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58GreenMackB

1958 B61 3030 Chambers

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Hi all.  I'm in the process of upgrading my original brakes to a 3030 spring brake chamber.  My question is the difference between the various types.  I've seen chambers ranging from $50 all the way up to $200 on Napa's website.  I was curious what the differences are for the price?  Also does anyone have recommendations for good ones to buy for the upgrade?  As always, thanks for everyone's input!

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Have used Black Max.  $55-60 from a Mack Service Dealer.  On a hobby truck with no issues.

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On 9/23/2017 at 5:30 PM, 58GreenMackB said:

Hi all.  I'm in the process of upgrading my original brakes to a 3030 spring brake chamber.  My question is the difference between the various types.  I've seen chambers ranging from $50 all the way up to $200 on Napa's website.  I was curious what the differences are for the price?  Also does anyone have recommendations for good ones to buy for the upgrade?  As always, thanks for everyone's input!

Don't know what kind of chambers you now have, but the 30/30's might be to big to clear.   terry:D

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Thanks for the input.  The original chambers on the truck were type 30, but did not have the spring brakes.

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as far as i know the only difference in a 30/30 is long stroke or short. 

 

id ask if they have both the 50 and the 200 dollar one in stock and see if maybe one seems to be made better than the other if not id save my money and go cheaper. 

 

its been a while sense i have changed a entire chamber i just do half cans or change the diaphragms until the bottom of them rusts out. 

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when I had my own truck I couldn't the diaphrams I put  in the service and park side of the can, now all they know is replace the whole chamber, nobody rebuilds anything anymore.    terry:D

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you can still get the service break diaphrams, there like under 5 bucks to fix a service break leak. the spring break side is "non user serviceable" but you can still buy half cans to fix a spring break leak a lot of places don't stock them anymore  but some still do and they can be ordered anywhere if your not in a hurry cause most people now days just change the entire can. 

 

i don't replace the entire cans cause i am lazy and cheap. its a lot easier to not have to mess with frozen clevis pins and cuting the rod and unbolting the chamber. to replace a service break diaphragm literally takes about 5 mins in a parking lot including digging the tools out of the jockey box. about 2 mins longer for a half can cause you have two air hoses to disconnect and re connect. 

i have bought a new can before took it apart and only installed the back half on my trailer when i had a spring break leak pop up away from home and where i stopped didn't stock half cans, and i didn't want to deal with trying to get the clevis/pins apart and trying to cut the rod to length without power tools/ torch available. 

Edited by Ezrider
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I went to Watt's on this and they straightened me out on what all I needed.  Got a short stroke 30/30 chamber and was lucky enough to get the original clevis yokes off the old Type 30 chambers.  Another question.  Pictured below are my front brakes before I got them relined and new springs.  What tool do you use to put the springs on?  I have seen a couple s-cam tools, but they don't seem like they'd work with these types of shoes.  I do not want to spend money on things that won't work!  Thanks for all the input!

IMG_0013.thumb.JPG.0b57ba6766854830ed28a06bd0ab2677.JPG out

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Roto chambers lot more clearance $$$$

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When I bought  the  BCR,it already  had 2 30/30 chambers  on it with a toggle  valve. I changed  the  toggle  valve to a PP1 parking  brake  valve . The chambers have been trouble-free so far and clearence has not been  an issue. I have been  warned that the spring  pressure  of the parking  brake  chambers may be too much  for the old spiders. So far,so good. Definitely  not a good  match  for aluminium  spiders,though. Being a B -81, I would  highly  doubt, you would  not encounter  that problem.  Used Midland-Berg and  Bendix  air line  schematics sheets to route the system. Not a difficult  job and we'll worth it in the "peace of mind" department.  Springs  go on easier with the shoes backed off  all the way and I  have  used every thing from a tapered lineup punch/crows foot to a home made tool made of  a  piece of  5/16" round  stock win groove  cut in near the end of  it , to hook up the return  springs. Good luck on your  project. Al  

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On 10/28/2017 at 9:38 PM, blackdog2 said:

Roto chambers lot more clearance $$$$

Yeah and a lot of confused looks when you try and get one at your local parts place.

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