Dakker Posted March 27, 2022 Share Posted March 27, 2022 I bought this truck a few months back, prior to winter setting in. I live in the central Idaho mountains and it gets pretty cold here. I parked it prior to winter and was firing it up every week or two. I went to fire it up one cold morning (-10F), it fired and ran sluggishly for a bit and died and would not re start. Solid crank, no fire. I had dosed it, it was not gelled. I did however seem to think I noticed ice in the bottom of the tank. Thought maybe I sucked up some water/ice. It is now 57F out for the last week or two. I have changed both fuel filters, siphoned the tank completely filled 80% with fresh diesel. And cannot get it to fire. I have tried over and over to make sure all air is out of the system. I've cracked lines all the way to the fuel pencils (I guess they are called, youtube said so). I've pressurized the tank with air. I'm fairly certain prime is not the issue. It will fire on ether. No smoke out the stack. Fairly certain it's just not getting fuel. I called the dealer. Gave them my VIN (009015) looks like I have a mechanical low pressure pump, the one where my secondary filter and prime button are and then have individual high pressure pumps at each injector..?? Is this the EUP thing? I don't quite understand that portion of my fuel system yet. I'm learning. But I don't believe they all quit at once. Are these mechanical pumps prone to failure? However I had pressure at the head when I cracked the fuel pencils. Could it possibly be electronic and something is not signaling these EUP's to fire? Do they work like that? Could it just be a fuse? I've not been able to find a bad fuse. I do not have an owner's manual nor can I read the inside of the cover for the fuse block in the engine bay. I've also checked all the fuses behind the cover on the passenger side dash. I have also noticed that my fuel gauge is not registering fuel. The tank is nearly 80% but gauge says E. Help please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 (edited) Possibly engine position sensor (front of engine at the cam) and or engine speed sensor (drivers side bell housing). You can unplug one and see if it starts. May take a little bit of cranking over. Are you positive you got all the air out? You may want to crack 1, 3, 5 injection lines and hand pump until fuel starts to come out. Then tighten them up. It will run on three cylinders. Edited March 28, 2022 by Onyx610 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Also Id suggest checking fuel pressure after all that. Just to make sure the lift pump is good. Also check the relays. Here is a check list for a no start that MackPro had posted a while back. engine_cranks_no_start.doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 do you have any codes? also, check fuse 40 or 41, in the fuse box that is on the firewall (left side).. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 I'm not 100% certain the proper procedure for pulling the codes, but when I hold the two buttons down for a few seconds and release. it says no fault. The lighting bolt is not lit up and does so for a second as the key is cycled to the on position as I would believe is normal. So I don't think the light is burned out kinda thing. Do you guys have anything that shows which fuses are which or at least a numbering of their locations. I don't have a owners manual and the inside of the cover for the engine bay fuse block is illegible. I can perform some of the steps in that doc you posted Oynx. I don't have capacity to do all of it. But let me work on this today. I'll try to post a few pictures as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 (edited) Possibly cracked pickup tube from the ice? Sucking air…Just throwing some ideas out there. Edited March 28, 2022 by Onyx610 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark T Posted March 28, 2022 Share Posted March 28, 2022 Sounds like it needs a new fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 28, 2022 Author Share Posted March 28, 2022 It's been pouring down rain today and the truck is outside in my driveway. Have not made any progress. It's mechanical, no? What is the issue that typically happens that makes them go out? This is what mine looks like.. are these prone to quitting on you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark T Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 IDK about prone to quitting, but if it had compromised fuel in it in -10 degree weather, I've seen them puke after trying to get them to run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 29, 2022 Share Posted March 29, 2022 Yes it’s mechanical Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 Those fuel transfer pumps are prone to failing. The drive gear slips on the shaft its pressed onto. Double check to see if there is any debris in the bottom of the fuel tanks. Also, if you can run an external fuel line right to the transfer pump to bypass the complete fuel system. Prime the fuel lines and see if it starts. If it doesn't then that pump is no good. Once you get the truck running, you may want to replace those fuel lines. I I believe there is a safety campaign that describes the procedure. V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onyx610 Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 9 hours ago, Vmac3 said: Those fuel transfer pumps are prone to failing. The drive gear slips on the shaft its pressed onto. Double check to see if there is any debris in the bottom of the fuel tanks. Also, if you can run an external fuel line right to the transfer pump to bypass the complete fuel system. Prime the fuel lines and see if it starts. If it doesn't then that pump is no good. Once you get the truck running, you may want to replace those fuel lines. I I believe there is a safety campaign that describes the procedure. V Wasn’t the gear slippage problem mostly on the e-techs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 30, 2022 Share Posted March 30, 2022 they were... i saw an updated one recently that had a 'hex' shaped spindle instead of the round knurld one of days ago... