Engine knocking

[Geoff Weeks]

Judging by the slop in the pictures it is beyond just grinding. it would need to be built back up and re ground, Can be done, question is: is it economical to do so? Most cases a used crank is cheaper.

[fjh]

46 minutes ago, terry said:

Would the crank be turnable there? would be alot cheaper to have bearings and maybe a rod shipped than a whole crankshaft.   terry

Terry check out the video highly doubt salvage! 30 thou min turn! My opinion!

[Joey Mack]

There was a good bit of movement.. 

[Joey Mack]

  I am trying to find info to make the search for a crank easier.  Guys,,,, chime in here... It looks like the crank for an END and an E-6 2-Valve may be the same.  If so, that may help with getting one, even though Macks are like hen's teeth is Ireland, but maybe there is a junker sittin somewhere that has a donor card..

[Mark T]

I didn't see any bearing in the pictures. It wasn't seized apparently.  Needs to mic it and see if there even is a chance the crank could be cut. (for real) From all the video and pictures, it's look'n like this engine's best years are behind it.  Easy for us guys here to not totally understand how difficult it may be to repair something like that where he is.  Might end up with a less than desireable repair to make it run again, and as a novelty truck ?? it might get by.

[Joey Mack]

[Joey Mack]

Ok.  I hope these part numbers help you...   Jojo

[mowerman]

Don’t know, man I watched all the videos. I can’t really see anything wrong with it. I must be missing something. Just a lot of dirty oil. 

[Geoff Weeks]

1st things 1st, find out the state of the parts he has. You can check the rods in the engine but you really need the crank out to check the mains good. Rod bearings can fail from excessive main clearance, as the oil goes 1st to the mains from the block, then through the crank drilling to the big end. 

Pistons rattling back and forth are another consideration. This wasn't a single failure but multiple problems. Before sinking good money into one part, assess the total condition of the engine and what it would take to bring it back.

Repairing this engine may cost more than importing another complete engine, that has been run and tested.

Will the block accept new liners?  Any cracks to the block, main bearing webs etc?  Will it need the main bearing saddles line bored? 

I myself, have been guilty at times, thinking I can fix "just one" problem only to discover several more after spending my money on the one part I thought it needed, hard learned experience when dealing with a big problem with expensive parts, is to make a complete assessment before spending dollar one.

I am in one now, that I thought could be fixed with one rod, one piston, but is getting a new block. Part of that is because I can't get correct parts to fit, but it also is "mission creep".   

[mowerman]

OK, I see it now. I missed the last video clip   Looks like bearing is completely missing 

[fjh]

2 hours ago, mowerman said:

OK, I see it now. I missed the last video clip   Looks like bearing is completely missing 

Yup! Also Geoff says it all there Gota know what you got!  Before throwing another big bag of money at a dead horse!

just sayin!

[mowerman]

Yes, I’m starting to think the same way after seeing all that play if I were you, I would not know which way to turn at this point since you’re short of Mack parts over there every which way you turn is gonna amount to many dollars sorry we don’t have any better news for you start looking into a rebuilt engine and then again that is probably going to take some doing

[mowerman]

Unfortunately, most of your good used engines are all in the north east of the United States shipping would probably be a fortune. I tried to buy a rebuilt steering box over in Florida, which is about 2500 miles and they wanted 900 bucks for the box and $900 to ship it here