doubleclutchinweasel

Way back when, Mack sold a conversion kit. Had one on the truck I drove in ‘80. Still had the oil bath bottom on the can. But, when you dropped it, there was a dry filter up in the main body. I couldn’t find anything like that for my later truck. I’ve seen a lot with the Donaldson can swapped onto them.

Yep. It loaded. That's what I thought...or was afraid of! LMAO!

I couldn't get it to load right now. Is that Raymond J. Johnson, Junior?

By the way, we also called the forward/reverse lever in a direct-drive Caterpillar tractor the "Johnson Bar". I think the steam locomotive engineers used that term for other things, too. EDIT: A quick search shows that steam locomotives' "reversing bar" was sometimes called the Johnson Bar. I guess that's where the Cat guys got it.

"Missed it by thaat much."

Did you ever get this sorted out?

Just saw this post. Wow! That is one beautiful truck!

You definitely have some serious stones, Swishy.

That's what I was thinking. All the ones I grew up around had the larger air cleaner, and the RH door was definitely harder to get into. Same deal on the R-models. Less swing on that door.

With the "clutchless" Liberty (twin countershaft, by the way) and Jerico boxes, it is now WAY easier to make a good pass. The sliders in those are a great idea, and I wish I had thought up the design! What I like about all those old-school guys is that they were still using a "conventional" box. Takes a lot of skill to hit those just right.

There is a LOT of renewed interest in straight-shift drag cars. It is getting popular again. I guess some of the guys wanted to put the driver back into the equation!

That’s awesome!

Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins at about 1:05 and Ronnie Sox right after that. Gotta' love Grumpy's cigar!

Ronnie Sox was one of the best I ever saw shifting a 4-speed. The pass starts at about the 50 second mark.

ouch!

Alaska Passage (1959) had B models in it.

Another one.

Mack built trailer.

I order it from Opti-Lube on Amazon

I'm a big fan of Opti-Lube. Adds lots of lubricity to the fuel, as well as the cleaning action.

Ya' know... Sucks to have to dig into it. But, once he's finished, the engine will be worthy of the rest of the truck.

I remember being on jobs and getting bulldozers that had just come back from "rebuild", and finding freshly-painted yellow sticks still poking out of the radiators. Found radiators clogged with paint. Worn out rollers and sprocket segments...all with a fresh coat of yellow paint on them! Engines low on oil, and old oil at that. I think they called that a "Rebuild-in-a-Can"...paint can, that is!

I think you are all over this. I have never seen bigger cans on the front axle. Seen same size a lot on dump trucks. Usually smaller fronts on tractors. Glad you got it sorted out.

THAT'S what the dash is supposed to look like! Clean. Simple. Easy to read. Easy to work on. NO PLASTIC! And I always loved the shape of the needles on the speedometer and tachometer. The heel of the needle always looked like a counterbalance to me. When they changed to the later needles, I always felt like we got cheated.

That's the ticket right there. Put the switch into the "trailer-service" line coming out of the double check valve, headed toward the tractor protection valve. This line should have pressure on it any time the foot valve or trolley valve is opened, regardless of the TP valve position. On my R, the double check valve was right at the foot valve. Not sure where it is on a B. If you have air pressure in the trailer "trailer-service" line (with TP valve to "normal" and no foot valve or trolley valve open), there is a problem somewhere else. With the TP valve to "normal", there should be air in the "trailer-emergency" line only (it charges the air system on the trailer). Only when you open the foot valve or trolley valve should you get air to the "trailer-service" line. Possibly leaking through trolley valve? Or a bad TP valve? Setting the TP valve to "emergency" kills all the air going to the trailer. On my R, there was a second switch that caused the brake lights to come on when the parking brakes were applied. It was normally closed, so it opened and shut off the lights when you applied air to overcome the spring brakes. When you dumped the air to allow the spring brakes to engage, the switch closed and turned on the lights. So, the brake lights were on any time the key was on and the parking brakes were set. Incidentally, if you have no intention of ever hooking up a trailer, you could conceivable put the switch into a line that feeds the brakes on the tractor. But, I think it would be just as easy to tee it into the "trailer-service" line between the double check valve and the tractor protection valve. Anyway, get the switch moved to a better spot first and see if everything works better.