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'63 B81SX


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Thanks very much.  Original engine was, as I recall, ENDT 673 turbocharged.  When I did engine switch (it's been about 10 yrs) there was talk about the 237 supplying more torque at lower RPM than the original, and that I ought to be especially careful not to lug it down.

Going to teach my son-in-law to drive it, and wanted to start him out on just main box.  

Truck normally not loaded, and I fully agree with your suggestion.

Thanks

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I appreciate the suggestion.  I'm in Kansas, and this unit came from the East Coast somewhere.  Pulling an end dump I imagine, since at one time it had a 5th wheel, I'm told.

Has triple frame, outer layer of which was rotted, so I replaced that, rewired, new paint, had cab redone, new brakes and tires, then installed the Holmes 750.  Wouldn't mind having a higher top end, setting aside the fact that I'd hate to have to stop the truck at those speeds, but so it goes.

What would I look for to replace the pumpkins?

Thanks

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With said slow gearing, skipping gears is fine.  With mine I try to keep it above about 1400 on a hard pull(with my trailer).  Below that the old triplex starts complaining!  You'll feel it start to thump and that's tough on these single countershaft boxes.

 

Bet you can start in 3rd low, 4 lo, then split it up a few.  I only need 2 lo when starting with my trailer.  I have 4.10 gears out back.

IMG-20180116-202556-655.jpg

Larry

1959 B61 Liv'n Large......................

Charter member of the "MACK PACK"

 

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Many thanks, guys.  This thing is so low-geared that it certainly makes sense to just shift the main box, or even skip gears.

There is a very good truck boneyard and parts warehouse out west of Wichita called Southwest Truck Parts, and I'm betting they'll either have it, or know someone else who does.

I'll shoot a pic of the differential housings tomorrow and put it up.

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Our dm686sx used to top out at 47, dad ran it for 15 years that way then it dropped a bearing in one of the differentials so I made him buy a junk yard pair that'd do 60+. Was much better to drive after that, except for the 20k steer axle that felt like you were riding a brick down the road... There's only two highways around us that we drive on and they're both 55mph. We don't need more than 65.

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Sorry for the quality of these pix, but it's dark under there.  

1. Looking at front diff from ahead of axle

0602191515.thumb.jpg.cbcffac71ebbd7cd7d967ea60b32e6e4.jpgrear diff, sho

2. Going into rear diff

0602191514.jpg.4c985cfc6a46d7fc6e78bc658bdb8d65.jpg

3. Looking up at rear diff carrier cover from below

0602191511.jpg.e5a62da4247b556a906934d37b25053c.jpg

The immediate problem I see is getting these chunks in and out without taking the bed off.

Many thanks.

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This is getting interesting.  I'll get those numbers off the rear diff housing tomorrow.  8.27:1 rings a bell from long ago. This truck must have done the real heavy lifting. 

I was a much younger man when I spent a summer mounting and drilling the holes in the new 3rd frame member from the inside out with a 1/2" Makita drill.

I certainly know the cribbing routine; I had the Holmes 750 all cribbed up as I restored that monster, see below.  I live in oil field territory in Kansas, and the local oil field guy brought his big old tandem out to lift the bed onto the truck.  On the left of the picture, I'm getting the Mack positioned to drive under the bed after the crane on the tandem hooks up and lifts it up.  That was exciting.

0218161442.thumb.jpg.4da0a3d59275662c1a2f3b69374e6b96.jpg

Here's another of the finished truck.  Only thing left to do is hook up the 750 to the Mack PTO.

1792112325_0309171502b1.thumb.jpg.4eb8d4a484682e09c93e032fc4a0cf81.jpg

Here's the inside:

mackinsurance8.thumb.jpg.c68674906705fc6158816a5535a91156.jpg

Truck had been sitting for 2 yrs. unused.  Went out Friday and, after charging the batteries, she fired right off.  Had to give it just a little snort of ether, but after that she primed up and got going.

Thanks much.

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It was a lot of fun.  All my buds came down and helped out.  Measured that bed and where it would sit on the Mack about a thousand times.  Notice the fender skirts and flares we installed.  Replaced those rubber flares with stuff that wasn't floppy, and turned out very well.  The stripes on the back end were all hand done by the painter, a young kid.  I was pretty impressed.

0228171612.thumb.jpg.06f6fd60ae035be47a240363ca3e9035.jpg

 

 

0309171502a.jpg

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Hi Day;

I'm looking for a number such as TRQ7220 or just Q7220 or something along those lines.

The 4 24 66 I believe means the transmission case was either cast, (if raised), or manufactured, (if stamped) on that date. Either way it appears to be a replacement transmission.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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Should be on the left side of the main case. About centered. The numbers will be hand stamped; not cast into the case.

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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What size are the tires? Look to be 11X24 from the photos earlier. 

Edited by Rob

Dog.jpg.487f03da076af0150d2376dbd16843ed.jpgPlodding along with no job nor practical application for my existence, but still trying to fix what's broke.

 

 

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1 hour ago, Rob said:

Should be on the left side of the main case. About centered. The numbers will be hand stamped; not cast into the case.

Should be right behind the fill plug.    terry:MackLogo:

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