Dakker

It has developed a louder than normal, in my opinion, valve train noise. It seems to come and go. Sometimes she purrs, sometimes it sounds bad. If the dealer that did my overhead screwed up, is there any way to know for sure? I've been having issues with them since I got my truck back. They were supposed to go through it and do a bunch of little repairs. They had my truck for over 2 months. And when I got it back, it wasn't greased, at all. (PM service was done). A part to fix my A/C was supposedly ordered overnight but took almost a month to get there. Even though I was told it was in stock. I finally picked up my truck without that part and have since tried to get them to refund me the $400 for it to no avail. I don't have much confidence in them. I'd really like to hear more about what can and WILL happen if that was not done correctly..

No offense taken Joey, you are good. Is it possible the dealer that did my overhead caused this issue?

Not sure if I said something that led you to believe that the heads have been off, they have not. The overhead was supposedly just done recently. The jake on that back bank quit working shortly there after. Had a shop in sioux falls put a new jake solenoid in and repair the wiring to it. So the valve covers have been off, but not the heads.

Joey, if that is the case, is it just a head gasket? Or could it be a liner? or maybe even both? All of this started with just the over pressurizing of the cooling system, the oil, is a newer symptom. The rough running came with the oil discovery.

Quick update and a few pictures.. The cylinder head is dry below the valve cover, and all wet with oil below the exhaust manifold. And all of this appears to only be on the rear bank. There is oil in the exhaust and I am wondering if that oil coming from the turbo is just a result of the oil going through the entire exhaust system, presumably from the combustion chamber. Just speculation at this point from what I am seeing. Rough running, over pressurizing of the cooling system, oil in the exhaust. I'm still going to try and tear into it, just got it home. Buried in snow and 20 degree temps through. Want to pull the pipe between the cooler and the intake and check like FJH recommended, Thinking about pulling the turbo off and confirming that the inside of the exhaust manifold is oil soaked as well. If it were the turbo leaking the oil, the manifold should be dry, no? I'll post more pics and what I find when I get into it. Not sure exactly when that will be just yet.

I have a 2007 CHN613 with a 427 ASET, I believe anyways.. The truck is relatively new to me, so I'm still trying to come up to speed on some of the nomenclature. Is this motor an E-7? Or was that earlier versions only? I've been running this truck cross country for about 10k miles now. I have had this issue where the coolant was blowing out the overflow reservoir. The cooling system builds too much pressure and the cap opens and it will overfill the reservoir and continue to do so spilling coolant all over. I have been trying to resolve where this over pressurizing of my cooling system is coming from. No luck trying to sort through that yet. Yesterday, the truck started running rough. Not bad, and it tends to run smoother at higher RPM. I noticed today oil seeping from the exhaust manifold/turbo area. The side of the block looks like its starting to get wet. There is oil in the exhaust. I do notice a tiny bit of smoke at start up, but it tends to clear up as the engine comes up to operating temp. Over the last couple days noticed some codes popping up and then disappearing. Some EUP codes.. 8-3, 8-4. Currently only code I'm able to pull is 9-5, however, I've seen everything from 1-7 (to be expected), 2-8, and 10-1. This 9-5 code goes inactive if I raise the RPM to above 1300. Comes back as the engine slows back down. I don't believe it is an EGR Cooler, as in my experiences, EGR cooler's tend to run at lower PSI than the cooling system, causing the coolant to go into the exhaust, vs the exhaust going into the cooling system, but I won't say it's not possible. But that doesn't explain the oil in the exhaust, the EGR valve could explain that though. Or could my issues be something bigger? And if so, what's the best way to go about trying to diagnose? This truck does not run hot, both the water and the oil temp lead me to think it actually runs on the cooler side. Running down the highway pulling an empty 10k lb. trailer, she'll run at a cool 175. Too cool? Loaded, pulling weight/grade barely breaks 200, and that's under extreme load. Less weight/grade and it creeps up to just shy of the 200 mark and holds steady. I can't think of any other symptoms at the moment. Does this lead some of you experts on this motor to a potential cause? Please help, I am getting desperate and not confident in today's R&R till it's fixed mechanics that tend to be everywhere. Much appreciated for any help/advice you all can give.

IT RUNS! Well, it's been awhile since I have been on here. Mainly because life gets in the way. This truck was purchased to replace my dying Freightshaker.. Now that she's running again, I'll probably be on here quite a bit more as I get this truck up and going and put into service. So, the problem all boiled down to prime. I bought this thing in January this year. We were so buried in snow and what not, I chose to let it sit till winter was over. One cold morning I decided to see how it would do on cold starts. (-20F) I had dosed the tank. But there was water at the bottom. Didn't know it till this happened. I fired it up. She ran for about a minute and then acted like it was running out of fuel. I popped the cap and the fuel was clear. no gelling. I noticed at the bottom of the tank right at the entrance to the pickup tube, what looked like ice. I think I sucked up some of that and caused the truck to die. I decided to drain the tank and get all the water out and replace both fuel filters. Did all that. And after that I just couldn't get it started. Didn't realize it would take an act of GOD to get it primed again. So today, I took a mechanic's advice and pressurized the tank and started spraying ether. It took a bit, but she finally fired and is running again. I've primed Detroits, CATs, and Volvos.. Never one of these motors. WOW. Unreal what it takes to get these to suck fuel again.

