Engine knocking

[Geoff Weeks]

Judging by the slop in the pictures it is beyond just grinding. it would need to be built back up and re ground, Can be done, question is: is it economical to do so? Most cases a used crank is cheaper.

[fjh]

46 minutes ago, terry said:

Would the crank be turnable there? would be alot cheaper to have bearings and maybe a rod shipped than a whole crankshaft.   terry

Terry check out the video highly doubt salvage! 30 thou min turn! My opinion!

[Joey Mack]

There was a good bit of movement.. 

[Joey Mack]

  I am trying to find info to make the search for a crank easier.  Guys,,,, chime in here... It looks like the crank for an END and an E-6 2-Valve may be the same.  If so, that may help with getting one, even though Macks are like hen's teeth is Ireland, but maybe there is a junker sittin somewhere that has a donor card..

[Mark T]

I didn't see any bearing in the pictures. It wasn't seized apparently.  Needs to mic it and see if there even is a chance the crank could be cut. (for real) From all the video and pictures, it's look'n like this engine's best years are behind it.  Easy for us guys here to not totally understand how difficult it may be to repair something like that where he is.  Might end up with a less than desireable repair to make it run again, and as a novelty truck ?? it might get by.

[Joey Mack]

[Joey Mack]

Ok.  I hope these part numbers help you...   Jojo

[mowerman]

Don’t know, man I watched all the videos. I can’t really see anything wrong with it. I must be missing something. Just a lot of dirty oil. 

[Geoff Weeks]

1st things 1st, find out the state of the parts he has. You can check the rods in the engine but you really need the crank out to check the mains good. Rod bearings can fail from excessive main clearance, as the oil goes 1st to the mains from the block, then through the crank drilling to the big end. 

Pistons rattling back and forth are another consideration. This wasn't a single failure but multiple problems. Before sinking good money into one part, assess the total condition of the engine and what it would take to bring it back.

Repairing this engine may cost more than importing another complete engine, that has been run and tested.

Will the block accept new liners?  Any cracks to the block, main bearing webs etc?  Will it need the main bearing saddles line bored? 

I myself, have been guilty at times, thinking I can fix "just one" problem only to discover several more after spending my money on the one part I thought it needed, hard learned experience when dealing with a big problem with expensive parts, is to make a complete assessment before spending dollar one.

I am in one now, that I thought could be fixed with one rod, one piston, but is getting a new block. Part of that is because I can't get correct parts to fit, but it also is "mission creep".   

[mowerman]

OK, I see it now. I missed the last video clip   Looks like bearing is completely missing 

[fjh]

2 hours ago, mowerman said:

OK, I see it now. I missed the last video clip   Looks like bearing is completely missing 

Yup! Also Geoff says it all there Gota know what you got!  Before throwing another big bag of money at a dead horse!

just sayin!

[mowerman]

Yes, I’m starting to think the same way after seeing all that play if I were you, I would not know which way to turn at this point since you’re short of Mack parts over there every which way you turn is gonna amount to many dollars sorry we don’t have any better news for you start looking into a rebuilt engine and then again that is probably going to take some doing

[mowerman]

Unfortunately, most of your good used engines are all in the north east of the United States shipping would probably be a fortune. I tried to buy a rebuilt steering box over in Florida, which is about 2500 miles and they wanted 900 bucks for the box and $900 to ship it here

[Joseph Cummings]

7 hours ago, mowerman said:

Unfortunately, most of your good used engines are all in the north east of the United States shipping would probably be a fortune. I tried to buy a rebuilt steering box over in Florida, which is about 2500 miles and they wanted 900 bucks for the box and $900 to ship it here

Yeah there are quite a few here. I know a lot of exporters that have them, but that engine weighs about 2,500 pounds complete. I can't imagine freight would be anything like cheap

[cruiseliner64]

18 minutes ago, Joseph Cummings said:

Yeah there are quite a few here. I know a lot of exporters that have them, but that engine weighs about 2,500 pounds complete. I can't imagine freight would be anything like cheap

Yeah freight charges are gone mad.We were quoted 450$ to ship two Mack mudflaps from the US to here.The flaps were only 60$.....crazy stuff

Paul

[mrsmackpaul]

Okay, well there is always good news

 

Should be able to get the crank built up and reground

Or maybe get one from the middle east, plenty of Mack stuff there, however the cranks are probably badly worn as well

So I would get it built up and re ground, it will be like a brand new crank then

I reckon this would be cheaper getting a crank out there

 

Paul

[Geoff Weeks]

Look closely at the mains, and main saddles. If the rods was that bad, and the pistons were that loose, I'd want to be sure the block will take a new crank without having to line bore the block. This is what I was getting after in a previous post.