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtymilkman Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 3 hours ago, Joey Mack said: they were... i saw an updated one recently that had a 'hex' shaped spindle instead of the round knurld one of days ago... jojo I had one that spun a little on the shaft. Truck would lose power, in the shop the pressure would check fine, put a load on and it dumped the pressure. This guys sounds like the pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 Is mine not an E-Tech? I thought it was. I have been super busy and not had time to do much with it. Will keep you guys updated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 What exactly do I have? It's a 2007 CHN-613 with a grey motor and the tag on the valve cover shows it to be a 427. I was under the impression I had an E-Tech / AC ASET... Are they not the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 you have an ASET... do you have the big turbo? That makes it an ASET-C.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 How do the ASET and the E-Tech differ? From what I'm reading, the ASET was one to avoid. at least between 2004-2006.. Or is my '07 included in that avoid time frame? How do identify my turbo? I read that those were problematic as well? Looks like even the replacement turbo was an issue? I am fairly certain this was intended to be a OTR truck and not regional. I think that had something to do with which EGR system they came with. I do have an EGR Cooler below the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 I'm not at home or I'd go get some motor pics. This is all I have at the moment. Not of any help, but thought I'd share. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 still awesome... my bet it s an ASET-I.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted March 31, 2022 Author Share Posted March 31, 2022 All that snow is currently melting and I'm halfway into mud season. It's a nightmare trying to do much right now. Not to mention that I'm super busy trying to put a home, drill a well, dig a septic field out on the 11 acres we just purchased. Too much to do and not enough time. And to top it all off this thing is sitting in my driveway not running. Wife's not happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 15 hours ago, Onyx610 said: Wasn’t the gear slippage problem mostly on the e-techs? No. It reared its ugly head on these ones as well. V 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vmac3 Posted March 31, 2022 Share Posted March 31, 2022 10 hours ago, Dakker said: How do the ASET and the E-Tech differ? From what I'm reading, the ASET was one to avoid. at least between 2004-2006.. Or is my '07 included in that avoid time frame? How do identify my turbo? I read that those were problematic as well? Looks like even the replacement turbo was an issue? I am fairly certain this was intended to be a OTR truck and not regional. I think that had something to do with which EGR system they came with. I do have an EGR Cooler below the turbo. Your engine is an ASET-AC engine. THE ASET-AI was used in the R models, Granites and MR's. Basically used for construction. The ETECH and ASET_AC engine blocks and fuel system are the same. Just the emissions stuff is different. Imagine your engine without all the steel piping and egr cooler and a smaller turbo. Then basically you have an ETECH. V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dakker Posted July 23, 2022 Author Share Posted July 23, 2022 IT RUNS! Well, it's been awhile since I have been on here. Mainly because life gets in the way. This truck was purchased to replace my dying Freightshaker.. Now that she's running again, I'll probably be on here quite a bit more as I get this truck up and going and put into service. So, the problem all boiled down to prime. I bought this thing in January this year. We were so buried in snow and what not, I chose to let it sit till winter was over. One cold morning I decided to see how it would do on cold starts. (-20F) I had dosed the tank. But there was water at the bottom. Didn't know it till this happened. I fired it up. She ran for about a minute and then acted like it was running out of fuel. I popped the cap and the fuel was clear. no gelling. I noticed at the bottom of the tank right at the entrance to the pickup tube, what looked like ice. I think I sucked up some of that and caused the truck to die. I decided to drain the tank and get all the water out and replace both fuel filters. Did all that. And after that I just couldn't get it started. Didn't realize it would take an act of GOD to get it primed again. So today, I took a mechanic's advice and pressurized the tank and started spraying ether. It took a bit, but she finally fired and is running again. I've primed Detroits, CATs, and Volvos.. Never one of these motors. WOW. Unreal what it takes to get these to suck fuel again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 23, 2022 Share Posted July 23, 2022 next time you loose fuel prime, put the ether away, and loosen the small fuel line at the lift pump at the right front corner of the engine. pressurized the left tank with caution, when fuel bubbles out of the loose fitting, stop, tighten the fitting.. then loosen 3 fuel lines at the head, no need to remove the fuel line nut, just 2 full turns loose. and pump the primer, and gently pull the loose line out to get it to bleed. then tighten it. torque to about 40 lbft or so, (by feel if you need too) then back it off then re tighten to about 25lbft. do this to each line one at a time.. then crank it.. it will start, stumble, then clear out.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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