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Heinz if you find one I believe there were two different gaskets don't forget to order the gasket! If its available

That's exactly how I learned to Time an Engine. I remember I timed my 400M in my 79 Bronco then it got sent to the shop for some other things. I've know the owner since I was little and he asked me if I timed it by ear and when I said yes he laughed alil and said I was only about MAYBE a 10th off after checking it with his timing light.

Knowing the why is paramount, how can be picked-up. I was re-rationing a diff, I had the pinion at a local gear shop, and needed the spigot bearing peened on the shaft, so while it was there I had them replace the other two and set the pre-load (easy to do in a press). They gave it back with 0 preload on new bearings! When I pointed it out they claimed I didn't know what I was talking about, rather argue I brought it home and re-set. I guess theirs last long enough to get out of warranty, so good enough for them. 0 pre-load will outlast too much pre-load, but not nearly as much as correct pre-load. Knowing why is the key.

If the engine has an AMBC fuel pump You could try and extra Gasket under the fuel transfer pump ! The little pump in the main pump tend to put side thrust on the pump cam and Can change the timing on number one cyl as the bearings wear! just something to try! 🙄

Thanks

Do to our terrain we could have been still selling Mp10 here it is a brute pulling machine when everything works right! Volvo chose to shut Mack out on that deal! Hope your right about the shim thing stupid idea! The MP8 is set up much better a bit more mechanic friendly !

Tommy- for the alternator/generator and the starter, if you need anything and cannot find it and want to get what you have rebuilt, I highly recommend Vineland Auto Electric in Vineland New Jersey. They are HIGHLY regarded in the antique firetruck world for electrical components and systems.

While I would agree with the above in general, I have learned from experience on "heavy duty" spark ign engines without vacuum advance, that getting it right on spec does bring advantages. So worth the effort if you can. If you can't then at least you can get somewhat close.

i very rarely use timing marks because they either are unreadable, or simply not there. i time by ear. advance a touch and go for a ride. if it don't ping under full throttle, advance a little more. i keep advancing until i get ping under full throttle, than back off a bit. that usually gives me most power, and still spin over good for starting hot.

Changing parts,, yes,,, knowing why and how, different story.. if you just put the back case together without setting bearing preload, then you have problems, for example...

Yeah, it's usually cheaper to outright replace than to repair now. It used to be similar with engines, but we've seen a couple of fleets in our area request in-frames on ETECH or ASET engines, which to my surprise actually ended up being cheaper for them. As for transmissions (that aren't mDrives), we never tear them down with the exception of a few Allisons and one Eaton. Being a dealer, it very much is a Parts Cannon methodology: metal in trans fluid? Quote a reman and be on your merry way. It's always a parts changing job though!

I think they went away from the shim setup, but I could be mistaken, and they certainly fixed the cup issue after the early models of the engine; doesn't mean cups and injectors are flawless, we see a lot of failures there still! We have had quite a few gear train failures in MP7's now that you make me think of it. The MP10 honestly sold really poorly, at least in our area. I've only seen one truck to my knowledge with that engine.

Well Beautiful truck with an Ugly Price.

Harbor freight. They work fine and arent $100.00

I can’t believe you are still working on this truck. In the time you’ve been messing with it I’ve managed to take the transmission pan off my 68 Nova and set it on the roof, put my 53 Chevy pickup up in jack stands and pull the front wheels and replace half the spark plug wires on my wife’s pickup. At this rate you won’t make it to Macungie next year, yet alone this year. I’ll never get to see this truck. Mike

I don’t have a gun but may be able to get one however this eaving we installed a numbered water temp gauge in addition to factory gauge .Thanks for your input

I Love It !

I put some of that aluminum brightener on a rag and tried to clean off the timing marks. Sprayed it with carburetor cleaner too, and rubbed it with fine sandpaper. I still can't read any marks on it.

before the days of the poppit ball vent , tanks had the 1/4 copper tubing which came straight off the 90 degree fitting = out couple of inches then had a towards the sky bend which looped back down 1 1/2. never had to worry about a ball sticking; only situation was the darn bees making a nest and clogging the pipe! LOL

for ;points elimination, you really can not beat the pertronix ignitor. uses the factory distributor, cap, and rotor. all you need to do is remove the points, put the pickup in their place, slip the magnet over the distributor shaft under the rotor, and run the two wires out to the coil. after install i usually open the plug gap up a little, and advance timing around 4-5 degrees.

any chance the thrust buttons are out of adjustment and the cam is walkin' a bit?

have you taken the belts off and run it?

No it is not. That's pretty easy to pick out from everything else

do you have an infrared temp gun? if so, when it gets hot, pull over raise the idle up and check the water manifold at the rear of the rear manifold, and see if it is close to what the gauge says. there may be 10-15 degree difference due to shooting the outside of the manifold and not the coolant. just curious if you have a gauge issue or sensor issue right now. BTW... your truck is a CV-713 not 513.. Jojo

are you hearing the air compressor kick on and off?