R.E.D Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 (edited) 7 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: and it may very well be a blown int. or exh. gasket... but still... when you found the EUP issues, you truly beat the devil before he showed his horn's..... I feel like youre approach for this issue is pretty good. I'm sure others will agree... jojo I sure do hope so...but the weird thing is that the truck is not down on power or blowing any kinda colorful smoke..next step is to run the overhead as I only checked it the other day , didn't want to start messing with it and have it affect diagnosis..like I mentioned before, valve lash was only slightly off on a couple valves..not enough to cause the ticking ,I supposed back then Edited November 16, 2021 by R.E.D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 If I may??? do you know how to run the rack properly?? No dissrespect here.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 16, 2021 Author Share Posted November 16, 2021 1 minute ago, Joey Mack said: If I may??? do you know how to run the rack properly?? No dissrespect here.. jojo No disrespect at all, I'm here to learn . I went by the mack repair manual .I lined up the valve marks at the flywheel on 1 &6 . 1 being on compression i checked the lash.then proceeded to 5 which is 120degres apart and the next on the firing order. And so on an so forth , two full revolutions to check all valves...but please advice if I missed something.like I said .I'm here to learn..also pressed the spring on the exhaust pushroad and held it pressed when checking exhaust lash... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 very good.. Just a thing here that I was taught by an old timer... To be sure you are 'up' on #1..... the Exh. rocker on #2 will be 'Rocked' ( pushing down)..... That s how I know I'm right.. I am not saying that my way is the only way, but...... my way works..... Jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 First time doing these exhaust spring push rod engines...I was used to etechs and mech e7s.....how I miss my old mechanical e7, 350hp with an adjustment on the puff limiter and it would run circles around the ami..best of all..no computer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Hell yeah... you got this... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 UPDATE I took off the oil pan, checked lifters and from what I could see the were oriented in the correct way.cam lobes looked great .I adjusted valve lash and ticking went away..then it started ticking again,valve cover off I noticed valve yoke for 1 piston laying there , by this time truck was miss firing..I adjusted the valve again and noise went away...I triple check my torque on all valve jam nuts to 45ft pounds.seems to be running great.ill keep you all posted. Ps:also check rod bearing and they have plenty life left in them. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 Forgot to add that truck today started humming..is this the centrimax or oil pump causing it? I don't think it's because rod bearings , everything was good on that part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 22, 2021 Share Posted November 22, 2021 the centrimax filter sounds like a commiecazie airplane fixin to hit a target,,, shut the engine off and listen to it spin down, it lasts about 30 seconds... just for kicks, open the hood so you can put youre hand on it, then shut it off and hurry out of the seat to feel the filter.. just my crazy thought... it's doable, I had to do it many times to see if the spinner was worn out, and when I held it in my hand I could feel the imbalance in the spinner, and replaced the spindle... and then it was fixed... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 22, 2021 Author Share Posted November 22, 2021 The old one seemed hard to spin when removing it ,but new one spun better .I'll check it out and keep you all posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted November 22, 2021 Share Posted November 22, 2021 ok early spinners had a different spindle than the newer ones.. there were 2 different filters for early E-techs and 2002ish E-techs.. I used too be able to spit the part #'s out... now.... not so good... 2134. and 3178 rings my bell but I forgot the prefix... dammit!!! 34 Gb or something... anyway, check the centrimax filter #... I prefer Mack or Donaldson for this filter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
880joe Posted November 23, 2021 Share Posted November 23, 2021 R.E.D. you said 1 eup was higher in pressure at 413 others was 340 to 370 what is pressure when new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 4 hours ago, 880joe said: R.E.D. you said 1 eup was higher in pressure at 413 others was 340 to 370 what is pressure when new? I'm not sure , because I just replaced the one with high pressure and the one that was stuck..but he did say 291 was kinda on the threshold and would need to be replaced if it went lower than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted November 23, 2021 Author Share Posted November 23, 2021 One thing I did notice is that my MPG went up by .5 miles per gallon.and the power is more constant throughout the RPM range. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 The ticking sound has returned...over the past few months I've isolated it to the exhaust valve on the number 4 cylinder..it constantly needs to be adjusted every two weeks and ticking goes away. Besides a bad roller on a lifter , what else causes a valve to loose it's valve lash adjustment?I'm currently running the truck and it seems fine just that one valve is acting up.im just ready to throw a cam from an Ac motor if this one is toast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 have you dropped the pan and looked at the cam yet? My guess is the pushrod is spring loaded. what kind of shape is it in? compared to the others? are you only adjusting the lash, or are you adjusting the yoke and engine brake too? another thought, do you have a powerleash engine brake? and (With respect) do you know how to adjust the exhaust valve and engine brake lash on that setup? by now I would think the ceramic roller has fallen off and you are riding on the yoke on the lifter. does it make a noise in the exhaust like a popping sound... sorry about all these questions, just trying to get an idea why you need to adjust it often.. i bet your arm is tired from barring the engine around to #4 so many times.