that SUPPOSED to have pressure on it? Believe that's connected to the "truck tractor protection valve". Maybe that's not the right location for the switch? Try tee-ing into one of the actual lines going to the rear service brake chambers? Again, I may not be seeing the right stuff, and I am no B model expert. So, don't yell at me too loud!

If you check out some of LTK's other projects, you'll see that everything he does looks like that. Quite the artist.

It’s funny. All this wheel cylinder stuff seems all too fresh in my mind. Seems like only yesterday. But it was over 40 years ago.

Saw that, as well as a wikipedia article on RE Fulton, Jr., which mentions it also. But, I have yet to find anything "official" that says there was a Fulton at the helm of Mack. I keep finding the same list that is shown above.

Think we've hijacked the poor guy's thread! But, anyhow... I never did a Quad like that. But, I did change the clutch on a C60 Chevy on the side of the road by myself one night with no jack and very few tools.. Walked about a mile to an auto parts store to get the parts. About 4:30-500 PM. Wrapped chains around the box. Looped the chains over a couple of pieces of pipe laid on top of the frame. Put 2 ratchet binders on to tighten it up and adjust the height as it went out and in. Used a pipe wrench to turn the pipes, rolling them along the frame. Had a come-along tied to the rear to hold it back. Lots of stuff in the way of those rolling pipes. Seems like I had to tie it up once or twice to move the pipes around some obstacle. Got just enough room to get it apart without hanging up on the input shaft. Could NOT find anything the right size to pilot the disc...eyeballed it...through a mirror...with a flashlight. Not ideal! Going back in, of course, it wouldn't spline up. Used the come-along to pull it forward, and pushed in the clutch, and bumped the starter. In it went. Got it buttoned up about 3:00-4:00 AM. Went on home. I would not attempt that now for love nor money. But, I was young...and stupid. Didn't have anywhere else to be right then anyway! No cell phones. Nobody to call for help if we had them. Can't remember all the details now. It's been over 40 years. But, I came close to laying down under the truck and giving up more than a few times.

Been there, done that, too! Always seemed to be the one swinging the hammer! Yeah, those "new", bolt-together, oil-filled tracks are way better. I remember on the old style, we had a running joke that you would walk the tractor a half-mile out of the way to run through a mud hole...just to stop them from squeaking for a few seconds. Saw a lot of stupid stuff back then. Saw a few people hurt, too. But, for the most part, everybody walked away with all their body parts intact. I tell the safety people here all the time, "I never worked more safely than when I knew what I was working on could get me killed."

Is that anything like how we used to loosen the pad bolts on dozer tracks? Put the breaker bar, socket, and cheater pipe on the bolt. Pull or back up to a tree. Have one idiot stand on the head of the breaker bar, and have the other idiot ease the cheater pipe against the tree by moving the tractor. I usually was the idiot standing on the wrench, by the way! Hell of a racket when the bolt came loose. Worse when the tools exploded.

Thanks for the update. Glad you got it sorted out.