Jump to content

New Mack AB "project" Owner


Recommended Posts

Nice finds. AC /AB stuff while some what rare is around. Look around old mining and logging sites around you. Steelman on here has made some very nice repro panels and may be of help. 

I would pull off the pair of inspection covers on the drivers side of the block and see if there is and bad stuff that found its way in, shoot some Marvel on the crank and rod journals to give it some help while the top end is soaking.


Edited by 41chevy


 “Life’s journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting ‘Holy shit, what a ride!’


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the advice. What oil should I use in this engine. Its clean inside like its never been started, except these is a lot of heavy dust in there.  I will need to flush it all out of there out. I have a solvent tank with 40 gallons of new solvent. I might just wheel it on over there and spray the solvent in there. Then re-oil everything. I could not believe they had roller lifters back then.  I really do think the guy got through most of the chassis restoration a long-long-time-ago.

Not a rut pit on this truck.

Not a rust pit on this truck20190430_185226.jpg.ecc670d1ddaef5ded3b25455ea829f05.jpg





The only way to get that dust out of there will be to hose it out of there with solvent. No water ever got down in there.   As a former fleet mechanic I can say, that I wish all engines had inspection covers. I can't believe they had aluminum blocks that early.



Also how much oil does it take? How far above the dipper reservoirs should it be?



  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent project trucks!

SAE 30 or 40 non detergent oil is what you will want to use.  SAE 30 would work for most and the 40 would be for 90 degrees or higher extended outside temp.  Make sure the oil has ZDDP (zinc/phosphorus) as part of the oils recipe or get some ZDDP as an additive to use with the oil. 

ZDDP used to be in most oil but has been removed for emission reasons as it will kill catalytic converters.

Back in the day, these trucks would run 500-1000 miles and have the oil changed.


It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with the 30 or 40 weight engine oil, but do not agree with non detergent.  When I started in the hobby 56 years ago  I was told detergent  oil would wipe out Babbitt bearings, etc. 56 years later, and a mechanical Engineering degree , I have used detergent oil, and it keeps everything cleaner, and have had no bearing break down.  No more sludge in the bottom of the sump, etc.  The additives I do agree with.  In the transmission/ rear end (shaft drive), I use 75w, 90w or 75w-90w oil.  Same for steering gear.  The magneto wants light weight oil like sewing machine oil (3in 1 oil), and the manual says about four drops.  Spring hangers and Clevis want engine oil, and chassis wants grease.  I have used marine waterproof grease for chassis as it doesn't want to melt away it seems.  Just my 2 cents worth. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for the advice. 30 Weight oil is what I will go with.   I remember back when engines had lots of sludge in them you were not suppose to use the detergent oil or it would dissolve the thick sludge and cause problems. But that was engines with oil pumps. 

I've been studying. I was reading up on Non-detergent oil versus detergent oils in splash lubrication engines. There are all kinds of forums and nobody can seem to  agree. Some say detergent oil will turn to foam in an engine with splash lubrication and non-detergent will not. One of the questions years ago on tan ASE test was an engine has zero oil pressure, what is the cause? The answer was an overfilled crankcase, the crankshaft was dipping into the oil and aerating it. If detergent oil does get frothy if its being whipped up maybe its not a good idea to use it in a splash lubricated engine?

They almost all agreed that detergent oil keeps the particles suspended in the oil where they can be filtered out by the oil filter. When there is no oil filter, its better that those particles  settle to the bottom of the oil pan. I know a lot of small engines with splash oiling say, "use detergent oil only". As many miles as this truck would ever get driven I don't think non-detergent would cause sludge in my Especially if I changed it every 500 miles.  I'm leaning towards a 30W non-detergent, if I can find one with the zinc in it. I might just need to add it to it. I'll do some more research on the subject, maybe see what the Model T & A Ford guys are using in their splash lubricated engines.

I found this about flathead Ford V8s. Its from one of the vintage Ford parts dealers. "Since the Flathead Ford V8 engine did not originally have an oil filtration system, it is highly recommended that you use a 30 weight non-detergent motor oil. Consult with your engine rebuilder".

Any idea how much oil this engine takes?  I don't see any thing for checking the level like a dipstick or sight glass. Pretty sad, I was a ASE vehicle and trucks Master mechanic with 17 certifications and 40 year experience and I can't figure out how to check the oil. I thought maybe you pulled a side inspection cover and measured  the oil level above the dipper reservoirs in the bottom of the pan.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

When i was running my 50 ford pickup i did a complete overhaul of the engine bored cylinders new lifters and valves and so on i filled the engine with 15/40 union 76 oil same as what went in all the trucks in the fleet at work that was 20 years ago and that truck is still running. I think you are over thinking this oil thing back in the day the owner had little choices for oil as long as you get something with molly in it for what your doing with the truck it should be ok. I read a web sight about can am spyders and if people were all in one place there would be a fistfight over what oil to run in their spyders same thing on the Harley Davidson sights. Just remember oil back then was not the oil we use today. At cat school i spent some time on oils for engines and hydraulics cat called for 10w. in the winter months and 30 w. in the summer months. Cleveland brothers used Drydene brand oils. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...