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Low to mid rpm ticking sound


R.E.D

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Truck has developed a low to mid rpm ticking sound.seems the same on power.the air compressor is passing a good bit of oil and noise comes from that area.Im waiting for a mechanic stethoscope to kinda zero in on the source..I'm thinking air compressor but I'm also wanting to check the eups since the rollers or springs could be bad.im going to order the eup orings and see what happens.What other components do yall recommend I check? ticking sound is felt most from 800 to 1300 rpm.let me know what y'all think .

 

Thanks 

Red

Edited by R.E.D
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3 hours ago, fjh said:

I would run thru a valve set and see if you find any loose valves you may have a cam failure underway ! 

Yea figured so..if cam shaft is failing , at least I'll get rid of the exhaust bump and put a ac cam..it's suprising how dirty and thick the oil gets from the exhaust scavenging.

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5 hours ago, Joey Mack said:

well there,,,   did you look at the cam lobes in the EUP bores?  Good luck man,  you may have caught this before the BIG problem happens..  jojo

They looked great, so did the rollers.no scratches.valve lash was still good.. could use adjustment on some valves , I'll run the overhead once everything is back together

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49 minutes ago, 880joe said:

Is it really needed to have the eup's programmed? I have changed several and never did that but only on 1 set couldn't tell any difference in the way they ran just in my wallet when Mack got done with me

It's required per the manual , but I really couldn't tell you.Im just gonna be there anyway for the hp upgrade so might as well.

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the engine will run good,, but we were always taught to enter the codes, especialy when changing several of them... I also beleive it is required for warranty, of course, Warranty is just a word, and rarely ever an action.. ...jojo

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3 hours ago, 880joe said:

Is it really needed to have the eup's programmed? I have changed several and never did that but only on 1 set couldn't tell any difference in the way they ran just in my wallet when Mack got done with me

The trim / cal code is just a finer adjustment for the puter to use as a starting point was how it was explained to me ! Not totally necessary but not a bad idea to get it done! Good find RED Check the Guide pins while your rollers are up bud ! Also  Bro some Advice !  Replace All the EUP bolts these tend to work loose and break occasionally!  

Edited by fjh
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6 hours ago, fjh said:

The trim / cal code is just a finer adjustment for the puter to use as a starting point was how it was explained to me ! Not totally necessary but not a bad idea to get it done! Good find RED Check the Guide pins while your rollers are up bud ! Also  Bro some Advice !  Replace All the EUP bolts these tend to work loose and break occasionally!  

Guide pins look good, haven't measured them but all look good,I think the book says 2mm stick out ,can't quite remember.i had all the eup  tested ..the 3 suspected to be good passed the test.two of the ones with loose springs just needed a new clip the injector shop guy said....so far , one was bad for sure.ill pick them up tomorrow morning and see what's what..I got some Bosch reman on will call at m&d distributors ready to be picked up in case I decide to just replace the 3 questionable ones..431$ a piece.

 

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Just now, Joey Mack said:

just for kicks, take the belts off of the engine when engine temp is at the point when the noise is there,,, cold or hot...  run it for a few minutes and listen... jojo

Joey I kinda was getting the same idea,but didnt unhook the belt, I stethoscoped the water pump and alternator and they sounded good..noise kinda sounds like a blown exhaust gasket on a small block Chevy.

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and it may very well be a blown int. or exh. gasket...   but still...  when you found the EUP issues, you truly beat the devil before he showed his horn's.....  I feel like youre approach for this issue is pretty good.  I'm sure others will agree...  jojo

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