300+ rebuild

[Freightrain]

"dark grey".   Looks like a std grey primer color.  Not dark at all.  I knew it was likely not right.  Only bought one can.

Mack is definitely darker.

I am leaning towards grey instead of maxidyne gold.  The gold I bought for the transmission last year was horrible.

300 were gold, 300+ were grey.

[davehummell]

Larry don't feel too bad I have $2500.00 in my Shilo Sharps 45/70 and $2000.00 in my old Winchester model 94 38/55 and another $500.00 in a Uberti 45 colt rifle and probably another $ 2000.00 in bullet casting and loading tooling just to try hitting metal plate targets and every time I do the shoot I pay $10.00 bucks plus about 86 miles round trip in my $48,000.00 pickup and I'm the guy that brings home the targets and repairs them. I can just imagine how much it cost to run your drag car. 

[Freightrain]

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

[davehummell]

Larry you ever race at Numedia race track in PA.

[Freightrain]

No.  Only been to Pittsburgh and Beaver Springs.

[Joey Mack]

Did you buy the valve seals?  If not, post the part #..

[Freightrain]

Pick them up Tues.  Will post PT number.

[Joey Mack]

Ok.. i was hoping i had a set to send you.  All good.  

[Freightrain]

Thank you for the offer.

[Freightrain]

Ok, anyone have the part number for the crank hub for a 673!  Not the 300, but a END673.

I have to use the hub from my 673 motor like I did for the 237 to line up the belts.  I noticed the ID is kinda scored and actually worn on one side.  I would like to replace it if possible.

The one for the 300 is longer by about 3/4" and has a pilot sticking out for the balancer to register.  Unlike the 673 which has a small hub that registers in the counter bore shown.  This all shortens the length for the balancer to clear the front cross member.

[other dog]

16 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

That reminds me of a story Buddy Baker once told. When he first became an owner-driver and had his own race team instead of driving somebody else's cars he was pricing something, seems to me it was connecting rods. The parts man told him the price and he said "oh, that's not too bad for a set". Or he might have thought "wow, that's expensive for a set of rods!"  It''s been a while since I heard the story. Anyhow, he was thinking he was getting a set of 8, but the parts guy said "no, that's EACH". He said it was then that he realized just how expensive it was to go racing. 

[Vladislav]

19 hours ago, Freightrain said:

Once the car is running,it isn't that bad.  $60 to enter, $40 in race fuel a day.  Diesel fuel to get there($100?).

Building it was where it hurts.  $20k motor, $10k transmission, etc.  Luckily that stuff last a longggggg time.

 

Oh, ya forgot to mention, Mack valve stem seals $14 EACH!!!  Times 12.  Wth.

Larry, what kind of the stem seals are you going to use?

It's probably just my ignorance but as long as I could figure out Mack installed stem seals starting from E7 engine. I took apart two 4V E6 and there were neither seals. What corresponded with the overhaul manual and parts lists. Same for a couple 2V EM6's which went for stock of used spares yet. I suppose there wouldn't be any wrong installing seals in your engine (but who knows?) Just interesting to learn which part and how you determined its suitability.

 

[Vladislav]

And regarding your question on the sleeve/piston gap.

I don't know if anybody already answered it since some while passed by since you asked. I found a figure of 0.004"-0.007" in a E6 4V book. "Piston to liner clearance - 90 degree from pin axis" printed there. That engine uses almost similar sleeves you purchased. Pistons are not the same but I doubt on notable difference in thermal expansion between the two. 4V could be a little bit hotter providing 350hp so slightly lesser figures could be foreseen in your case. The same for light duty use without hard pulls of heavy loads.

[Freightrain]

My heads do have "wipers" as Mack calls them.  When I was speaking with the dealer the young parts man was all confused when I said valve stem seals.  That is the very common name for them in the "car" world.  Apparently Mack has their own terminology.  My heads have .500 stems and newer heads have .375.  They had tons of .375 in stock.  The .500 are 40 yrs out of date but they did find them at another place and will have them Monday.

I do know that Pontiac back in the 60-70s just used a basic O ring to help keep the oil from running down the valve stem.  It stayed on the stem and went up and down but it helped fling the oil off.

Ford used an upside down "cup" that rode on the stem but over time got hard and fell off.  You would get a cloud of blue smoke at start up from oil running down the stem after shutting the engine off.

Most engines have the more positive seal today using a metal housing that presses onto the guide and then has a rubber seal.  Which is what my heads have.

[Freightrain]

Got this off FB.

Part number for the hub.

Dropping off parts and liner puller to Mack friend and he may have one.

[Joey Mack]

Will you post a picture of a valve seal so I can see if the many sets I have are correct? . I dont need 4 sets, so if they are correct, I can offer them to BMT guys..  

[Freightrain]

Just see if they are for .500 stem.  They are noticably larger ID then the common .375 version.

Caliper the hole.  If .315 they are for .375 valve 

If .450 they are for .500 valve.

[Joey Mack]

I bet i have them..