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 No engine brake...I haven't dropped the pan since I started this post ,and everything looked great.this motor does not have valve joke adjustment from what I saw ,just the valve lash...no Poppin sound just ticking..I will check the pushrod and shine a light down there to see if the h ring has come loose.Truck does not smoke at idle or under load..just smokes black when I get it on it and roll some coal..lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 so you dont have adjusting screws on the exhaust yoke/bridge? im just curious.. i have seen pinless intakes with a solid yoke, but i dont recall a solid exhaust yoke right now.. but maybe, sorry I get rusty at times,.. is the tranny an Allison? sorry for my Q's,,,, I too am trying to learn something here... no matter how many of these trucks/engines I have worked on, I always learn something... Maybe I should have already known the answer... as far as checking the H-ring.. yes you can see if it has turned, however, the slightest rotation will kill a lifter and cam. the real way to check rotation is a long process.. what you can do is use the long end of a coat hanger or a welding rod to check the depth compared to the others. there is an 1/8 " allowance. the H-rings are checked with the heads off and/or the cam out.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 19 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: so you dont have adjusting screws on the exhaust yoke/bridge? im just curious.. i have seen pinless intakes with a solid yoke, but i dont recall a solid exhaust yoke right now.. but maybe, sorry I get rusty at times,.. is the tranny an Allison? sorry for my Q's,,,, I too am trying to learn something here... no matter how many of these trucks/engines I have worked on, I always learn something... Maybe I should have already known the answer... as far as checking the H-ring.. yes you can see if it has turned, however, the slightest rotation will kill a lifter and cam. the real way to check rotation is a long process.. what you can do is use the long end of a coat hanger or a welding rod to check the depth compared to the others. there is an 1/8 " allowance. the H-rings are checked with the heads off and/or the cam out.. jojo No sir..fixed valve bridges.trans is t310m...I'll take a look this weekend concerning the h ring.funny thing is that it only takes almost one full turn of the adjustment screw to get back into the .024 lash..truck runs good and little by little the ticking gets more pronounced...I always torque to spec ,and never has the jam but been loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 13, 2022 Share Posted July 13, 2022 sounds like you are riding on the lifter yoke.. sorry bud.. well, if it gets you by for a while, keep going.. the cam kits are available from PAI.. $2000.00 + the bushing set is $105.00 with a thrust washer. if you havent looked already, just type in the mack engine type and kit you want... the last 2, I built I got parts from ATL Diesel.. but there are others that compete on price. I like free shipping.. go with steel lifters. $100.00 each... jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 13, 2022 Author Share Posted July 13, 2022 3 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: sounds like you are riding on the lifter yoke.. sorry bud.. well, if it gets you by for a while, keep going.. the cam kits are available from PAI.. $2000.00 + the bushing set is $105.00 with a thrust washer. if you havent looked already, just type in the mack engine type and kit you want... the last 2, I built I got parts from ATL Diesel.. but there are others that compete on price. I like free shipping.. go with steel lifters. $100.00 each... jojo I figured as much .just wanted a second opinion.i have seen you mentioned Atl before and since then I've been checking out their website...only thing I need is the part number of the ac cam ..will be getting rid of the ami exhaust bump..is has been talked about in the "dead dog remediation"post but I haven't seen a concrete answer on the subject yet as to what part number...my buddy has a 2004 sfa ch with a AC 427hp rating..been thinking of using his vin to find cam that way too . please advice. Why steel lifters over the ceramic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 as far as lifter's.. its just my opinion.. I really dont have a good answer.. I just like steel over ceramic, but I have seen ceramic run for a long time. the one I am currently building is 11 years old and the ceramic lifters did not fail.. truth is, with ceramic lifters, I dont like loading the cam in the block, in chassis. I would rather have it on a rotating stand so i can tip it upside down.. i think using the other VIN is a good idea.. make sure you know what cam key is used. it may be straight but ,,, be sure... white side out for the 427/460hp.. if its offset.. jojo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 Do asets have offset cam keys?I thought it was only etechs? But I'll make sure anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joey Mack Posted July 14, 2022 Share Posted July 14, 2022 i just tossed that out there.. I always look.. the ASET-C i finished last week had a straight key.. jojo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R.E.D Posted July 14, 2022 Author Share Posted July 14, 2022 59 minutes ago, Joey Mack said: i just tossed that out there.. I always look.. the ASET-C i finished last week had a straight key.. jojo Thanks Joey, I found it in my book.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.