2000CL713 Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 had a 8-5 code flash the other day. code is for electronic unit pump #5 (2000 CL713 E7-427) what are the reasons for it go bad? are there ways to check the others? should i just replace that one or all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) You can ohm it to a know-good EUP. You can continuity the lines back to the ECM (or firewall) if your up to a light amount of digging. I'd get a PAI (especially if you have no miss, still running, and can order "aftermarket") to replace only the bad unit. Pretty easy day on a truck like yours! Pull the block fitting and drain the block before you pull it, or dump into sump and just change oil. Roll engine to get the EUP cam lobe down to make install easier, pull bolts up equally when loading back into block. Always replace both retaining screws. Record EUP calibration code (on front plate) so you can have code uploaded next time your in the shop. Gently remove EUP roller and inspect. Scissor spread your fingers (or insert a hook pick into roller slot) and gently lower back onto cam lobe without dropping. Check guide indexing pin in wall of EUP bore. Edited October 26, 2017 by Mack Technician 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) If your roller looks like this get ready for a party.....just saying, not jinxing. Edited October 26, 2017 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) Broken EUP springs also an issue and can scribe wall of EUP bore. Good Luck! Edited October 26, 2017 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 29 minutes ago, Mack Technician said: I'd get a PAI (especially if you have no miss, still running, and can order "aftermarket") to replace only the bad unit. Pretty easy day on a truck like yours! i didnt even know it was a problem until the light came on. truck still runs fine. do you have a link or part number for the PAI unit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 313GC5227MX is for your truck (Early ETECH). The 2002-2003 CCRS and 2004-07 AI engines take 313GC5230MX . The AC engine takes 313GC5233MX . The X on the end of any Mack part denotes reman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 44 minutes ago, 2000CL713 said: i didnt even know it was a problem until the light came on. truck still runs fine. do you have a link or part number for the PAI unit? https://www.paiindustries.com/catalog/figurelistPartSearch.php . You enter your Mack number and it will convert it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 The PAI conversion for 313GC5227MX is EM87630. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 thanks for the info guys. i also signed up for the PAI site to search the numbers. i have bought that brand before and it seemed like nice stuff. never engine parts tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) According to my dist an owner/holder of PAI has legal right to the patents and intellectual property of Mack. On certain stuff they buy Mack and re-label. I note about 20-30% lower price as an average. Some dash switches are 50+% less than Mack counter price. No complaints for quality. In fact I know a certain *Cough-* dealership -*ahem* who buys PAI cam replacement kits because Mack no longer does certain kits. Edited October 26, 2017 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 2 hours ago, 2000CL713 said: i didnt even know it was a problem until the light came on. truck still runs fine. Good sign, likely not mechanical fail (spring, follower, cam) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 21 minutes ago, Mack Technician said: Good sign, likely not mechanical fail (spring, follower, cam) Yea. Luckily it happen the day before I had to leave town so it's parked for now. Where do you guys usually buy your PAI stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 (edited) www.skarlupkaservice.com PAI distributors are notorious for thin (or no) stock of parts. PAI is usually a pet project for a bigger sales agenda. Generally they take the order and drop ship direct to you and up-charge any returns for restock. I thought PAI was rinky-dink enough and tried to become a distributor so I could buy parts direct for my moonlighting projects. Shot down! ExpL- Called and confirmed your part, as popular as it is, is not in stock at this dealer. Edited October 26, 2017 by Mack Technician Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted October 26, 2017 Author Share Posted October 26, 2017 After a fast search it seems a alot of people don't stock it. Mine are orignal and never been touched or replaced. Guess I'm going to be calling people and seeing what they have. I haven't priced out one from mack yet either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 26, 2017 Share Posted October 26, 2017 5 hours ago, 2000CL713 said: thanks for the info guys. i also signed up for the PAI site to search the numbers. i have bought that brand before and it seemed like nice stuff. never engine parts tho. When your in the parts x-over click on the little icon of the book (manual) that appears during part search. They have some really nice breakdowns that are easy to interpret, even for disassembly layering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted October 27, 2017 Author Share Posted October 27, 2017 Little update- since the light only came on that one time. Was only one for a little bit. Not even couple hrs. It's never been on before or after that. Should I still replace it or woild it just be a false type thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 Best not to worry about single occasions..........So you hit a large red mud puddle on the iron ore pit haul and soaked the two uninsulated EUP terminals and engine heat dried it out? Not unthinkable? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fullfuel01 Posted October 27, 2017 Share Posted October 27, 2017 can we interchange the EUP from etech to AI and AC? what is the difference? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Im going to be taking each eup out and inspecting them. Does anyone have the part numbers for new o-ring kit and new bolts and retaining screws and whatever else I should replace since I'm doing it. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mack Technician Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 2 hours ago, 2000CL713 said: Im going to be taking each eup out and inspecting them. Does anyone have the part numbers for new o-ring kit and new bolts and retaining screws and whatever else I should replace since I'm doing it. Thanks Use your PAI log-in. It will do the "manual" break down and should give you OE numbers as well as PAI conversion. It's handy for owner operators who DIY. PS- if the little connector screws for wire do not feel like they want to be removed........ better stop and consider if you want to snap it off just to do inspection. They generally do not do well with age. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 I'll give that a shot. Well didn't think of that. I know mine have never been touched so that very well might be a problem. I wanted to inspect them. Man let me tell ya. Those eup have become more of a headache then anything on this truck lol no matter which way I go there is always something lol but luckily the light have never cam back on since then but I would really like to get my eyes on them to see the condition of the insides and put new orings and whatnot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Heat is what kills them. Always make sure you reinstall your heat shields, they are on there for a reason. #5 and 6 seem to go bad first due to the exhaust pipe running right by them. On the AC engine #2 and 3 God bad due to right behind EGR cooler. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000CL713 Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 the only heat shield i have is big stainless one that mounted on the motor. dont think there ever was any other shields for that truck unless im mistaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mackpro Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 Yes , the chrome one that covers the top of the EUP's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtymilkman Posted November 1, 2017 Share Posted November 1, 2017 The O rings used to be ridiculously expensive. Not sure on cost now but I remember 10-12 years ago they were $50 per pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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