doubleclutchinweasel

I seem to (vaguely) remember riding in a truck (maybe a B...maybe not even a Mack) with my Dad when I was 4-5 years old that had independent wipers. Even then, it irritated me that they didn't move together! Seemed like there were 2 separate switches on the dash...one for each wiper. But, the picture above looks like there were controls mounted directly on the motors, not on the dash. Could just be a memory lapse though, 'cause it's been nearly 60 years! Really wish we'd had these new-fangled phones back then. I saw so much cool stuff, and only had my memory to record it all with...and now that's fading.

I'm glad somebody got the joke!

I've used this stuff a lot on TIG electrodes. It usually works okay. Surprising how the "warm" electrode comes OUT of the powder hotter than it went in! Must be some cool magic in there. A properly ground electrode seems to work a little better, but this stuff is super handy on the job. My son is the better TIG welder. He worked at a medical solution plant for several years, and he did a LOT of TIG welding on stainless. Has the patience and the touch for it. He can put the right tip on the electrode, stick it out the right amount, and makes it look super easy. I have done a lot of TIG, but nothing like he has. He's MUCH better at it than I am. My go-to machine at the house is just a Hobart "transformer" buzz-box. Does something like 220 amps AC and 160 DC. I typically use it on DC most of the time. It's a 230VAC machine. I liked it because it had the straight/reverse switch instead of having to swap leads to swap polarity. Had it for something like 22 years now. Really want one of the 115/230VAC Miller MIG setups. Like maybe the 211 in the original post. Not that I really NEED one, would just like to have one! Also, have used one of the 115/230VAC Miller "suitcase" stick welders here at work from time to time. Pretty amazing little "rectifier" box. MUCH lighter than my transformer machine (which is permanently mounted to a hand truck!). I'm just kinda funny; if what I have works, I don't really want to spend money on something else! Toys, toys, toys! Hey, did we get off-topic...again? LOL!

Seems like a saw a Mack fire truck at Dennis Mehan's place one time with the Hall-Scott engine. DEFINITELY had some extra nose on it! Very noticeable!

I've been wrapped up in a many of those D-handle drills! Wrist. Breakers.

I have also used Vaseline to coat things I didn't want painted. Used it a lot on gauges and such.

My '70 had 2 hoses, side-by-side. No selector for the air. I think the selection on that one was automatic, based on the temperature, by a bi-metal coil....IF I remember correctly.

I remember a tuck I drove one trip. It had a single disc with no clutch brake (or it didn't work!). On level ground, it would go in after about 5-6 seconds. If the truck was pointed uphill or downhill, the clutch disc would rub the flywheel or the pressure plate just enough to keep the blasted thing spinning while the clutch was in! It was a PITA to get it into gear on a hill. Figured out pretty quickly to make sure it was in gear BEFORE stopping on the hills. Like I said. Only had to deal with it for one trip.

Like others have said, the "613" indicated an ENDT-673 engine. The "S" indicates "six wheel" (tandem) chassis. Those "double splined" axles are the ticket. We had those on all our heavy spec stuff. Usually carried spares in the truck (as well as a set of U-joints). You definitely have a couple of good trucks to play with there.

Like others have said, the "613" indicated an ENDT-673 engine. The "S" indicates "six wheel" (tandem) chassis. Those "double splined" axles are the ticket. We had those on all our heavy spec stuff. Usually carried spares in the truck (as well as a set of U-joints). You definitely have a couple of good trucks to play with there.

Refresh my memory. Does the "N" signify "no brakes" on the front axle???

Shame I don't have anything to put it on!

I'm not sure if that uses the same parts as a regular FA532 or not. Maybe some of the more enlightened here can shed some light on it. I can't find an FA(W)532 in any of my other literature. So, that one's a mystery to me. Maybe you can measure the thread sizes (and pitches) and compare to the dimensional sketches in those catalogs to find something that will work. As long as the tapers are the same, the threads are the same, and the lengths are reasonably close, they will work. I hate to pull one apart to get these numbers, 'cause that leaves it undriveable! But, sometimes it takes that to get the dimensions. I'll keep digging through some of my old stuff and see what I can find.

I'm glad you are improving.

Had air assist steering on the '67 R I drove. Really nice to drive. Did use a lot of air when weaseling around in the yard. Cylinder would sometimes back off from the cap, and I had to spin it back on. Was really nice on the road, though. That single-axle could still be a Mack double-reduction setup. Can't really tell from the pictures. A single-axle is a bit easier to maintain on a toy truck, in my opinion. But, whatever you do, I think you have a couple of nice toys to work with.

In particular, check out kscarbel's comments part-way down the page...

Can't help you with that! Somebody will. A couple of interesting reads about Crown and Orrville. http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/c/crown_steel/crown_steel.htm http://www.coachbuilt.com/bui/o/orrville/orrville.htm

Is that the gray interior, galvanized cab? Those can be pretty sought-after.

Yeah, Joe, I think that list only ran through 1990. Sorry I didn't Pay more attention to the date on it! Thanks for the correction.

I've seen guys on here talk about houses that DO rebuild these pumps. So, I would assume you are correct, and one would just need the know-how to do it. I'm sure somebody here will have some detailed advice. How's the wing?

Looks like the last H was in 1959. Last G looks like 1962. Last F appears to be 1981. MH ran till 1990. All those dates came off the ubiquitous Mack production sheet (attached), unless I missed a date! I think the CruiseLiner ran till 1984 (according to Mack's website). Mack Production.pdf

That's what mine had, and they worked great...as long as you kept the mud dauber nests out of them! That design worked for decades.

And we thank you for that post!

I think you are both right. Different vintage engines had different starting instructions. I have seen both the half-pedal and the full-pedal instructions.

Diesels like a little heat. Cold diesels tend to build up crud. I think mine was a 170° thermostat, but the shutters controlled the heat from there to...I want to say...190°? I can't remember exactly. There are people on here that will remember those numbers in detail. I HAVE seen trucks with the shutters deactivated run a 180 or even 185° thermostat with no reported issues. Again, there are real pros on here that can guide you way better than I can!