doubleclutchinweasel

Bill "Grumpy" Jenkins at about 1:05 and Ronnie Sox right after that. Gotta' love Grumpy's cigar!

Ronnie Sox was one of the best I ever saw shifting a 4-speed. The pass starts at about the 50 second mark.

ouch!

Alaska Passage (1959) had B models in it.

Another one.

Mack built trailer.

I order it from Opti-Lube on Amazon

I'm a big fan of Opti-Lube. Adds lots of lubricity to the fuel, as well as the cleaning action.

Ya' know... Sucks to have to dig into it. But, once he's finished, the engine will be worthy of the rest of the truck.

I remember being on jobs and getting bulldozers that had just come back from "rebuild", and finding freshly-painted yellow sticks still poking out of the radiators. Found radiators clogged with paint. Worn out rollers and sprocket segments...all with a fresh coat of yellow paint on them! Engines low on oil, and old oil at that. I think they called that a "Rebuild-in-a-Can"...paint can, that is!

I think you are all over this. I have never seen bigger cans on the front axle. Seen same size a lot on dump trucks. Usually smaller fronts on tractors. Glad you got it sorted out.

THAT'S what the dash is supposed to look like! Clean. Simple. Easy to read. Easy to work on. NO PLASTIC! And I always loved the shape of the needles on the speedometer and tachometer. The heel of the needle always looked like a counterbalance to me. When they changed to the later needles, I always felt like we got cheated.

That's the ticket right there. Put the switch into the "trailer-service" line coming out of the double check valve, headed toward the tractor protection valve. This line should have pressure on it any time the foot valve or trolley valve is opened, regardless of the TP valve position. On my R, the double check valve was right at the foot valve. Not sure where it is on a B. If you have air pressure in the trailer "trailer-service" line (with TP valve to "normal" and no foot valve or trolley valve open), there is a problem somewhere else. With the TP valve to "normal", there should be air in the "trailer-emergency" line only (it charges the air system on the trailer). Only when you open the foot valve or trolley valve should you get air to the "trailer-service" line. Possibly leaking through trolley valve? Or a bad TP valve? Setting the TP valve to "emergency" kills all the air going to the trailer. On my R, there was a second switch that caused the brake lights to come on when the parking brakes were applied. It was normally closed, so it opened and shut off the lights when you applied air to overcome the spring brakes. When you dumped the air to allow the spring brakes to engage, the switch closed and turned on the lights. So, the brake lights were on any time the key was on and the parking brakes were set. Incidentally, if you have no intention of ever hooking up a trailer, you could conceivable put the switch into a line that feeds the brakes on the tractor. But, I think it would be just as easy to tee it into the "trailer-service" line between the double check valve and the tractor protection valve. Anyway, get the switch moved to a better spot first and see if everything works better.

Here's another link. https://manualsbrain.com/en/manuals/769543/ Sorry if I sound stupid on this one. The governor connection on mine was on the END of the head. That may not be the case with this one. If I'm off base, don't beat me too badly, Joey!

That looks a little bit like a 700, which is slightly different from the 550 I had on mine. Is that the unloader port, where the red arrow is pointing? If it is a 700, here's a link that might help. https://n0c357rmy1njbuit2friqwu.blob.core.windows.net/documents/R7UJunINI0EBhB_SD-01-335_US_000.pdf

Yep.

I THINK it was in the late '30s when they actually built their first in-house diesel engine. 1938 maybe? Of course, they continued to build gas engines LONG after that.

Oh, and this looks a lot like the pi Jo-Jo posted, but...

I like seeing those old MOTOR manuals. When I was a young-un, those were the ones we much preferred over the Chilton's. Most the new automotive manuals you get now at the parts houses are a joke. Too many places they say, "not serviceable" or "see your dealer". If I wanted to see the dealer, I wouldn't have bought your stupid manual!

That is cool. I wish something like that had existed when I did mine! Would have saved me a lot of time searching. Biggest hiccup I had was that I wanted to keep the 2-1/2" OD tube to match what was on there. Tubes that big were not common. Lots of 2", but not a lot of 2-1/2". Still drives me crazy that I can't find any info from where I bought that. Seems like I lost a hard drive on my computer sometime around then, and I think all my part numbers were on it.

Barry changed the "unread topics" line to red. Made it a lot easier for me to spot. Might consider doing something similar to the "hot topics" notification (see stars and circles below). I still have a hard time picking out the gray-on-gray shapes sometimes, under certain light. Maybe green or yellow for "new posts" and maybe red for the "hot topic-new posts"? What do you guys think? But, for the most part, I am really liking the new format. Kudos, Barry!

That is one key item. You can haul your own stuff. But, if you haul someone else's, it could be interpreted as commercial. I talked to one guy who won a court case for hauling a load of gravel for someone else. While the gravel was on his truck, it was eventually ruled that it was his. That was close!

Barry, I had similar issues replacing the tie rod and ends on my R (FA 535 axle). The factory cross tube was male-ended and the tie rod ends were those split females (have the parts breakdowns from Mack). Both were right hand threads, but one was coarse and one was fine. Somewhere along its life, somebody had swapped out the cross tube for one that was female threaded and used male tie rod ends. Still, there was a coarse and a fine thread. I could find those ends, believe it or not, but had no luck at all on finding a tube like that. When I changed it out (it was bent right through one of the ends), I found a cross tube that was within 1/4" of the same length, and was the same diameter in the center. I found "normal" LH/RH ends that fit the tube (1-1/8" threads, I think ... can't swear to it now though) and the knuckles (3/4" or 7/8"... again I can't remember now). The tube was a standard part, but I can't find any of the records on the purchase now. Seems like it may have been a Meritor part that fit some certain model of a Ford. Anyway, it fit beautifully and everything worked out perfectly. But, try as I might, I can't find any of the records where I bought the tube or the ends. I tried to find it to help some other guy on here fix his a while back, and just felt terrible that I couldn't dig up the info. I remember looking up tubes on Automann, Meritor, Euclid, and a slew of other places. I even found one outfit that would make pretty much any tube you wanted, for a fee. In the end, there was one available. Just wish I could find the records on it. So, I really appreciate what you are doing here. "Retrofit Kits" for some of the more common models would be a welcome sight. If I still had mine, I might could have come up with those numbers to help you spec out the R600/FA535 kit, but I just can't remember or find any of those old records.

You are pretty well right on the squat. The best alignment guy I ever knew even recommended setting tire pressure that way. He said to set the fronts at the max pressure listed on the tire, and adjust the rears so they would squat about the same as the fronts. I have found this to be right more often than wrong. On my 3500 Ram/Cummins, I run 80 PSI in the front and about 45 in the rear. Does wonders for the empty ride. The rears get bumped up to give the right squat when it's loaded.

I ran my fronts at the recommended pressure, which was around 100 psi. The rears on an unladen tractor just need enough air to make them stand up. 45-50 is probably good. But, do seat them first like Swishy said. Required air pressure depends on the weight they will see. Less weight needs less air. True, it’ll never ride great. But I got mine quite good by dropping the air pressure and getting the rims good and true on the spokes.