Jump to content

675 in a b -42


davehummell
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a chance to get a low mile 675 engine I haven't seen the plate to tell what year but I want spin on oil filters. Now I am thinking about putting it in my b 42 to replace the old 673 .I am looking for info. on the whole job . I am going down to the mack show if anyone has this setup I would like to see it. I have a duplex will this work ok? I have pulled loads with the 675  and this is just a single axle flatbed it should run along fairly well. How bout you freightrain  was there any little parts that was a pain to get?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bolts right in a diesel truck.  Not sure what will need changed in a gasser chassis?

Mine was '69-ish vintage approximately.  Just a guess.

Mine had spin on filters already, I thought all 237's would have?  Or not?  Not that familiar.
Had to refab the exhaust to fit, no biggie.  Had to refab the intake pipe to fit turbo, no biggie.

What duplex?  Lightweight version?(gasser).  I would not suggest using those little boxes with a 237.  Find a big box or convert the truck to work with the std maxitorque 5 spd.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Was the B42 already switched to the 673 engine, if so I think you have to use the front crank hub off the 673 and water pump,  they have to set closer to the engine block or they will hit the radiator mount and the radiator.    terry:MackLogo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the duplex is a 72 series it will work fine with a 237, just keep the RPMs in the higher range, them series of trans. do not like a lot of lugging which that engine is noted for.  I ran a quad behind a 237 for years in a dump truck without any problems, but I was the only one that drove it.    terry :MackLogo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I stuffed a 675 in the old Draggin' Wagon. Check oil pan front bolts - If 1/2" hex head, replace with socket head bolts so you can get the pan off if necessary. The gap between front of oil pan and cross member ain't enough to get socket in to bolts. The channel shaped steel that is bolted between the rear spring hangers of front springs will have to be shimmed down about 1" so it doesn't hit the pan. The left hand starter will be a SOB to change due to steering column so don't put an old worn out starter on it. I changed to a pull clutch which required a bunch of fabricating which I have tried successfully to forget.

Now, the water pump ------------ from my experience ----------------- well, really, I said the hell with chasing water pumps since my 673 pump was not shaped correctly, threw the fan in the trash (I didn't want to listen to it anyway) and put cooling fans in front of radiator (and junked the shutters). I'm sure there were other things that I'll remember soon as I submit this but that is enough to start with.

Plumbing up turbo was fun - I like to cut and weld stuff. Lucked into a rubber angle adaptor from God knows what to hook on to air inlet in fire wall. Also for the outlet side of turbo, I found a 90 degree adapter off IH school bus that looks like it belongs on this mess. My original turbo was passing a little oil and replaced with updated rebuilt unit. That really improved boost psi especially after replacing all manifold gaskets it blew out.

Seems like I had trouble with throttle linkage length but forget what. Probably just little cutting and welding cured it - I kinda like to do that anyway.

Enough for now - just one more thing - it made that 18,500 pound hunk of junk FLY!!!!!!!!! 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bell housing bolts in your old 10 speed duplex, lets hope its a 72 series might be 3/8 the. 237's have 7/16ths bolts. no biggie just drill them out. if you have a 67 series trans, your screwed, sounds like someone already did the hard work. radiator crossmember needs to be shimmed 1/4 inch for the diesel engine balancer, you need the 673 waterpump and  crank hub also. throttle linkage might work but its a crap shoot and the exhaust and intake tubing is at your own design

post-6-0-64947600-1408238925_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I musta got real lucky, as I didn't have to cut or modify much of anything?  Everything pretty much bolted right back in place.

Didn't notice anything about the oil pan bolts?  Might take a look now(not that I can do anything if I can't get to them). 

I guess it depends on which injection pump you have/had, as it of the linkage will bolt right up.  Mine were identical and nothing needed changing to hook throttle pedal up.

Yes, if you have a 67 size trans, you need to get the 72 sized to be able to survive.  I couldn't say the model numbers earlier(I was at work and brain was fried).

I only bastardized my flywheel because someone had bastardized my crank bolts on the 237.  My 237 came with single disc clutch so everything I had fit fine(including my lower right starter).  If your 237 came with dual disc clutch(and upper left starter), you need to fit and align your single disc bellhousing to allow the use of your original single clutch(and right side starter).

I got some 4" exh tubing and made my own intake tubes.  Pretty simple to fab up.  Unless you can find some rubber elbows and stuff to make it work?

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got up today to look at the engine it is a 285 hp. tip turbine block plate states it is a 1979 engine but it also has a pedigree sticker on the rear valve cover and t676 and 4-85 . Will this fit under my hood with the intercooler mounted the way it is. The guy said he will start it for me on Monday. He has about 5 or 6 675s from real early on up and I seen 2 or 3 two stick trans laying around. I was wondering how heavy this engine would be I know my forklift will lift it but I'm just wondering.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The 285 with the tip turbine/after cooler will fit under the hood.  The air plumbing may need work depending on what you have.  Do you have air from the air cleaner running through the cab or is it direct from the air cleaner through the side of the hood?  No need in having the air restricted.

Weight is at least 2000 lbs depending on how dressed it is.

  • Like 1

Jim

It doesn't cost anything to pay attention.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The air is piped through the cab. I had thought there would be a restriction with the old oil bath filter, I was going to fit up something larger. I do like to tinker I stuffed a 292 worked over chevy engine in a fj45 Toyota very tight fit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...