 I worked briefly at a shop where the boss did a crank on an engine but didn't take the time to check the main bores, the crank didn't last but a few miles. Cost him big time, had to pull the engine back out and line bore (couldn't find a replacement cheap enough) the re work the crank for a 2nd time.

With that rod being so loose, and no shell to see, along with the pistons being loose, tells me it was run long enough to do serious damage. At least roll the mains on either side of that rod and inspect. 

At this point I see only two paths, one is to pull the engine and take it to someone reputable with the tools to check main saddles and assess what it would take to build what you have, and the other is to replace the whole engine with used.

No point sinking thousands into a replacement crank only to have it wiped in short order because the bearing bores aren't aligned.

Anyway you go is going to cost serious coin, the goal is to spend wisely so you don't have to keep putting good money after bad.

 From how it looks, you're not going to get away with a "band-aid" fix.  It is even possible that someone tried (writing on the crank) and that is how you ended up where you are.

 I feel for you, I have been there, but at least you don't have contracts waiting for you to deliver, and can invest the time and a little bit of money to prevent having to spend a ton of money on stuff that doesn't fix it right the 1st time.

Your rod and pistons clearance was much more than mine was when I lost a rod bearing, Only indication I had was slightly lower oil pressure and much higher oil temp then normal. Once I idled down then it knocked a little. Still cost me a rod, a crank and a piston. My mains were ok but two were into the copper when I pulled it apart.

I am not trying to be the profit of doom, but trying to keep you from spending any more money than you have to, in order not to have to fix it twice. 

[Geoff Weeks]

8 hours ago, Joseph Cummings said:

Yeah there are quite a few here. I know a lot of exporters that have them, but that engine weighs about 2,500 pounds complete. I can't imagine freight would be anything like cheap

I'd looking at what it really does cost to ship. talk to some import/export freight forwarders (freight brokers). If you can wait for it to come by sea, it may be more reasonable than you think.  If you need in less than a week then ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$).

Get aprox weight and crated dimensions. Go from there, at least you'll have an idea what one fixing option will cost. 

[mowerman]

10 hours ago, cruiseliner64 said:

Yeah freight charges are gone mad.We were quoted 450$ to ship two Mack mudflaps from the US to here.The flaps were only 60$.....crazy stuff

Paul

I had the same ones on my 82  cruise liner I think they were brand new back then not retro.lol bob

[cruiseliner64]

44 minutes ago, mowerman said:

I had the same ones on my 82  cruise liner I think they were brand new back then not retro.lol bob

Id say your right Bob...We want them because theyre the mudflaps on Pig Pens Cruiseliner...

Paul

[mowerman]

sorry about stepping on your toes nathan,,,but this happens quite often,,,im sure most of us are trying to figure out your best route,,,ive never seen pistons that loose either,,,thats just wierd,,bob

[mrsmackpaul]

Nathan

Try finding blokes that import Yanky stuff like motors for hot rods and muscle cars etc to the UK and Europe 

Last year I got 2 truck gear boxes sent from the U.S. to Australia for less than the cost of freighting two sets of mud flaps

I got these here from a bloke that imports cars and car parts,  I  just for a bit of room in a shipping container 

$300.00 Aus landed in Australia from the East coast of the U.S.

Which is kinda strange, it cost more to get them to the port in the U.S. than from the U.S. to Australia 

And it's cheaper to get things delivered to Australia from the East coast than West 

So maybe it might be cheaper to get things imported Sweden (lots Swedish people love the big Yank tank type of cars) and grab a ute a mate or the little woman and jump on a ferry from the UK to Europe and drive to Sweden to collect 

London to Stockholm is according to Google only 22 hours of driving, grab a mate and some good music, your there in a day and have a story to tell everyone 

 

Paul

[Nathanwhit1]

Tbh my mate has an international trucking business so he said if I find the parts he should be able too sort transport for me 

[mowerman]

excellent were getting closer,,bob

[Joey Mack]

Let me know if you need more part numbers let us know. I may have what you need..