All that snow is currently melting and I'm halfway into mud season. It's a nightmare trying to do much right now. Not to mention that I'm super busy trying to put a home, drill a well, dig a septic field out on the 11 acres we just purchased. Too much to do and not enough time. And to top it all off this thing is sitting in my driveway not running. Wife's not happy.

I'm not at home or I'd go get some motor pics. This is all I have at the moment. Not of any help, but thought I'd share.

How do the ASET and the E-Tech differ? From what I'm reading, the ASET was one to avoid. at least between 2004-2006.. Or is my '07 included in that avoid time frame? How do identify my turbo? I read that those were problematic as well? Looks like even the replacement turbo was an issue? I am fairly certain this was intended to be a OTR truck and not regional. I think that had something to do with which EGR system they came with. I do have an EGR Cooler below the turbo.

What exactly do I have? It's a 2007 CHN-613 with a grey motor and the tag on the valve cover shows it to be a 427. I was under the impression I had an E-Tech / AC ASET... Are they not the same?

Is mine not an E-Tech? I thought it was. I have been super busy and not had time to do much with it. Will keep you guys updated.

It's been pouring down rain today and the truck is outside in my driveway. Have not made any progress. It's mechanical, no? What is the issue that typically happens that makes them go out? This is what mine looks like.. are these prone to quitting on you?

I'm not 100% certain the proper procedure for pulling the codes, but when I hold the two buttons down for a few seconds and release. it says no fault. The lighting bolt is not lit up and does so for a second as the key is cycled to the on position as I would believe is normal. So I don't think the light is burned out kinda thing. Do you guys have anything that shows which fuses are which or at least a numbering of their locations. I don't have a owners manual and the inside of the cover for the engine bay fuse block is illegible. I can perform some of the steps in that doc you posted Oynx. I don't have capacity to do all of it. But let me work on this today. I'll try to post a few pictures as well.

I bought this truck a few months back, prior to winter setting in. I live in the central Idaho mountains and it gets pretty cold here. I parked it prior to winter and was firing it up every week or two. I went to fire it up one cold morning (-10F), it fired and ran sluggishly for a bit and died and would not re start. Solid crank, no fire. I had dosed it, it was not gelled. I did however seem to think I noticed ice in the bottom of the tank. Thought maybe I sucked up some water/ice. It is now 57F out for the last week or two. I have changed both fuel filters, siphoned the tank completely filled 80% with fresh diesel. And cannot get it to fire. I have tried over and over to make sure all air is out of the system. I've cracked lines all the way to the fuel pencils (I guess they are called, youtube said so). I've pressurized the tank with air. I'm fairly certain prime is not the issue. It will fire on ether. No smoke out the stack. Fairly certain it's just not getting fuel. I called the dealer. Gave them my VIN (009015) looks like I have a mechanical low pressure pump, the one where my secondary filter and prime button are and then have individual high pressure pumps at each injector..?? Is this the EUP thing? I don't quite understand that portion of my fuel system yet. I'm learning. But I don't believe they all quit at once. Are these mechanical pumps prone to failure? However I had pressure at the head when I cracked the fuel pencils. Could it possibly be electronic and something is not signaling these EUP's to fire? Do they work like that? Could it just be a fuse? I've not been able to find a bad fuse. I do not have an owner's manual nor can I read the inside of the cover for the fuse block in the engine bay. I've also checked all the fuses behind the cover on the passenger side dash. I have also noticed that my fuel gauge is not registering fuel. The tank is nearly 80% but gauge says E. Help please!

Has anyone come up with any mods that help to fix the issues without deleting?

Okay, so looks like deleting isn't really a viable option. Too much risk with the powers that be. I read some posts and saw what kinds of fines are possible. Don't want to go down that road.

Did a little bit of research.. Internal cooling of the EGR vs Coolant cooled.. Basically the CEGR has a EGR Cooler. I believe this one does. Can they not be deleted? Egr/EGR Cooler delete... To eliminate that headache and wallet busting junk..

Hello all, New here. Not to the trucking industry though. Currently own a 2011 Cascadia DD15 and a 2008 VNL670 D13. Looking to add a 3rd truck to my fleet and stumbled across this E7. I think the manufacture date was late 2006. Can't remember what the sticker said. It's very low miles.. under 30k, but 15,000 hours on the clock. It has a PTO. Not sure what it was used for, but the 5th wheel plate doesn't even look like it's been greased. ever. The frame looks as clean as it did in 2007 practically. You can tell it's actual miles. I was initially excited when I found out it was not another D13 (MP) motor. I've had my share of Volvo issues. Injector, EGR Cooler, EGR, DPF, etc. etc. But then started reading about E7's.. Torn here. I've seen posts where guys talk about how reliable the E7 is. Although that suffered from like 2003-2006 or something like that. Basically when the electronics and EGR stuff started ramping up. Is this one going to be a lemon or is it late enough that they sorted through all the issues. Seen some posts about hindsight and knowing the fixes to a lot of these issues. Can I buy and fix prior to having issues? Price is right. Just don't have enough background with MACK. Should I pull the trigger. Or stay away? Any help is much appreciated! Fixes? Dealer recommended bring it in and go through the overhead. And if it makes a difference, it's the silver. 13 Eaton. Flat top sleeper. With a drop axle. Although I don't think I plan to go heavy with it. Probably just roll 80k on 5.