Cruiseliner Transformation

[fjh]

3 minutes ago, fjh said:

Nah we have all the say ! He just owns the truck! 😂

I have actually adjusted one or two of these easier to remove it more room to work! If the ring will move is another issue! When we get our worker back he can decide!😂🙄

[Mark T]

I made a tool for that.  Sometimes the ring isn't very cooperative.

[fjh]

18 minutes ago, Mark T said:

I made a tool for that.  Sometimes the ring isn't very cooperative.

I have resorted to an impact chisel for these ! I have a 16 inch one just for this job! They can get nasty seized !

[cruiseliner64]

Thanks for the replys guys.On the build sheet for our Cruiseliner the clutch is described as a 14 inch twin dry plate self adjusting Spicer/Dana unit.When we got the truck there was no free play at the pedal.I removed the small plate with the 2 bolts and the small adjuster cog behind it which was stuck with dust.I then adjusted the larger adjuster wheel by tapping gently on the teeth with a screwdriver/rubber mallet untill I got 1 3/4in free play at the pedal.I found nothing that even looks like a clutch brake or parts of one in the bell houseing.Did it ever have one or was it removed by someone else?? I dont know. However my question is not clutch adjustment but trow out bearing adjustment.Iv read the trow out bearing should have a 1/2in gap between it and the pressure plate but ours is 3/4in. The clutch is working fine as it is with no grinding going into gear moving off.....maybe I should just leave well enough alone???

Paul

[Joey Mack]

Interesting... I never saw the adjustment gap related to the pressure plate, only between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake....  Well... I just learned something. 

[cruiseliner64]

1 hour ago, Joey Mack said:

Interesting... I never saw the adjustment gap related to the pressure plate, only between the throwout bearing and the clutch brake....  Well... I just learned something. 

You could be right Joey,I thought the article I read said bearing to pressure plate but now I'll read it again tomorrow and see.......thanks 

Paul

[Mark T]

Paul confused us all with a couple pictures of his clutch.  He's probably thinking " wtf did these guys do first time they got a look in a Playboy magazine ?"   The 1/2" should be between where the bearing and clutch brake is where it would squeeze against the front of the transmission. Which we can't see that in the pictures. Gotta remember, the more the big ring is turned to adjust it, the less holding force the clutch has. 

[Geoff Weeks]

9 hours ago, Mark T said:

. Gotta remember, the more the big ring is turned to adjust it, the less holding force the clutch has. 

Ok, since nobody wants to read the link, here are some screenshots that explain adjusting. 9/16 between bearing and cover with pedal depressed, 1/2 between back of bearing and clutch brake or bearing retainer with clutch pedal released. If you don't have a clutch brake installed the 1/2"measurement means nothing.

Angle spring clutches maintain clamp pressure through out the life of the clutch, which is why they are internally adjusted.

 

Edited 6 hours ago by Geoff Weeks

[fjh]

13 hours ago, cruiseliner64 said:

Thanks for the replys guys.On the build sheet for our Cruiseliner the clutch is described as a 14 inch twin dry plate self adjusting Spicer/Dana unit.When we got the truck there was no free play at the pedal.I removed the small plate with the 2 bolts and the small adjuster cog behind it which was stuck with dust.I then adjusted the larger adjuster wheel by tapping gently on the teeth with a screwdriver/rubber mallet untill I got 1 3/4in free play at the pedal.I found nothing that even looks like a clutch brake or parts of one in the bell houseing.Did it ever have one or was it removed by someone else?? I dont know. However my question is not clutch adjustment but trow out bearing adjustment.Iv read the trow out bearing should have a 1/2in gap between it and the pressure plate but ours is 3/4in. The clutch is working fine as it is with no grinding going into gear moving off.....maybe I should just leave well enough alone???

Paul

If You can get it into gear with out grinding AND you have the Inch and a half on the pedal I agree leave the bear sleeping! If it aint broke don't fix it! never seen one with out a clutch brake how ever ! in a unit this old they tended to put a spring loaded plate on the trans side for the brake to but against this one apears to have nothing! A picture with the pedal to the floor would maybe tell us if the brake is there or not!

[Geoff Weeks]

The 1/2" measurement is so the linkage has enough travel before it squeezes the clutch brake. Since you don't have a clutch brake installed you can ignore this measurement and just set the ~9/16" measurement between the T/O bearing and the clutch cover with the pedal pressed

Why you don't have a clutch brake is anyone's guess. 

The 9/16" will put the throw-out in the area where it should be. You can check the free play when it is set there.

With a properly set-up clutch and linkage, you want free play at the top, the arm set to where it has the most mechanical advantage when pulling in the angle spring, and enough travel before the clutch brake is squeezed against the bearing retainer to full release the clutch. 

 It is all in the manual I posted a link too. 

Without a clutch brake installed, setting the T/O where it is at the best mechanical advantage on the lever and still maintains the correct free play is all you need to worry about.

If the trans is ever pulled, I would install a torque limiting clutch brake, I wouldn't bother installing a 2 piece brake (just me, you do what you want) and just wait a bit for the gears to stop spinning before putting in low or reverse.

[mowerman]

Hehe mark I guess that… my manual isn’t much help either it’s dated 83